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Curved Plate Install

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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 04:45 PM
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Default Curved Plate Install

I tried a search but could not find the answer to my question. I just installed a curved plate on my 2013 Road Glide. Where do you need to install the longer thin bumpers? I attached a couple of pics. Harleys instruction sheet is pretty
lame.









 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 06:09 PM
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HD instructions lame?? That's the understatement of the year, lol. I also have a curved bracket to install and threw the instructions to the side this past weekend. Tried to remove the nuts under behind the fender.....how the h*ŁŁ are you supposed to loosen the nuts? I could barely get my hand up in there and when I got a boxed ratchet wrench in here I could only move the wrench back and forth about an inch moving the nut each rotation about 1/8th of a turn. Most of the time the wrench barely stays on the nut.

I don't claim to be a certified mechanic or anything, but I've never had a problem wrenching on my own bike. In fact, I installed this same plate on my last SG a couple of years ago and don't remember having this hard of a time. After working at it for about 45 minutes I gave up and retightened the only nut I was working at and moved on to installing my Daymaker Reflector headlight, mid-frame air deflectors and floorboard extensions. Had all three of those done in an hour and a half.

But I believe the rubber bumpers is to install behind the plate anywhere it may make contact with your fender. I just ditched them on my last bike because the plate had plenty of clearance and never touched.
 

Last edited by Roger That; Jul 28, 2014 at 06:14 PM.
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Roger That
HD instructions lame?? That's the understatement of the year, lol. I also have a curved bracket to install and threw the instructions to the side this past weekend. Tried to remove the nuts under behind the fender.....how the h*ŁŁ are you supposed to loosen the nuts? I could barely get my hand up in there and when I got a boxed ratchet wrench in here I could only move the wrench back and forth about an inch moving the nut each rotation about 1/8th of a turn. Most of the time the wrench bareley stays on the nut.

I don't claim to be a certified mechanic or anything, but I've never had a problem wrenching on my own bike. In fact, I installed this same plate on my last SG a couple of years ago and don't remember having this hard of a time. After working at it for about 45 minutes I gave up and retightened the only nut I was working at and moved on to installing my Daymaker Reflector headlight, mid-frame air deflectors and floorboard extensions. Had all three of those done in an hour and a half.
If you can jack the bike up with a bike lift it makes the job easier. The foam should attach to the rear of the plate frame down low and make contact with the rear fender out of site. Use blue loctite on all mounting bolts/screws.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by HDV-GLIDE
If you can jack the bike up with a bike lift it makes the job easier. The foam should attach to the rear of the plate frame down low and make contact with the rear fender out of site. Use blue loctite on all mounting bolts/screws.
Yeah I need to get another one of those. I have one but the last time I had my bike raised up it was leaning too far to one side and wasn't giving me a warm and fuzzy feeling. I've learned that when I start to get a little frustrated to just move on to something else. I'll give it another try tomorrow.

How involved is it to just remove the tri-bar light below? I'm still waiting for the dealer to get more manuals.
 

Last edited by Roger That; Jul 28, 2014 at 06:27 PM.
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 06:33 PM
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They go on the inside top and bottom of the rear section of the plate bracket to keep the plate itself from rattling and/or making a buzzing noise.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 07:24 PM
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Installed this item a few months back on my 13' RGC. I was unable to use the foam strips as they prevented the four frame screws from being threaded properly. They caused the frame to stick out a bit too much for the small screws to seat properly. Ended up not needing them as the plate and frame don't rattle or rub so I never used them.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 07:35 PM
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Ratchet box wrenches do wonders for those tight areas. I don't like using the foam without putting tape or something over the paint. The foam holds dirt and then acts like sandpaper.

If the plate rattles, cut the foam down to reduce the thickness.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 08:53 PM
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I have the Kury plate which is the same. Even bolted up tight, the bikes vibration causes the plate frame to vibrate and without the foam cushion between the frame and the fender, the mounting bolts will fail at some point. Your bike, your call on the foam.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 09:17 PM
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The thin ones go between the plate and the backing plate to avoid rattles, Mine did not need them
 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 09:35 PM
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It's super easy removing the nuts behind the fender with a ratcheting box wrench and a lift. I installed a SG style license bracket to my turn signal bar (which is practically the same job as the curved plate) in less than an hour.
 
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