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Regardless what many will try and tell you there is only 1. Thermal expansion of the rotor ring. When you get a standard rotor hot the outer ring gets hot and expands more than the rest of the rotor and can warp more easily than when the ring is floating on buttons. This expansion when it happens more pronounced with stainless steel rotors. Cast iron is far far superior to stainless steel in thermal stability and co-efficient of friction but an iron ring or rotor will rust and most hd owners recoil at the thought of an iron disc rotor.
For me, my riding style, and personal opinion only - aesthetics is the only benefit I will see. I have never had an issue with performance of the factory fixed rotors, but threw on a set of the HD floating (semi-floating from what I read here) because they looked better against my fat spoke wheels.
My guess is that if your riding style warranted floating rotors you would know. But again, that's just my personal opinion as I've never ridden a bike with true floating rotors. Maybe I'm missing out and don't realize it.
Maybe xtrracer is right...there is ONLY 1. Maybe he knows better than an actual company that produces them.
There are several reasons that a two-piece floating disc assembly is of benefit. First, by using an aluminum bell for the hub section of the disc saves a great deal of weight. Since this is both rotating and unsprung, it benefits the acceleration, braking, and handling of the vehicle. Secondly, it is better able to handle the large temperature changes that a brake disc experiences. During severe use, temperature variances become present in a one-piece disc and generally cause warping of the disc. This not only results in vibration of the vehicle, and pulsing of the brake pedal, but also pushes the pistons farther away from the disc. In a two-piece floating disc assembly, the iron disc heats up more uniformly, and the controlled float which is present allows for the differential expansion of the very hot brake disc, and the relatively cool aluminum bell. This allows the disc to be used under severe conditions without having a detrimental effect.
Last edited by DBLXX; Mar 20, 2014 at 05:30 PM.
Reason: xx
I believe they also "self centre" allowing for more even wear and contact area with pads. Floating rotors have a tendency to rattle when brakes are not applied.
The simple answer is they are less prone to warping. You'll find many threads about riders complaining about stock rotors warping. Usually happens when you have hot rotors come in contact with water.
Thanks all for the great input (Mr.Grumpy Pants that was funny !!!) Looking at rotors because mine were fine at the last ride this past fall (live in mass.) and when I took it out for a quick blast last weekend when I hit the front brake it felt like a radial tire with a shifted belt. My thought is, that I should have pushed the pistons back on the calipers to take the pressure off the rotor for the winter. Any thoughts on this theory?
Oh ya the pistons are free and the caliper slides Ok.
Thanks all for the great input (Mr.Grumpy Pants that was funny !!!) Looking at rotors because mine were fine at the last ride this past fall (live in mass.) and when I took it out for a quick blast last weekend when I hit the front brake it felt like a radial tire with a shifted belt. My thought is, that I should have pushed the pistons back on the calipers to take the pressure off the rotor for the winter. Any thoughts on this theory?
Oh ya the pistons are free and the caliper slides Ok.
Never heard of anyone pushing caliper pistons back just for winter storage. I'm very certain that would not affect the condition of your rotor. You will have to be more detailed on your problem. Are you getting a pulsation in the brake lever when braking? If so, that is a sure sign of rotor warping. If it was fine before storage then I would just remove the calipers and do a good cleaning.
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