Spongy brake help!
Most likely cause of a spongy brake as described is when the pistons in the brake caliper are not all ( I am assuming you have 4) coming in proper contact with the rotor.
Remove your caliper,pump your brake lever and watch that they are all moving at the same rate. If not, pump them until they are out half way, clean them with brake cleaner and a brilllo pad or soft brush if necessary, spray some wd 40 around the seals and the press them back into the caliper all the way.
This action by itself will get the air remand if the are any to go up in the the MC.
Now install the caliper back in its place and pump your brake, the pistons should all come out freely and in contact with the rotor.
That should give you a nice feel at the lever.
Joe
Remove your caliper,pump your brake lever and watch that they are all moving at the same rate. If not, pump them until they are out half way, clean them with brake cleaner and a brilllo pad or soft brush if necessary, spray some wd 40 around the seals and the press them back into the caliper all the way.
This action by itself will get the air remand if the are any to go up in the the MC.
Now install the caliper back in its place and pump your brake, the pistons should all come out freely and in contact with the rotor.
That should give you a nice feel at the lever.
Joe
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 461
Likes: 12
From: Ca
Most likely cause of a spongy brake as described is when the pistons in the brake caliper are not all ( I am assuming you have 4) coming in proper contact with the rotor.
Remove your caliper,pump your brake lever and watch that they are all moving at the same rate. If not, pump them until they are out half way, clean them with brake cleaner and a brilllo pad or soft brush if necessary, spray some wd 40 around the seals and the press them back into the caliper all the way.
This action by itself will get the air remand if the are any to go up in the the MC.
Now install the caliper back in its place and pump your brake, the pistons should all come out freely and in contact with the rotor.
That should give you a nice feel at the lever.
Joe
Remove your caliper,pump your brake lever and watch that they are all moving at the same rate. If not, pump them until they are out half way, clean them with brake cleaner and a brilllo pad or soft brush if necessary, spray some wd 40 around the seals and the press them back into the caliper all the way.
This action by itself will get the air remand if the are any to go up in the the MC.
Now install the caliper back in its place and pump your brake, the pistons should all come out freely and in contact with the rotor.
That should give you a nice feel at the lever.
Joe
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Joined: Mar 2011
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Hey sorry I didnt post earlier guys, been caught up at work. I zip tied the brake lever to the grip over night and came out in the morning, and it worked correctly! Thanks for the help. I would be totally lost without this forum!! Thanks for all the help. If ever in southeast PA, Im always down to ride gents!
i tap the line up and down then bleed... the zip tie open is a good trick as well but will ony typically help in micro bubbles... are you sure both lines had the same fluid run though them!? that is very very important to know, as you can not mix fluids or it will gum up your lines
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 200
Likes: 8
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Here is a video on how to bleed your brakes from JayBrake
http://forums.supertrapp.com/showthr...o-Bleed-Brakes
It was done with JayBrake mastercylinder and caliper, however the procedure is universal
To isolate the master cylinder as the cause of lack of pressure
http://forums.supertrapp.com/showthr...ol-Bench-Bleed
Keep in mind brake fluid needs replacement every two years.
http://forums.supertrapp.com/showthr...o-Bleed-Brakes
It was done with JayBrake mastercylinder and caliper, however the procedure is universal
To isolate the master cylinder as the cause of lack of pressure
http://forums.supertrapp.com/showthr...ol-Bench-Bleed
Keep in mind brake fluid needs replacement every two years.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 46
From: East Hartford, CT
Brake bleeder, suck empty the reservoir (leave a bit on the bottom so no air gets in the system., pump new fluid through bleeder till level reached.
No air, no worries. Every 10,000 miles. or 2 years.
ride safe.
No air, no worries. Every 10,000 miles. or 2 years.
ride safe.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 200
Likes: 8
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Replace all the fluid completely. Fill and drain a few times to ensure there is no cross contanimation from different fluids. The brakes are such are critical part of your safety, the extra cost of some wasted brake fluid is minimal in comparsion to what you stand to lose if the brakes dont work as intended.
The reason for changing every two years, is the master cylinder has a small relief hole that allows moisture to enter the master. Moisture will degrade the fluid within that time. At which point the fluid becomes Unreliable.
Use only freshly opened bottles of brake fluid, unless you know for a fact the bottle was opened less then six months prior. Longer than six months on opened bottles throw it out.
The reason for changing every two years, is the master cylinder has a small relief hole that allows moisture to enter the master. Moisture will degrade the fluid within that time. At which point the fluid becomes Unreliable.
Use only freshly opened bottles of brake fluid, unless you know for a fact the bottle was opened less then six months prior. Longer than six months on opened bottles throw it out.
Last edited by jangler14; Jan 26, 2013 at 10:29 AM. Reason: Added note
Bleeding brakes
Info from jangler 14 added here:
***Dyna Models & General Service Video Link Index***
Thanks for sharing!
***Dyna Models & General Service Video Link Index***
Thanks for sharing!
Last edited by FXD2003Rider; Jan 26, 2013 at 11:04 AM.
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