Where is the catalytic converter on 2010 Tri Glide? Will slip ons take it away or will i have to replace all the exhaust ? New to this forum but learning alot the last few days. Confused right now if I should accept my order in jan for the new Trike !!!!

 

Slip ons will not eliminate the cats. They are located in the head pipe on the right side by the riders foot board. Replacing the whole exhaust system will create its own problems. I am very fortunate in that I own a 2009 TG and love it. My son has a 2010 and it is a love/hate relationship.

 

+1 on no options for replacement right now. It sure is a love/hate relationship. I love to ride it but hate the burn.

 

No pipes yet for the 2010 Tri, I assume the 09 could be modified, they don't have a cat. Get a welder to weld the 12mm bungs in the correct position for the O2's. The 19mm's O2, should be removed for a cleaner installation but I guess you could just plug them. Will require a tune after, especially if you put slipons on the Trike.

FYI I know a guy who is a welder that took out the back weld on the headpipe and drilled a series of 1/4" holes in the CAT material. Was concerned about holding exhaust gases long enough on the O2's for them to sample. Did not know it they could respond quick enough with the gas rushing by with no back pressure.

Here is how it went after he welded the end cap back on the end of the headpipe and tested with stock exhaust. Notice able gain in low end torque and throttle response on the first run. Then put SE 4" slipons on with the end caps baffles in the muffler and it put the Trike right back to where it was as far as performance. Put the stock back on and rode weather permitting for a few days and then switched again to the SE's. Definately more responsive with the stock muffler and the SE's were not much if any louder, a little deeper tone.

No tune yet but the guy will go with the XIED's probably until out from under warranty . They just plug inline and be taken out quickly if I have to go to the dealer " excuse me if the guy needs to go to the dealer". The 13.8 AFR may give me my torque back with the SE's but will stick with the stock if not. Somewhat satisfied with the overall responsiveness with just the drilled out CAT and the Stock until able to put the real fix on it.

FYI the XIED'S for the 09's are done but the 2010 will need an adapter on account of the 12mm O2's. It will be another 30 days before they are ready! I was going to go with 14 AFR where ever in the RPM band that was 14.6 and 13 AFR in the 900 to 1050 idle range when I got the tune. This looks close enough until I can find someone who can DYNO a Trike?

I don't think I will waste my money on a tune until I get the CAMS Changed and do the complete Stage I, AC and the Pipes, which will probably be after warranty. For experimentation purposes I would like to see how the Trike does this summer with the Heat in traffic, with the drilled out cat, 10 row Jagg with the fan and the Lenale Fan. I also added synthetic oil.

I am looking at a CAM with a little more duration than the 9 degrees on the 255's I am thinking the 254's have 30 degrees but do not know where I got that from or know if it will be a good fit for the 103. Will wait until I hear some feedback on the 255's and of course until the warranty expires.

I believe the guys who change that exhaust or take the CAT Stuffin completely out will have to tune unless they use the stock mufflers and AC.

Something for you guys to digest, drill it full of holes or take it all the way out. I could live with it just drilled but when I change the cams may go ahead and take it all out and tune. Why does it run better with the stock exhaust? Have to mull that one over also. I have seen some guys change to the larger diameter dual exhaust on the newer trucks and then go back to stock because of power loss. They probably did not know enough to remap the ECM on the Trucks "buy a Programer" Same difference on the Bikes/Trikes I guess but the first MAP just for slipons for the 2010 don't richin up the AFR, won't help with the cooling!

From experimentation " the other guy" drilling the CATS and stock muffler will give you some low end grunt and responsiveness, no tune. The cooling effect of this will remain to be seen next July and August. In the garage with the Lenale fan on the EITMS does not kick in but it is not hot enough yet to tell if the oil cooler and the Lenale can overcome those 90 degree days in traffic.

 

Good info, Coupe! With all that being noted, what would be the results if one would just install the SE air cleaner with no flash and stock mufflers (2010 TG)? Are we talkin serious lean-out and engine harm? Or, SE air cleaner and Stage I flash? I guess I'm trying to avoid the expense of slip-ons and it seems the stock mufflers provide sufficient low end torque.

 

I am hearing the canned Stage I MAP for the 2010's is still lean, "it will be for a 2010 with a cat in the headpipe"

The EITMS should prevent engine damage and I have been told the engine will actually shut itself down before it destroys itself. You need to research this. Most of us are at this point just concerned about extended engine life. Every 10 degree we can cool the engine gives us a little peace of mind about long term engine life expectancy!

IMO on most 2010's with the cat just adding slipons won't require a tune, I believe the ECM can adjust within those paramenters.

However if you remove the Cat Material and add slipons you are talking free flowing exhaust condition the the ECM can't adjust for. According to the plugs, still chalky white especially on the ceramic the AFR is still lean. I feel it would be the same if you added a High Flowing AC with stock pipes If you removed the Cat. I may try that when it warms up and see if I also lose my low end torque and throttle responsivness off idle.

The Trike runs OK with the slipons, no popping on decel or anything different from the Trike's original performance, still lean but it is dumping the heat faster now that the cat is not there holding it in. The headpipe and the pipes up to the head are cooler. Oil Temp is about 10 degrees cooler now when warmed up, was hoping for more!

I will have to also see how far the XIED's will take me, if they give me the torque back with the SE's and the plugs will brown out a little for me, I will have to see if they will also handle the high flow AC.

I got the slipons off EBAY for a hundred bucks and the XIED's are 99 + the cost of the adapters, whenever they get them developed.

You know of course with a proper tune they have to adjust more parameters than just the AFR. The XIED's are only a bandaid until I get from under warranty and can find a tuner who can dyno a Trike.

I am quessing that the slipons will be about as far as I will be able to go with the XIED's without leaning in out to much again. I will try the AC and the stocks before I try the AC with the slipons just to get us some real life info on how far we can take the 13.8 AFR only.

Of course some tech may come on here and save us the trouble!

I know what I have got at this point with the drilled cats and the stock exhaust. If the XIEDS brown out the plugs and get me a little more cool down, I can make it until out from under warranty. Keep in mind in the south the real test will be in July and Aug.

 

The ECM can adjust within a very small range for some changes. Adding slipons only you have no problems, adding the AC your going to have to add fuel. It should be fine in the cruising range which is where the O2 sensors are working. Outside the cruising range you O2 sensors are not in control so you may have lean spots that could lean out enough to cause heat and pinging. I'm on the wrong computer this morning other or I would put up a snap shot of the AFR settings which show where the O2 sensors are active and not. On 09 models once the AFR setting in the map is below 14.6 the O2 sensors stop controlling. On the 10's I'm not sure of the Lambda value without looking at the Instructions again, still learning the new values.

 

[quote=coupe55;5975385]I will try the AC and the stocks before I try the AC with the slipons just to get us some real life info on how far we can take the 13.8 AFR only.

Of course some tech may come on here and save us the trouble!

quote]

I'll certainly be watching for your results. BTW, where are those HD techs when you need them? It seems we have the most active Tri-Glide forum here than anywhere else!

 

[quote=Boom;5977606]We can't be so hard on the techs, remember the cats and the 2010 MAPS are new. Most are still disecting the info and going over the new MAPS and SEPST Program. Up until 09 most had the relevant info to share with us, now most are cautious about giving advise until they are sure in their mind the info is correct.

They all now can tell you how to go about getting your canned MAPS for the 2010, most will be heistant to tell you they are useless on here and you need to lose the CAT and Tune. I have a friend at my dealership that told me the only real fix for the heat was to lose the cat and tune but he can't say that in front of his boss, although the manager agree's Harley would freak if they pushed it.

Most Techs will be non committal until they are sure they have the answer and are cognizant big brother may be watching on here. I have had some good advise by PM. I just post my experimenting around with the warning that is just what it is.

Really should be long term test before I post and it should be verified by other Tri owners. The drilled Cats with the stock gave me a little extra torque and some good throttle response off Idle. I will not know about the heat relief at idle until next summer. The XIEDS may be a flop and wasted money, won't know until they get the adapters ready. I have had some good response from the 09 owners but non from the 2010's.

We know they made an o2 sensor change for 2010, I don't know how the ECM will react, nobody can take the plunge until the adapters are ready. Just because the XIEDS are working on some 09 Ultra's don't mean they will work on the 2010's until proven. Those adapters are going to add some resistance to the cables already proven for the 09, I doubt it will be enough to change the 13.8 but won't know until we get them and hook them up. It all may be a big waste of time and money past what I have already done.

I don't have a sniffer can only ride and read the plugs to see if I am effecting my lean condition. Will post after I get them in and get them on and put some miles on the Trike.

 

A little more info to take for what its worth. Here is a couple of screen shots of the AFR table for a Stage 2 103. The 1st is for 2008-2009, you will see the areas showing 14.6 are those that the O2 sensors are active in. Below 14.6 and it will go into open loop which means the O2 sensors will not help with the AFR control. Maybe this will help with the question on whether to map it when you change the AC or not. You should be able to get away with it when in the O2 sensor controlled ranges. Outside of those areas you may have lean and some rich spots. The lean spots could cause pinging.



This is the AFR table for a 2010 MY Stage 2 103 showing Lambda values. Anyhting below .976 will cause it to go into Open Loop.


I'm no expert just a person learning the ropes like most so I'm sure if I'm full of **** someone will set me straight. The AFR tables are just scratching the surface, there are many facets to getting a good tune. I'm still learning the electronic age, most of my experience is with mechanical injection which is night and day from what we have on our trikes.