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07 RK losing electrical power while riding

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Old Aug 14, 2014 | 11:32 PM
  #1  
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Default 07 RK losing electrical power while riding

I've done some searching, and can't find anyone experiencing exactly what has been happening with my bike so I'll give the brilliant minds here a shot.

My roadking has been shutting down briefly while riding, for less than a second and lurching and refiring. I've had speedo communication fault codes 2 weeks ago. I went through checked fuses/relays for corrosion. Checked grounds, battery posts, and all main harness and speedo connectors. I have a PCV on the bike also, everything seems to be working.

All was fine for a tank of fuel, and it shutdown again last night. Didn't throw any codes, but I know it went down because my heated grips reset.
My headlights dimmed slightly like j was losing power from my generator but all voltage tests within specs and new battery was put in this spring.

I'm currently at a loss and hate to just blindly throw money at this by replacing electrical parts.

Any ideas?
 
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 12:21 AM
  #2  
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my 06 did this last week. Was running ~65 when it burped, reset the radio and I noticed the speedo climbing back up from 0. Did it again about 5 minutes later, same speed. After doing it a 3rd time, I turned around and headed home. Ran ok for 20 miles, then it burped again, this time at maybe 20 mph. Took a short ride later, and the starter clicked on me twice when I tried to start it, but 3rd try it started ok. Got home, key off then on, and another click. Next morning I pulled the seat, battery cables were plenty tight. Pulled the batt and it load tested good. Looked at the cable ring terminals and they were a bit tarnished, so I sandpapered them and the battery posts and reassembled. Hasn't burped or clicked again since.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 01:06 AM
  #3  
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for speedo fault did you pull and clean the sensor- it is a magnetic pick up and shavings from the tranny gears.

as above check the cables- clean and tight at both ends?- any sign of corrosion inside the insulation? any cuts in the insulation which could short the + on the frame or chassis when you hit a bump?

( try banging on the bike with a rubber mallet while idling in the driveway- or bounce up and down on the seat)

pull clean and grease fuses- fuse on left 3 years old in a dry climate, fuse on right cleaned with scotchbrite




lastly- try running without the piggyback tuner... using that adds 2 more connections for each sensor and actuator on your bike.
corrosion or bad pins could be the source of your troubles.

recently a couple of riders have had problems with parting wires at the ECM harness- manipulate these while idling.
also problems with wiring for the sensors on the motor- manipulate everything you can ( without stress or causing a problem) while the bike is idling

Mike
 

Last edited by mkguitar; Aug 15, 2014 at 01:10 AM.
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 07:00 AM
  #4  
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I had these same symptoms a couple of years ago. I traced mine to the emergency off/on switch. When my bike would stop I could turn the switch off and on a few times and it would start and run. I replaced the switch and all is well. Of course I'm not saying this is your problem, just a similar situation and a place to look. Nothing quite as fun as an intermittent electrical gremlin. Is your rider bell in place?
 
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 07:37 AM
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just went through this also -- on a 2000 EG -- did a little research and replaced the main circuit breaker -- 8 dollar part from Harley -- I think the one I replaced was an original (they had a recall in like 2003) so far so good -- mine would kick at low speeds

the new "redesigned" breaker is a 50 amp as compared to a 30. It is located under the seat just in front of the battery -- gets a lot of heat there
 
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 09:57 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by OwnerOfHarriet
just went through this also -- on a 2000 EG -- did a little research and replaced the main circuit breaker -- 8 dollar part from Harley -- I think the one I replaced was an original (they had a recall in like 2003) so far so good -- mine would kick at low speeds

the new "redesigned" breaker is a 50 amp as compared to a 30. It is located under the seat just in front of the battery -- gets a lot of heat there

Mine has done it at low speeds and stalled in the past, but again it's a once an every couple tanks of gas problem.

The one Weds night was at 60mph approaching a fast sweeper when I only hand one hand on the bars needless to say it scared me, and I want to track this gremlin down.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mkguitar
for speedo fault did you pull and clean the sensor- it is a magnetic pick up and shavings from the tranny gears.


as above check the cables- clean and tight at both ends?- any sign of corrosion inside the insulation? any cuts in the insulation which could short the + on the frame or chassis when you hit a bump?

( try banging on the bike with a rubber mallet while idling in the driveway- or bounce up and down on the seat)

pull clean and grease fuses- fuse on left 3 years old in a dry climate, fuse on right cleaned with scotchbrite




lastly- try running without the piggyback tuner... using that adds 2 more connections for each sensor and actuator on your bike.
corrosion or bad pins could be the source of your troubles.

recently a couple of riders have had problems with parting wires at the ECM harness- manipulate these while idling.
also problems with wiring for the sensors on the motor- manipulate everything you can ( without stress or causing a problem) while the bike is idling

Mike
Mike I'll try and answer these in order.

1. I did not clean the sensor I'll put that on my list for this weekend.

2. I inspected, cleaned/brushed all battery cables, no major corrosion present, retightened the first time this problem occurred ~ 2 weeks ago.

3. Mallet test, will conduct this weekend. That's a great idea.

4. Inspected and scuffed up all fuses, checked relays also. No corrosion present. Did not grease, wasn't sure about dielectric grease in the fuse box.

5. Was hesitant to remove tuner, running cams and the bike will run really rough without and with such an intermittant problem hard to catch. Reseated all connections, and looking long at hard at Power Vision which would flash to ECM and remove two connections.

6. Didn't wiggle the main either. Will conduct Saturday.

Great ideas guys keep them coming, and I'll try and update what I find out this weekend.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 10:54 AM
  #8  
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The tuner is only one area which you should look at ( try giving your ign switch a wiggle too- ultra high watt headlight bulbs can burn up the contacts in the switch).

you should be able to test without your power commander.

if you are super worried, get a set of xieds on there to slightly richen the mixture.


adding the extra connections of a piggyback tuner- ( or the possibility of a duff PC) - add a layer of complexity and potential poor connections.


it's me but I don't have a fuzzy feeling for dynojet products- their much pimped CV carb modification kits were crap...and from my observations I don;t think much of the PC range*...maybe the PV is better.

if I were looking for a tuning solution for a modded motor, I would look at a replacement ecm such as the thundermax.

this way you get a single device running the motor based on user settings and sensor inputs- as opposed to a piggyback unit "translating" sensor input and actuator signals...this, to me, is like having a conversation translated from English to Japanese, back to English.




I only run my touring bikes at stage 1 and use xieds on my 09...so what do I know...

But I am good with electronics and that has influenced my decision ( plus I am cheap ).








mike

*I've seen more riders blowing soot and getting 32 MPG...lots of riders with problems with stalling or rough running etc etc- many of these are traced to settings installed by the owner or their "tuner" but...
 

Last edited by mkguitar; Aug 15, 2014 at 11:09 AM.
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 02:49 PM
  #9  
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I had it happen at the low speed -- 5 or 6 times with in just a few minutes in stop and go traffic --- a couple of time when slowing for a corner --

It would well worth changing the main relay -- as I mentioned 8 dollars at Harley
 
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Old Aug 17, 2014 | 09:41 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by OwnerOfHarriet
I had it happen at the low speed -- 5 or 6 times with in just a few minutes in stop and go traffic --- a couple of time when slowing for a corner --

It would well worth changing the main relay -- as I mentioned 8 dollars at Harley
Well, I went through this morning and checked everything over, wiggled, cleaned, and re-checked everything I could find on it. Pulled it out rode 30 mi everything ran fine. Went back to grab a couple things at the house and went to pick up the OL, and it shut down twice within 200 ft of my driveway. Time to start replacing parts and I'm starting here. Then the commander is next.
 
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