Clutch Grab
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 118
Likes: 2
From: Utah
So I wonder if the oil is the problem. Usually I just run Amsoil 20w-50 in all 3 sections of the motor, but this spring I put Amsoil ATF Super Shift in the primary. Anyone had problems with Super Shift?
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
you could have a fluid compatibilty problem
you may want to pose your specific question to amsoil since they made both
the friction disks absorb fluid.
when you took it in, the frictions disks had the Rotella absorbed and the clutch basket probably held 4 oz or so of Rotella.
( remember for many friction disks, the instructions are to soak the disks in the lube for hours before install and use)
they added syn3 and possible that they are not compatible- a film could form on the surface of the disks.
when you refilled with rotella, the friction disks were happier.
riders who take bikes to the dealer, should also take fluids in if they are using other than HD fluids.
mike
you may want to pose your specific question to amsoil since they made both
the friction disks absorb fluid.
when you took it in, the frictions disks had the Rotella absorbed and the clutch basket probably held 4 oz or so of Rotella.
( remember for many friction disks, the instructions are to soak the disks in the lube for hours before install and use)
they added syn3 and possible that they are not compatible- a film could form on the surface of the disks.
when you refilled with rotella, the friction disks were happier.
riders who take bikes to the dealer, should also take fluids in if they are using other than HD fluids.
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Jun 19, 2014 at 03:35 PM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
...and of course beyond the fluid idea, it could be that you have glazing or warping of the "steels", the steel plates between the friction disks.
if they get glazed or warped from heat ( usually from the clutch being allowed to slip/ maladjusted) then the clutch action will be inconstant
many of us get many 10's of thousands of miles from a properly maintained and adjusted clutch.
others have problems
mike
if they get glazed or warped from heat ( usually from the clutch being allowed to slip/ maladjusted) then the clutch action will be inconstant
many of us get many 10's of thousands of miles from a properly maintained and adjusted clutch.
others have problems
mike
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 14
From: Seattle
the friction disks absorb fluid.
when you took it in, the frictions disks had the Rotella absorbed and the clutch basket probably held 4 oz or so of Rotella.
( remember for many friction disks, the instructions are to soak the disks in the lube for hours before install and use)
they added syn3 and possible that they are not compatible- a film could form on the surface of the disks.
when you refilled with rotella, the friction disks were happier.
riders who take bikes to the dealer, should also take fluids in if they are using other than HD fluids.
mike
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
why?
the dealer will tend to think inside the box.
unexpected 'surprises' by the owner will be a...surprise.
the dealer techs have a narrower frame of reference and training.
in a way, this is why some dealers decline to work on modified or older machines- so much has been changed that results are not predictable.
even fasteners- imagine the tech who has to deal with some bike that the owner has changed all the fasteners so that each time the tech reaches for a tool it doesn;t fit what is on the bike- this adds time to the job.
Or if the owner has stripped primary bolts and shoved them back in smeared with silicone ( seen this)
at some point ( gray area) the owner who changes a bunch of stuff needs to be responsible for the knock-on effects of those changes.
mike
the dealer will tend to think inside the box.
unexpected 'surprises' by the owner will be a...surprise.
the dealer techs have a narrower frame of reference and training.
in a way, this is why some dealers decline to work on modified or older machines- so much has been changed that results are not predictable.
even fasteners- imagine the tech who has to deal with some bike that the owner has changed all the fasteners so that each time the tech reaches for a tool it doesn;t fit what is on the bike- this adds time to the job.
Or if the owner has stripped primary bolts and shoved them back in smeared with silicone ( seen this)
at some point ( gray area) the owner who changes a bunch of stuff needs to be responsible for the knock-on effects of those changes.
mike
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 118
Likes: 2
From: Utah
I just got a note back from Amsoil and this is what they said:
"...some clutches are more tempermental than others and some will be more grabby with a fluid like the supershift that has no friction modifiers in it. This fluid is used a lot in drag racing transmissions for it's better clutch pack hook up. Out of the over one hundred bikers that I have sold this fluid to there has only been 2 or 3 that didn't like it and they went back to either Amsoil 20w 50 or whatever fluid they used in the past. Let me know how it works for you after going back to another fluid. it doesn't hurt to go back and forth with fluids in your primary."
So I'll swap out the ATF with 20w-50 and see if that helps. If the problem persists, then it's probably plates. I had just under 100,000 miles on my 03 EG and never a problem so I'm thinking it's the ATF. I ran 20w-50 in my 03 primary for 8 years.
"...some clutches are more tempermental than others and some will be more grabby with a fluid like the supershift that has no friction modifiers in it. This fluid is used a lot in drag racing transmissions for it's better clutch pack hook up. Out of the over one hundred bikers that I have sold this fluid to there has only been 2 or 3 that didn't like it and they went back to either Amsoil 20w 50 or whatever fluid they used in the past. Let me know how it works for you after going back to another fluid. it doesn't hurt to go back and forth with fluids in your primary."
So I'll swap out the ATF with 20w-50 and see if that helps. If the problem persists, then it's probably plates. I had just under 100,000 miles on my 03 EG and never a problem so I'm thinking it's the ATF. I ran 20w-50 in my 03 primary for 8 years.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Advanced
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 72
Likes: 1
From: Waynesville NC
I have the same problem. I just bought a 2012 SG and noticed this happening. I have no way of knowing what oil was ran in to before. Bought it from a dealer and they just serviced it. Any suggestions on what oil to try?
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
you look for signs of heat damage; discolouration, glazing or grooves
check for warping by laying on a sheet of glass and check around the edges with a feeler gauge.
if you are going to try to get all the old fluid out...roll the front tire up on a 2x4, then set bike on jiffy ( make sure it's secure), use a zip tie to hold the clutch lever, remove drain plug....let drain over night.
in the morning, start the bike for a few minutes and work the clutch to 'spin" any remaining fluid out of the clutch basket. ( derby cover in place or you'll have a mess!)
go have coffee while the dregs drain out.
refill on a dry clutch is 45 oz, the closer you get to that on refill, the more you know the old stuff is out.
mike
check for warping by laying on a sheet of glass and check around the edges with a feeler gauge.
if you are going to try to get all the old fluid out...roll the front tire up on a 2x4, then set bike on jiffy ( make sure it's secure), use a zip tie to hold the clutch lever, remove drain plug....let drain over night.
in the morning, start the bike for a few minutes and work the clutch to 'spin" any remaining fluid out of the clutch basket. ( derby cover in place or you'll have a mess!)
go have coffee while the dregs drain out.
refill on a dry clutch is 45 oz, the closer you get to that on refill, the more you know the old stuff is out.
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Jun 20, 2014 at 09:27 PM.