07 RK losing electrical power while riding
My roadking has been shutting down briefly while riding, for less than a second and lurching and refiring. I've had speedo communication fault codes 2 weeks ago. I went through checked fuses/relays for corrosion. Checked grounds, battery posts, and all main harness and speedo connectors. I have a PCV on the bike also, everything seems to be working.
All was fine for a tank of fuel, and it shutdown again last night. Didn't throw any codes, but I know it went down because my heated grips reset.
My headlights dimmed slightly like j was losing power from my generator but all voltage tests within specs and new battery was put in this spring.
I'm currently at a loss and hate to just blindly throw money at this by replacing electrical parts.
Any ideas?
as above check the cables- clean and tight at both ends?- any sign of corrosion inside the insulation? any cuts in the insulation which could short the + on the frame or chassis when you hit a bump?
( try banging on the bike with a rubber mallet while idling in the driveway- or bounce up and down on the seat)
pull clean and grease fuses- fuse on left 3 years old in a dry climate, fuse on right cleaned with scotchbrite

lastly- try running without the piggyback tuner... using that adds 2 more connections for each sensor and actuator on your bike.
corrosion or bad pins could be the source of your troubles.
recently a couple of riders have had problems with parting wires at the ECM harness- manipulate these while idling.
also problems with wiring for the sensors on the motor- manipulate everything you can ( without stress or causing a problem) while the bike is idling
Mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Aug 15, 2014 at 01:10 AM.
the new "redesigned" breaker is a 50 amp as compared to a 30. It is located under the seat just in front of the battery -- gets a lot of heat there
the new "redesigned" breaker is a 50 amp as compared to a 30. It is located under the seat just in front of the battery -- gets a lot of heat there
Mine has done it at low speeds and stalled in the past, but again it's a once an every couple tanks of gas problem.
The one Weds night was at 60mph approaching a fast sweeper when I only hand one hand on the bars needless to say it scared me, and I want to track this gremlin down.
as above check the cables- clean and tight at both ends?- any sign of corrosion inside the insulation? any cuts in the insulation which could short the + on the frame or chassis when you hit a bump?
( try banging on the bike with a rubber mallet while idling in the driveway- or bounce up and down on the seat)
pull clean and grease fuses- fuse on left 3 years old in a dry climate, fuse on right cleaned with scotchbrite

lastly- try running without the piggyback tuner... using that adds 2 more connections for each sensor and actuator on your bike.
corrosion or bad pins could be the source of your troubles.
recently a couple of riders have had problems with parting wires at the ECM harness- manipulate these while idling.
also problems with wiring for the sensors on the motor- manipulate everything you can ( without stress or causing a problem) while the bike is idling
Mike
1. I did not clean the sensor I'll put that on my list for this weekend.
2. I inspected, cleaned/brushed all battery cables, no major corrosion present, retightened the first time this problem occurred ~ 2 weeks ago.
3. Mallet test, will conduct this weekend. That's a great idea.
4. Inspected and scuffed up all fuses, checked relays also. No corrosion present. Did not grease, wasn't sure about dielectric grease in the fuse box.
5. Was hesitant to remove tuner, running cams and the bike will run really rough without and with such an intermittant problem hard to catch. Reseated all connections, and looking long at hard at Power Vision which would flash to ECM and remove two connections.
6. Didn't wiggle the main either. Will conduct Saturday.
Great ideas guys keep them coming, and I'll try and update what I find out this weekend.
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you should be able to test without your power commander.
if you are super worried, get a set of xieds on there to slightly richen the mixture.
adding the extra connections of a piggyback tuner- ( or the possibility of a duff PC) - add a layer of complexity and potential poor connections.
it's me but I don't have a fuzzy feeling for dynojet products- their much pimped CV carb modification kits were crap...and from my observations I don;t think much of the PC range*...maybe the PV is better.
if I were looking for a tuning solution for a modded motor, I would look at a replacement ecm such as the thundermax.
this way you get a single device running the motor based on user settings and sensor inputs- as opposed to a piggyback unit "translating" sensor input and actuator signals...this, to me, is like having a conversation translated from English to Japanese, back to English.
I only run my touring bikes at stage 1 and use xieds on my 09...so what do I know...
But I am good with electronics and that has influenced my decision ( plus I am cheap ).
mike
*I've seen more riders blowing soot and getting 32 MPG...lots of riders with problems with stalling or rough running etc etc- many of these are traced to settings installed by the owner or their "tuner" but...
Last edited by mkguitar; Aug 15, 2014 at 11:09 AM.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
It would well worth changing the main relay -- as I mentioned 8 dollars at Harley


