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My local HD dealer will not install anything that that don't order or you buy from them. In most cases they will try to get you to install SE products which is not a bad thing. if it were me I would use S & S products, they offer the quickie rods cams everything and have been around forever or let the dealer do it with SE products.
I guess that makes sense in the case of motor components because they can become familiar with one vendors products (MOCO), and how they work together. And hopefully do the job correctly and warranty their work.
I spent most my life turning wrenches, and can say if you wanted work on something and provided your own parts, the only guarantee you would get is for my work, if I screwed up. any part failure be on you.
You don't bring your bacon and eggs to IHOP for them to cook.
AMEN! By trade I am an auto tech and it used to drive me crazy when people brought their own parts in. Then they would complain when I adjusted my labor rate upwards to reflect the loss of revenue from the parts sales. My shop still had fixed expenses I had to cover, but apparently the neandthals that asked couldn't grasp the concept that the building they were standing in, with the lights, the phone, the computer, and the heat had to be paid for somehow. That is minimal to the times people asked for advice on how to repair something. I would say, does it cost you to go to the doctor only to find out all you have is a cold?
Ok, off my soapbox and back to our regularly scheduled thread.
You will need in addition to allen, socket and combination wrenches. A good torque wrench, I used both inch lb and foot lb types, assembly lube, cam bearing puller and installation tool. As well as a gasket set. Also needed are a bolt cutter, lge paper clips and rubber bands( to hold the push rod tubes up when cutting the pushrods), and whatever device you decide to use to hold the lifters up and out of the way unless you are replacing them too. Most important, have a service manual handy!
I would add blue loctite, new o-rings for the oil pump and cam plate, new exhaust donut gaskets, and a dial indicator to check crankshaft runout. For chain drive just to know for gear drive a neccessity.
Ok I've been talking to my guy about the s&s 510s and he says that's the way to go. Anyone have any idea about these? I don't want to race and am look for power from idle to 40000.
The big reason to go with S&S cams is Easy-starts do not need compression releases. Your 103 already has them. Andrews 57s are my "go to" in stage 1 103s.
I have S&S 510's on my 09 street glide.
I have been very happy with them. Good smooth power curve and they increased the sound out of the exhaust. My dyno is in my albums on my home page.
My 510's do not have the easy start feature.
I have no regrets on the 510's but if I was to do it again I think I would hook up with Jamie at fuel moto and let him dial me in with a total package.
Last edited by Bagged Out; Mar 29, 2014 at 11:41 PM.
FWIW. With easy start cams you cant do a compression test or a leak down test because the exh valves are propped open. Id. E worried that that extra piece of metal would dislodge someday and wreak havoc.
can clean engine oil be used instead of assembly lube?
thanks
mirrmu
The concept of an assembly lube is to provide maximum protection against friction until the oil pressure has come up and flowed to all areas. On a new build, this can take a couple to ten or more seconds depending on a number of factors. So short answer is yes, but a film of oil will not protect like an assembly lube for the critical first minute of startup. YMMV, but for the 10.00 it will cost for a tube or tub of lube, it ain't worth it.
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