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Gotta agree. I like chrome a LOT, but the black bits set off the bright bits nicely. Love the smoke blue or whatever color they call that version paint scheme.
I am planning on installing some Paul Yaffe 6 inch monkey sport bars next weekend ,and would like to know if you have to remove the connectors on the ends of the wiring so I can slide them throught the bar ,also I will be relocating the signals to the forks, so those are wires that I dont have to run through the bars , any tips are greatly apriciated .
I am planning on installing some Paul Yaffe 6 inch monkey sport bars next weekend ,and would like to know if you have to remove the connectors on the ends of the wiring so I can slide them throught the bar ,also I will be relocating the signals to the forks, so those are wires that I dont have to run through the bars , any tips are greatly apriciated .
Learn the de-pinning procedure and use it, going to make it all easier, especially putting the wires in the new bars. I would have the new bars in hand and do the switch one side at a time.
On my Low Rider I lifted the front of the tank to get at all the plugs. Pull the main fuse so you don't cause codes, which might happen anyway, just clear them.
Are you changing grips, the old left grip is a pain to get off but doable.
What OldMike said. I Googled those bars, with the 90 degree angles you'll definitely want to remove the connectors. Just be sure to make drawings and/or take pictures before pulling them so you'll know for sure how to re-pin them.
The TBW connector has 6 wires, 2 red, 2 white and 2 black. One red, black and white have a blue sleeve around them. Those 3 go in the side of the connector with the latch. Get 'em backwards and the TBW will be hosed.
Go to Lowes, get cable pulling lube and use plenty of it. It'll really make the cables slick and a bit easier to pull and it will dry over time.
Good plan on relocating the turn signals, as you said one less cable to pull on each side.
I put 10" mini apes on mine. Wire harness length was ok but I put on 2" longer brake line and clutch cable, 37" clutch and 42" brake. With 6" bars you should be ok with what you've got.
Learn the de-pinning procedure and use it, going to make it all easier, especially putting the wires in the new bars. I would have the new bars in hand and do the switch one side at a time.
On my Low Rider I lifted the front of the tank to get at all the plugs. Pull the main fuse so you don't cause codes, which might happen anyway, just clear them.
Are you changing grips, the old left grip is a pain to get off but doable.
yes I am putting on new grips as well ,thanks for the advice on lifting the tank ,I was planning on disconnecting the battery , so as not to get a short , as for the codes I will do just that and clear them .
Originally Posted by ole_phart
What OldMike said. I Googled those bars, with the 90 degree angles you'll definitely want to remove the connectors. Just be sure to make drawings and/or take pictures before pulling them so you'll know for sure how to re-pin them.
The TBW connector has 6 wires, 2 red, 2 white and 2 black. One red, black and white have a blue sleeve around them. Those 3 go in the side of the connector with the latch. Get 'em backwards and the TBW will be hosed.
Go to Lowes, get cable pulling lube and use plenty of it. It'll really make the cables slick and a bit easier to pull and it will dry over time.
Good plan on relocating the turn signals, as you said one less cable to pull on each side.
I put 10" mini apes on mine. Wire harness length was ok but I put on 2" longer brake line and clutch cable, 37" clutch and 42" brake. With 6" bars you should be ok with what you've got.
thanks I will be taking a lot of pics , my main concern is not taking the pins off it was installing the pins on the correct way,but I guess I have to be extra careful and take my time , I like doing my own work but when it comes to electronics , that stuff gives me anxiety,,lolthanks again guys
yes I am putting on new grips as well ,thanks for the advice on lifting the tank ,I was planning on disconnecting the battery , so as not to get a short , as for the codes I will do just that and clear them .
thanks I will be taking a lot of pics , my main concern is not taking the pins off it was installing the pins on the correct way,but I guess I have to be extra careful and take my time , I like doing my own work but when it comes to electronics , that stuff gives me anxiety,,lolthanks again guys
I used a safety pin, go gently, they pop right out, keep track.
It's easy.
I used a safety pin, go gently, they pop right out, keep track.
It's easy.
Photos of everything. The biggest challange is the TBW connector. I have yet to depin one where I didn't F it up. So now I just buy a new connector so when I depin, I toss the old one and use the new one. Every other connector is a piece of cake. Also on the TBW. There are six wires, two identical sets of three. Two red, two white and two black. Makes it nice and easy to screw up the order. I mark one set of three (the side of the latch) that way I know I've got the right three. I made a post on the subject with photos, somewhere...
yes I am putting on new grips as well ,thanks for the advice on lifting the tank ,I was planning on disconnecting the battery , so as not to get a short , as for the codes I will do just that and clear them .
thanks I will be taking a lot of pics , my main concern is not taking the pins off it was installing the pins on the correct way,but I guess I have to be extra careful and take my time , I like doing my own work but when it comes to electronics , that stuff gives me anxiety,,lolthanks again guys
Just go slow, check and double-check. I could find a link if you need it but Ryan Urlacher has some excellent you tube video's on depinning and piinning, pulling cables etc. Just lay each connector on a table, latch side up, write on a piece of masking tape which connector it is and snap a pic from the backside of the connector. I also drew a pic of the end of each connector and labelled the color of each wire. Then when you repin hold each connector latch side up and put the colors back the same as the pic. When re-pinning be sure you hear a little click when you insert the pin then give it a gentle tug after inserting the pin to insure it's locked. You'll be fine.
For me the electrical work was mostly a non-event but trying to figure out what length upper clutch cable I needed gave me fits.
Oh yeah, also much easier pulling the 40 amp fuse than trying to get down to that negative battery cable, it's buried so deep under the shock absorber. I also fully removed my tank; just got it out of my hair and didn't have to worry about a scratch. That also gave me a chance to clean up under there and put a coat of wax on stuff that never sees the light of day but does gather dirt and muck.
Photos of everything. The biggest challange is the TBW connector. I have yet to depin one where I didn't F it up. So now I just buy a new connector so when I depin, I toss the old one and use the new one. Every other connector is a piece of cake. Also on the TBW. There are six wires, two identical sets of three. Two red, two white and two black. Makes it nice and easy to screw up the order. I mark one set of three (the side of the latch) that way I know I've got the right three. I made a post on the subject with photos, somewhere...
thanks .im going to steal some of my girlfriends nail polish and make lilt marks on the wiring ,it should help
Originally Posted by ole_phart
Just go slow, check and double-check. I could find a link if you need it but Ryan Urlacher has some excellent you tube video's on depinning and piinning, pulling cables etc. Just lay each connector on a table, latch side up, write on a piece of masking tape which connector it is and snap a pic from the backside of the connector. I also drew a pic of the end of each connector and labelled the color of each wire. Then when you repin hold each connector latch side up and put the colors back the same as the pic. When re-pinning be sure you hear a little click when you insert the pin then give it a gentle tug after inserting the pin to insure it's locked. You'll be fine.
For me the electrical work was mostly a non-event but trying to figure out what length upper clutch cable I needed gave me fits.
Oh yeah, also much easier pulling the 40 amp fuse than trying to get down to that negative battery cable, it's buried so deep under the shock absorber. I also fully removed my tank; just got it out of my hair and didn't have to worry about a scratch. That also gave me a chance to clean up under there and put a coat of wax on stuff that never sees the light of day but does gather dirt and muck.
Originally Posted by AJ88V
Photographs of the connector before you pop the pins. Photographs.
thanks for the tip ,on the fuse , less work equals less frustration .since I using all stock cables I dont have to worry about getting extra cable lengths ,its why I went with 6 inch , so it was one less factor for me to deal with .
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