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Snapped another p139 polychain

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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 09:43 AM
  #31  
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God, some of you are so fricking old! There was a song.... I can't drive 55!!!!!

That being said, you cant ride the bike a whole lot harder than I ride my 120r. I LOVE 'get a new rear tire time"... hehehe Last time I had a dealer change tires, I popped it in the dealer's parking lot.

I'm thinking it's something to do with riding with effed up geometry.

Dude, don't kid yourself... You don't ride THAT hard to break a belt every 2k. And a FM 107 blah blah blah is not all that powerful. Hi Compression 124s run belts all the time and those guys don't ride like old men either. Something is amiss. I would get rid of the ghetto suspension set up. Another question is WHY would you run shorter gearing on a 2011 bike? I agree with running the 31.

Another thing... belt technology has really changed since folks were riding Shovels and Evos.
 

Last edited by wurk_truk; Jun 18, 2014 at 10:01 AM.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 11:18 AM
  #32  
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not properly aligned.. buddy of mine with a big motor build (ironically enough a Roadie too) had the same issue. 3 belts and the dealers kept telling him too much motor for a belt.. until the 4th time when he brought it to mancuso and the tech realized the sprocket was out of alignment. 30K+ later and that belt it still on there.
 

Last edited by UltraNutZ; Jun 18, 2014 at 11:28 AM.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 07:26 PM
  #33  
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Had me a good talk with Frank, from Drago's today. We had a chat about how the belt ratchets on the newer bikes with the rubber mounted pulley's, and how rubber mounting a chain works fine, but belts won't take it.
Makes perfect sense to me.
Regardless of what the issue is (100%), I love the way the lowered bike looks and I know it ain't the most powerful thing on the street, but the thing eats belts like they are candies. Frank has got MY answer.
I will be ordering his chain drive system.

Thank to everyone that offered advice and opinions. I truly appreciate it.
D
 
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 08:59 PM
  #34  
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I thought about this all day at work. With the lowered suspension, the new mid point will no longer be the longest point the belt can reach. If you adjust the belt right where it now naturally sits, it can become tighter when it reaches the old natural point. I'm thinking the geometry of the rear swing arm has a bit of slack at upper most and lower most travel. Not much, but some. If that is the case, then with the bike way lowered, your swing arm will be in an area, while it just sits there that a stock bike rarely sees. WIth me? Those guys that sell the lowering kits can't be complete dummies and I feel the lowering should work if care is taken in the complete set up. Call THEM up and ask. If it is a known issue, they should tell you. If it is not a know issue, you will need to find the issue at hand before you end up snapping a chain.

Go find another bike like yours. Measure the rear shocks mounts from pin to pin. Go home and jack your bike up to that same height (try to measure from same spots you used on the other bike.) and then adjust the belt. Take it off of the jack and go ride and see what happens. Worse case would be you snap another belt, right? Better case would be belt lasts.

Frank is way cool, and if this doesn't work, go with him. I trust him 100%.

On a 2011 bike, there really isn't any engine adjustments like there was 08 and down... it simply is what it is.
 

Last edited by wurk_truk; Jun 18, 2014 at 09:07 PM.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 10:02 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by heavyd460
Guys, what the hell am I doing wrong?
2011 Road Glide, FM 107, 10.5:1, zippers 577cams, FM "B"heads. Bike has the Burly slammer kit in it (Maybe changing the geometry too much?)
I love this gearing (30T tranny output), but changing a belt every 2000miles is retarded. I am constantly checking my tension (with the proper tool), there is no discerning wear on either sprocket.....I'm seriously thinking of going to a chain.
I do drive the bike harder than most...alot of burn outs, and hard launches. I know gates are the best belts out there, and a lot of guys have a lot bigger builds than mine. I just have never had this kind of trouble with belts, since I've changed out the tranny sprocket. I have had similar builds without the sprocket change, and I've driven the bikes just as hard...if not harder than this RG,and have never had these issues with stock belts
What's the answer.....I'm effin stumped!!!
Lots of burnouts and hard launches you say? How much do you weight heavyd? Tell me you don't weight in at a portly 460.
How long does the belt last if you don't do all the burnouts?
 

Last edited by texaswiz; Jun 18, 2014 at 10:04 PM.
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 10:47 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by ssgunny
Agreed. First thing usually to go in a Fbody is the clutch or 10 bolt rearend when using sticky tires and dumping the clutch even on stock power.
Originally Posted by wurk_truk
I thought about this all day at work. With the lowered suspension, the new mid point will no longer be the longest point the belt can reach. If you adjust the belt right where it now naturally sits, it can become tighter when it reaches the old natural point. I'm thinking the geometry of the rear swing arm has a bit of slack at upper most and lower most travel. Not much, but some. If that is the case, then with the bike way lowered, your swing arm will be in an area, while it just sits there that a stock bike rarely sees. WIth me? Those guys that sell the lowering kits can't be complete dummies and I feel the lowering should work if care is taken in the complete set up. Call THEM up and ask. If it is a known issue, they should tell you. If it is not a know issue, you will need to find the issue at hand before you end up snapping a chain.

Go find another bike like yours. Measure the rear shocks mounts from pin to pin. Go home and jack your bike up to that same height (try to measure from same spots you used on the other bike.) and then adjust the belt. Take it off of the jack and go ride and see what happens. Worse case would be you snap another belt, right? Better case would be belt lasts.

Frank is way cool, and if this doesn't work, go with him. I trust him 100%.

On a 2011 bike, there really isn't any engine adjustments like there was 08 and down... it simply is what it is.
Wurk truk,
I appreciate your insite. I also agree with you about the adjustment. Worth a try. I have thought about that as well.
It is a heavy bike, and I ain't a small fellow (6'4" - 265). I do drive the bike hard. Like I stated earlier, I have never encountered these problems before with soft tails or dynas. This is the first bagger I've built, and after talking with Frank today, it just all made sense. The way the belt ratchets on a hard launch it is bound to break. I got home, headed out to the garage and looked at the last belt under a large lighted magnifying glass, and the tell tale signs are there. This is exactly what's happening. All I gotta do is make this one last 4-6 wks, until Franks new set up is available, and I'm all good.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 10:57 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by texaswiz
Lots of burnouts and hard launches you say? How much do you weight heavyd? Tell me you don't weight in at a portly 460.
How long does the belt last if you don't do all the burnouts?
Hahahahaha.....I do not weigh 460lbs. If I drive like the law is following me, a belt would probably last forever......but what the $u@k fun would that be. I built this thing, because in my mind, nothing is cooler than a bagger that rips. I don't mind spending the money, or doing the work (although there are plenty of things I would rather be doing than changing a belt). I'm just tired of changing belts....I do have it down to roughly 5 hrs though.

Drago's is MY answer.

Thanks again guys!
D
 
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 11:07 PM
  #38  
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You will be happy with a chain, I've broke belts with a 95 and my stock 96, with my 107 I baby it in the low gears- that tow ride back home sucks!
 
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