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I've done a search and would like to learn and understand more on how the compensator works on my 2018 Sport Glide with the 107 M8 motor/drivetrain package. What exactly does it compensate, where is it located, and how does it work? Pictures or schematics appreciated, I am more a visual learner.
Makes it quite clear with that clutching action with ramps and engagement dogs and spring tension to keep them locked together with metal on metal, how important it is to change out your primary oil every 5000 miles instead of HD's recommended 10k in the manual, and to use good gear oil instead of 20w-50 3 hole rated oil.
Makes it quite clear with that clutching action with ramps and engagement dogs and spring tension to keep them locked together with metal on metal, how important it is to change out your primary oil every 5000 miles instead of HD's recommended 10k in the manual, and to use good gear oil instead of 20w-50 3 hole rated oil.
Oil is oil, the primary doesn't care what you put in it. I get better clutch performance by using the HD Formula + than any other oil though. Clutch dust is what fouls the oil, not the compensator action. The 10k interval is often enough, but for every guy that does it at 10k there's another that does it at 5k.
Makes it quite clear with that clutching action with ramps and engagement dogs and spring tension to keep them locked together with metal on metal, how important it is to change out your primary oil every 5000 miles instead of HD's recommended 10k in the manual, and to use good gear oil instead of 20w-50 3 hole rated oil.
It simple takes the harshness from a two cylinder impulses. It's extremely tough but anything will brake if abused.
Doesn't really provide drive train protection after Harley kept growing their motors. Why they went to the cush buttons in the rear sprocket cog pulley.
It can fret (faces get rough) and be noisy at idle. Doesn't hurt anything.
It's a non filtered gear box. So yes, use Harley's Formula + non detergent gear oil. (Transmission too) Don't use motor oil or differential lubricant. Their 2nd tier for the clutch or too heavy.
And if you're doing your own service, do all three ever motor oil change. I go by mileage for engine. Personally don't think it hurts to go an extra year if it takes that long. (After warranty has expired)
Change it hot and just driven. New filter and three o-rings. I am careful to put derby gasket back on the same way and usually reuse it. Don't overtightene and don't use loctite on maintenance bolts.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Mar 9, 2023 at 05:33 AM.
Makes it quite clear with that clutching action with ramps and engagement dogs and spring tension to keep them locked together with metal on metal, how important it is to change out your primary oil every 5000 miles instead of HD's recommended 10k in the manual, and to use good gear oil instead of 20w-50 3 hole rated oil.
Originally Posted by 702
Oil is oil, the primary doesn't care what you put in it. I get better clutch performance by using the HD Formula + than any other oil though. Clutch dust is what fouls the oil, not the compensator action. The 10k interval is often enough, but for every guy that does it at 10k there's another that does it at 5k.
As long as the oil used is not automotive type engine oil with friction modifiers in it. That will cause your clutch some issues sometimes.
Harley has had some issues with compensators exploding since they are cast and tend to be brittle. Cycle-Rama has a $300 replacement that I believe is forged and will take a real beating. It's on their website.
Harley has had some issues with compensators exploding since they are cast and tend to be brittle. Cycle-Rama has a $300 replacement that I believe is forged and will take a real beating. It's on their website.
370$. I got one, and It was purely for that "better safe than sorry." I hammer on my bike all the time now. I'm worried more about breaking a clutchbasket now, but should be fine as long as I shift properly.
A quick lesson on shifting. Dont popshift like I was doing lol.
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