removing HD quick install pushrods?
Every procedure I have read or seen tells/shows how to cut the old pushrods out. I recently had engine work done and the HD quick install pushrods (#17997-99A) were installed. However, I am fairly certain there is an issue with the cams being out of time. I'll be performing a compression check when I get home this weekend to test this theory and I am trying to gather as much information in advance as I can. I didn't do the job but I am having to diagnose/fix the issue (and unfortunately there have been several!! grrrr).
Please bear with me if my questions seem stupid, but I forgot to grab the service manual when I left the house so I could read up on the subject. Can the quick install pushrods be uninstalled and re-installed? If so, how do they come out? Are they spring loaded like the S&S ones? If so, I can probably figure it out. If not, do I need to cut these out and start over?
Also, and I almost hate to even ask this question as I'm sure the service manual covers it, does the oil need to be drained before opening up the cam compartment?
That's it for now but I will probably have more questions as the weekend progresses.
Thanks
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Please bear with me if my questions seem stupid, but I forgot to grab the service manual when I left the house so I could read up on the subject. Can the quick install pushrods be uninstalled and re-installed? If so, how do they come out? Are they spring loaded like the S&S ones? If so, I can probably figure it out. If not, do I need to cut these out and start over?
Also, and I almost hate to even ask this question as I'm sure the service manual covers it, does the oil need to be drained before opening up the cam compartment?
That's it for now but I will probably have more questions as the weekend progresses.
Thanks
©¿©
They are not spring loaded. Get the rear wheel off the ground, pull the sparkplugs and shift into 5th or 6th gear so that you can rotate the engine by turning the rear wheel by hand.
Get the motor to Top Dead Center ( the lifters on a cylinder will both be at their lowest point (the valves are now closed.)) You can tell because you can spin either pushrod with your fingers now. Loosen each pushrod's locknut, and back it away a little then screw the threaded portion of the pushrod up and into the body of the top half of the pushrod, thereby shortening it until you can clear the pushrod of your tappet covers. Patience here, it'll take awhile.
Get the motor to Top Dead Center ( the lifters on a cylinder will both be at their lowest point (the valves are now closed.)) You can tell because you can spin either pushrod with your fingers now. Loosen each pushrod's locknut, and back it away a little then screw the threaded portion of the pushrod up and into the body of the top half of the pushrod, thereby shortening it until you can clear the pushrod of your tappet covers. Patience here, it'll take awhile.
IF this is a mystery- maybe you need an experienced hand and eye to go over the various "issues" you seem to have.
the experience of a professional may save you money in the end.
In my line of work i often have customers self diagnosing major work...when really just a quick and easy adjustment is required.
Worst of all is a customer who gets in over their head and breaks something- leading to expensive repairs or replacement
mike
the experience of a professional may save you money in the end.
In my line of work i often have customers self diagnosing major work...when really just a quick and easy adjustment is required.
Worst of all is a customer who gets in over their head and breaks something- leading to expensive repairs or replacement
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Jul 31, 2014 at 07:22 PM.
IF this is a mystery- maybe you need an experienced hand and eye to go over the various "issues" you seem to have.
the experience of a professional may save you money in the end.
In my line of work i often have customers self diagnosing major work...when really just a quick and easy adjustment is required.
Worst of all is a customer who gets in over their head and breaks something- leading to expensive repairs or replacement
mike
the experience of a professional may save you money in the end.
In my line of work i often have customers self diagnosing major work...when really just a quick and easy adjustment is required.
Worst of all is a customer who gets in over their head and breaks something- leading to expensive repairs or replacement
mike
IF this is a mystery- maybe you need an experienced hand and eye to go over the various "issues" you seem to have.
the experience of a professional may save you money in the end.
In my line of work i often have customers self diagnosing major work...when really just a quick and easy adjustment is required.
Worst of all is a customer who gets in over their head and breaks something- leading to expensive repairs or replacement
mike
the experience of a professional may save you money in the end.
In my line of work i often have customers self diagnosing major work...when really just a quick and easy adjustment is required.
Worst of all is a customer who gets in over their head and breaks something- leading to expensive repairs or replacement
mike
I did put my trust into someone who I thought was a professional do the work. What I got was a bike that won't run. I've had to fix a number of problems already because of his plain old sloppy workmanship. You'd be surprised at what I've had to fix. Now I don't trust anyone around where I live.
I have been in contact with Jamie at Fuel Moto and, while it's not really his problem, he is helping me work through this one step at a time. Major kuddo's to him for that!!! I only have about 40 hours a week at home so this is a long drawn out (and frustrating) process and I need to make what little time I have go as efficiently as possible.
In over my head? Maybe. But I bet I won't be quite as confused when I'm done.
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