18 lowrider owners
Club Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 10,734
Likes: 3,755
From: SWFL
Just got one also. Consider putting on the LED tail light--big difference particularly during the day. With so many careless drivers, taking a step to make yourself more visible is a good investment. Hope you post an update of how you like your Stage 3 upgrade after you have a few miles on the bike.
With more power, comes the need for more brakes!
Brakes
The Custom Dynamics probeam tails are excellent. I've never seen one first hand, and internet photos are about as valuable as iphone audio of exhaust sounds for comparison purposes, but I've heard BAL (Bright *** Lights) are also great for visibility. I have the CD, along with their probeam sigs, and their run/brake/turn module which lights the sigs as additional running lights. The HD Digital Tech can active the stock sigs to act as additional brake lights, which is better then nothing, but it can't enable running light function. Which I consider valuable. So I added the CD module. Easy install. Plug and play. I did have to go back to the dealer and have them plug in the Digital Tech to disable the Brake/Turn setting, which is incompatible with the CD R/B/T module.
With all that extra power, you should look at the Arlen Ness big brake rotor. It works well.
With more power, comes the need for more brakes!
With all that extra power, you should look at the Arlen Ness big brake rotor. It works well.
With more power, comes the need for more brakes!
Club Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 10,734
Likes: 3,755
From: SWFL
I made a cheap, easy and noticeable improvement by changing to Lyndall Gold+ pads in the rear caliper (I also have them in the front). Others have raised the pedal position for more leverage, which I intend to do but just haven't gotten around to it... But you're right, it does suck.
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 614
Likes: 231
From: Hendeson, NV
I thought the rear brake was mushy and lacked feel on the test rides, and the rear brake foot lever as it comes from the factory is set at the wrong angle for a cruiser setup. I had the dealer adjust the foot lever angle, at his expense, prior to delivery and went through a structured set of bake bedding exercises for the first 200 miles to bed the brakes and to insure even wear on the rotors during this critical period. The rear brake got some better, but the front brake started squealing like a banshee once I began harder braking. I am now working on bedding exercises on the front brake. With over 600 miles on the new bike, the rear brake is probably as good as it will get, but it still lacks sufficient feel or braking power. The front bake has almost stopped squealing.
IMHO: The Owners Manual has an insufficient discussion of break-in warnings on the brakes. The warnings need to be expanded to warn new owners of the safety risks and break-in procedures regarding the brakes during the first 500 mile of use. HD definitely needs to adjust the rear brake foot lever angle on the OEM setup. I plan to live with the braking situation until I take it in for the 1k miles checkup. At that time, I plan to also go with the Lyndall Gold+ brake pads. Don't get me wrong; the Low Rider is a great bike, and I am glad I bought it. No bike is perfect, particularly the first few years a new version is out. HD needs to address the brake issue and advise service departments of how to correct the brake issue and advise customers.
BTW: I hope HD has someone who reads these posts every day and tracks the number of ideas and problems of new owners.
IMHO: The Owners Manual has an insufficient discussion of break-in warnings on the brakes. The warnings need to be expanded to warn new owners of the safety risks and break-in procedures regarding the brakes during the first 500 mile of use. HD definitely needs to adjust the rear brake foot lever angle on the OEM setup. I plan to live with the braking situation until I take it in for the 1k miles checkup. At that time, I plan to also go with the Lyndall Gold+ brake pads. Don't get me wrong; the Low Rider is a great bike, and I am glad I bought it. No bike is perfect, particularly the first few years a new version is out. HD needs to address the brake issue and advise service departments of how to correct the brake issue and advise customers.
BTW: I hope HD has someone who reads these posts every day and tracks the number of ideas and problems of new owners.
Stage IV
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 4
Likes: 6
From: Darwin, Australia.
I agree, the M8 has the balance counter weight which negates a lot of the shake rattle & roll, the reduced vibration allows for a lighter frame and the need to rubber mount the engine. It's about personal choices mate, test ride one.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 822
Likes: 261
From:
Congrats on the bike, looking good. Welcome
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6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 12
Likes: 2
From: NJ
Slip on vs pipes
So I'm kind of stuck here. I'm considering the VH radius pipes for my FXLR. The wife dont really like them so we looked at the staggered long shots. Since she rides with me she does have somewhat of a say on what we do to the bike. We want the loud sound but are looking at the costs involved. My question is what is the loudest slip on for the M8. I've heard the 3 inch slash slip on and the neighbor haters. Any feedback would be helpful.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,584
Likes: 918
From: coast to coast
Tab with Zombie baffles are loud, but not sure about the tone. Rineharts are popular and on the loud side.
Personally I like the Neighbor Haters overall on my M8, but I also like my Big Shot Staggered on my ‘09 Fatbob...
i just don’t think he VH sound the same on the M8
Personally I like the Neighbor Haters overall on my M8, but I also like my Big Shot Staggered on my ‘09 Fatbob...
i just don’t think he VH sound the same on the M8