Air baffle question on Road King
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 285
Likes: 3
From: Portland OR
Air baffle question on Road King
Hey everyone when i ride with the shield the air comes up so hard it blows my shirt up and my glasses.
I stopped by the good ole stealorship and bought anf front wheel air baffle and took it home to install.
The fork has 3 pre drilled holes and so does the baffle but I only got 2 screws. Also after I thread the screws 2/3 spins its super tight and it doesnt feel right becasue theres still a lot left to screw in.
Anyone else have this issue? Should I just crank it down and why only 2 screws. Thanks for the feedback!
Part# 58520-79tc
I stopped by the good ole stealorship and bought anf front wheel air baffle and took it home to install.
The fork has 3 pre drilled holes and so does the baffle but I only got 2 screws. Also after I thread the screws 2/3 spins its super tight and it doesnt feel right becasue theres still a lot left to screw in.
Anyone else have this issue? Should I just crank it down and why only 2 screws. Thanks for the feedback!
Part# 58520-79tc
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
The -79 of the part number indicates that this part has been around since 1979. It's only in recent years that H-D has left it off their Touring bikes! My 1990 bike came with one when new and has three screws, however that part doesn't take much load, so I reckon two will be enough.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
the holes can be "chased" with a 1/4" -20 tap to clean out the paint.
if you don't have one, use a grade 8 bolt the same size and thread pitch.
start the bolt and when you get resistance, go forward a 1/4 turn, then back an 1/8.
work it through this way...slowly.
the reason for the grade 8 is that it is hardened and won't break off.
with the wind- the bigger the hole you try to punch through, the bigger and deeper the low pressure zone is behind the windscreen.
so air rushes to fill the low pressure zone from the sides, below, above and behind.
you may be more comfy with a smaller windscreen...lesser pressure differential...less uncontrolled air
mike
if you don't have one, use a grade 8 bolt the same size and thread pitch.
start the bolt and when you get resistance, go forward a 1/4 turn, then back an 1/8.
work it through this way...slowly.
the reason for the grade 8 is that it is hardened and won't break off.
with the wind- the bigger the hole you try to punch through, the bigger and deeper the low pressure zone is behind the windscreen.
so air rushes to fill the low pressure zone from the sides, below, above and behind.
you may be more comfy with a smaller windscreen...lesser pressure differential...less uncontrolled air
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; May 3, 2014 at 11:51 AM.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 285
Likes: 3
From: Portland OR
Mike
Man Mike you have been helping me for years now! Thank you that worked, I actually do run and smaller shield its a LRS shiled and its 18 inches I belive.
I dont usually run the shield but when i do man its hard air coming up-
Speaking of shileds- The new vented shield is available- Its the one of the Road King CVO- What has me bothered is its only 16 inches.
I tried a 16 inch LRS and returned it for a bigger size because of the buffeting was so extreme I wonder if the vents on the new shield eliminates that buffeting.. Dont understand why the size is 16 inches when most stock sheilds are 20 or 21 inches..
Any thoughts?
I dont usually run the shield but when i do man its hard air coming up-
Speaking of shileds- The new vented shield is available- Its the one of the Road King CVO- What has me bothered is its only 16 inches.
I tried a 16 inch LRS and returned it for a bigger size because of the buffeting was so extreme I wonder if the vents on the new shield eliminates that buffeting.. Dont understand why the size is 16 inches when most stock sheilds are 20 or 21 inches..
Any thoughts?
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
they are trying to decrease the difference in pressure between the air being forced off the windscreen and the "hole" in the cockpit.
same idea with the mail slot- decrease the pressure differential and control some of the air.
on my batwing fairing bike I use the adjustable type deflectors as "scoops" to channel air into the cockpit
when you ride, move your hand around to feel where the air is coming from and how strong
mike
same idea with the mail slot- decrease the pressure differential and control some of the air.
on my batwing fairing bike I use the adjustable type deflectors as "scoops" to channel air into the cockpit
when you ride, move your hand around to feel where the air is coming from and how strong
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; May 1, 2014 at 06:04 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 6,160
Likes: 2,568
From: CT/FL
So, did the baffle make a difference?
FWIW Clearview Shields sells vented road king windshields in all sizes.
FWIW Clearview Shields sells vented road king windshields in all sizes.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,416
Likes: 88
From: San Quirino, Italy
I have the Clearview vented shield. It does make a difference but not as much as getting the right height. I don't use the baffle anymore. Didn't seem to help and makes the engine run hotter (or so I have heard...). I do have fork lowers. I have better wind protection overall (other than my hands) than any of my buddies with batwings...It's calm and quiet behind my set up...
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,747
Likes: 47
From: Central Florida
Hey everyone when i ride with the shield the air comes up so hard it blows my shirt up and my glasses.
I stopped by the good ole stealorship and bought anf front wheel air baffle and took it home to install.
The fork has 3 pre drilled holes and so does the baffle but I only got 2 screws. Also after I thread the screws 2/3 spins its super tight and it doesnt feel right becasue theres still a lot left to screw in.
Anyone else have this issue? Should I just crank it down and why only 2 screws. Thanks for the feedback!
Part# 58520-79tc
I stopped by the good ole stealorship and bought anf front wheel air baffle and took it home to install.
The fork has 3 pre drilled holes and so does the baffle but I only got 2 screws. Also after I thread the screws 2/3 spins its super tight and it doesnt feel right becasue theres still a lot left to screw in.
Anyone else have this issue? Should I just crank it down and why only 2 screws. Thanks for the feedback!
Part# 58520-79tc
Yes, 2 screws is correct. They should have come chromed. I sprayed a little bike cleaner or WD inside the holes just to lube em up. Anyway, YES, they are hard to get in if never installed before. Just make sure you start them straight and not cross threaded and they will go. I bought my first Harley in 2000 and it was a Road King. It came with a stock, black baffle. Of course I had to change that out for a chrome one. Now they don't even put one on. Oh well.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,824
Likes: 603
From: Myrtle Beach SC
Yea I put one on my RK, and you do usually have to chase those threads with a 1/4 20 tap then they go in nice and easy. I wonder if it's because the holes are drilled and tapped by MoCo before they powdercoat the frame.