2004 Road King Classic "click of death"?
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Stage IV
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 4
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From: Ohio
2004 Road King Classic "click of death"?
I have recently joined this forum and enjoy reading all the discussions.
I recently have had trouble starting my bike and receive the clicking noise when pushing the starter button. I have had my battery confirmed good, and have replaced the starter relay on the left side of the bike, but have not replaced the ignition keyswitch relay underneath the seat. I have checked some of the cables and all the connections are tight.
Does my starter need to be replaced?
I recently have had trouble starting my bike and receive the clicking noise when pushing the starter button. I have had my battery confirmed good, and have replaced the starter relay on the left side of the bike, but have not replaced the ignition keyswitch relay underneath the seat. I have checked some of the cables and all the connections are tight.
Does my starter need to be replaced?
Last edited by KAIMI_PUEO; May 13, 2014 at 01:29 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,072
Likes: 1,124
From:
I have recently joined this forum and enjoy reading all the discussions.
I recently have trouble starting and receive the clicking noise when pushing the starter button. I have had my battery confimred good, and have replaced the starter relay on the left side of the bike, but have not replaced the ignition keyswitch relay underneath the seat. I have checked some of the cables and all the connections are tight.
Does my starter need to be replaced?
I recently have trouble starting and receive the clicking noise when pushing the starter button. I have had my battery confimred good, and have replaced the starter relay on the left side of the bike, but have not replaced the ignition keyswitch relay underneath the seat. I have checked some of the cables and all the connections are tight.
Does my starter need to be replaced?
To better facilitate a response consider adding miles, modifications and exactly what tests have been performed.
For example: 2004 road king classic, stock pipes & air filter with 40,000 miles.
No fuel adder like a power commander.
Bike is well kept, garage etc.
Your history of ownership.
How old is the problem.
More examples: Battery is 4 years old and has been load tested..not just tested for voltage.
The battery cables are tight at the positive and negative and also at the frame(ground) and starter(positive post on starter).
Maybe you conducted a voltage test while trying to crank with a digital voltage meter?
Since we can not see, hear or touch the more information received the more accurate a response you may receive.
For example many forget that the trigger wire is right on the side of the starter..a paper clip to the trigger wire and post will by-pass the starter switch and also the key switch. CAUTION DANGER the starter will spin and if bike is in gear it will role forward.
Last edited by im; May 12, 2014 at 01:01 PM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,457
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From:
I have the same intermittent issue on my 06. Everything has been gone over, twice, and no issues found from the handlebar to the starter and everything in between.
It's annoying, but it's never not started.
It's annoying, but it's never not started.
Thread Starter
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Stage IV
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 4
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From: Ohio
Bike information update
04' Road King Classic, Thundermaxx ECM, Freedom Performance Ture Duals, V&N breather, 27K, battery load tested at the local auto store. I conducted a test with a volt meter when it did start and was pulling over 14 when reving, current battery not started pulls 12.
Tried the paperclip trick and still get clicking noise.
Tried the paperclip trick and still get clicking noise.
Last edited by KAIMI_PUEO; May 12, 2014 at 02:16 PM. Reason: update
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Stage IV
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From: Ohio
mp4 file
Unable to attach an mp4 file so I zipped it but not sure if it can be played, so this is a test.
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
to trouble shoot- do this:
run a jumper wire from the battery + to the solenoid terminal where the green wire attaches.
the starter should turn- make sure you are in neutral.
this by passes the starter relay, switch, ign switch and all wiring ( the starter "primary circuit" )
if the solenoid closes and the starter runs- then you know that part of the system is working.
if at any time the solenoid chatters- that means that voltage is low, whether the battery is low or the cables have resistance...can even be the frame ground connection ( your model may have a ground strap from inner primary to frame).
or that the solenoid contact disk is carboned up- it can be rebuilt as easily as a chevy.
it is possible the starter motor needs fixed- cutting the commutator with a hacksaw blade takes an hour and will add 5 years or more to the starter's life
refer to the service manual
if AT ANY TIME the starter whines and does not turn- let go the button- the motor winding are burning.
so that covers the 'secondary" starter circuit.
the primary circuit is the switches, wiring and relay ( basically everything between the battery and the green wire that attaches to the solenoid.)
these are checked just bey being methodical.
switches can get dirty and intermittent so this can take awhile.
some guys give up and just get a push button replacement end cover for the solenoid ( $30)- a quick and elegant fix
mike
run a jumper wire from the battery + to the solenoid terminal where the green wire attaches.
the starter should turn- make sure you are in neutral.
this by passes the starter relay, switch, ign switch and all wiring ( the starter "primary circuit" )
if the solenoid closes and the starter runs- then you know that part of the system is working.
if at any time the solenoid chatters- that means that voltage is low, whether the battery is low or the cables have resistance...can even be the frame ground connection ( your model may have a ground strap from inner primary to frame).
or that the solenoid contact disk is carboned up- it can be rebuilt as easily as a chevy.
it is possible the starter motor needs fixed- cutting the commutator with a hacksaw blade takes an hour and will add 5 years or more to the starter's life
refer to the service manual
if AT ANY TIME the starter whines and does not turn- let go the button- the motor winding are burning.
so that covers the 'secondary" starter circuit.
the primary circuit is the switches, wiring and relay ( basically everything between the battery and the green wire that attaches to the solenoid.)
these are checked just bey being methodical.
switches can get dirty and intermittent so this can take awhile.
some guys give up and just get a push button replacement end cover for the solenoid ( $30)- a quick and elegant fix
mike
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,072
Likes: 1,124
From:
04' Road King Classic, Thundermaxx ECM, Freedom Performance Ture Duals, V&N breather, 27K, battery load tested at the local auto store. I conducted a test with a volt meter when it did start and was pulling over 14 when reving, current battery not started pulls 12.
Tried the paperclip trick and still get clicking noise.
Tried the paperclip trick and still get clicking noise.
Your battery is dead.
12.6 volts 100% charged.
12.06 volts 50% charged.
11.9 volts 40% charged.
Blind verdict...battery **** the bed.
Charge battery with a real charger and retest again.
If battery is over 4 years old it probably has a bad cell.
The 14 volts when revving indicates that system is charging.