Most likely cause of a spongy brake as described is when the pistons in the brake caliper are not all ( I am assuming you have 4) coming in proper contact with the rotor.
Remove your caliper,pump your brake lever and watch that they are all moving at the same rate. If not, pump them until they are out half way, clean them with brake cleaner and a brilllo pad or soft brush if necessary, spray some wd 40 around the seals and the press them back into the caliper all the way.
This action by itself will get the air remand if the are any to go up in the the MC.
Now install the caliper back in its place and pump your brake, the pistons should all come out freely and in contact with the rotor.
That should give you a nice feel at the lever.

Joe

 

This is the next step if zip tie didn't work. The only thing Jcbo2 didn't mention is you need to put something between the brake pads BEFORE pumping the break leaver. If you don't, the pistons will pop out and you will be rebuilding your caliper. I have used a 1/4" piece of wood, like a paint stir stick, between the brake pads. Put pressure on one of the brake pads and pump brake leaver. Watch for a lagging piston. Use brake cleaner and a 22 cal bore brush to clean up that side of the caliper. If you did see a lagging piston, apply some grease with a q-tip. WD-40 is water based and is no bueno. Repeat for the other side of the caliper.

 

Hey sorry I didnt post earlier guys, been caught up at work. I zip tied the brake lever to the grip over night and came out in the morning, and it worked correctly! Thanks for the help. I would be totally lost without this forum!! Thanks for all the help. If ever in southeast PA, Im always down to ride gents!

 

i tap the line up and down then bleed... the zip tie open is a good trick as well but will ony typically help in micro bubbles... are you sure both lines had the same fluid run though them!? that is very very important to know, as you can not mix fluids or it will gum up your lines

 

DO NOT USE WD40!!!!!! god no! that is a water displacement, it will dry out and ruin your seals...

 

Here is a video on how to bleed your brakes from JayBrake
http://forums.supertrapp.com/showthr...o-Bleed-Brakes
It was done with JayBrake mastercylinder and caliper, however the procedure is universal

To isolate the master cylinder as the cause of lack of pressure
http://forums.supertrapp.com/showthr...ol-Bench-Bleed

Keep in mind brake fluid needs replacement every two years.

 

thanks for the help guys. IDK if the fluid was the same. This is the first fluid swap on the bike. Will I be able to tell before it gums up and destroys it?

 

Brake bleeder, suck empty the reservoir (leave a bit on the bottom so no air gets in the system., pump new fluid through bleeder till level reached.
No air, no worries. Every 10,000 miles. or 2 years.
ride safe.

 

Replace all the fluid completely. Fill and drain a few times to ensure there is no cross contanimation from different fluids. The brakes are such are critical part of your safety, the extra cost of some wasted brake fluid is minimal in comparsion to what you stand to lose if the brakes dont work as intended.

The reason for changing every two years, is the master cylinder has a small relief hole that allows moisture to enter the master. Moisture will degrade the fluid within that time. At which point the fluid becomes Unreliable.

Use only freshly opened bottles of brake fluid, unless you know for a fact the bottle was opened less then six months prior. Longer than six months on opened bottles throw it out.

 

Info from jangler 14 added here:

***Dyna Models & General Service Video Link Index***

Thanks for sharing!