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I've seen this in other areas of the forum and I know a lot of guys won't start a new thread for little stuff, so hopefully guys will chime in with little things that helped or hurt and maybe a pic or two. Kind of an open discussion area.
I'll start, I learned that bringing your cross over points up a little and adding a little gain, (instead of thinking you need really low cross points to feel it), will for sure add volume, add punch!! Thanks goes out to Dale (Yooperhog). He has a hard time leaving my place without adjusting something, and I'm thankful every time.
Kris
So there's a start, add some helpful or oops moments and don't be afraid to chime in.
Kris
I've seen this in other areas of the forum and I know a lot of guys won't start a new thread for little stuff, so hopefully guys will chime in with little things that helped or hurt and maybe a pic or two. Kind of an open discussion area.
I'll start, I learned that bringing your cross over points up a little and adding a little gain, (instead of thinking you need really low cross points to feel it), will for sure add volume, add punch!! Thanks goes out to Dale (Yooperhog). He has a hard time leaving my place without adjusting something, and I'm thankful every time.
Kris
So there's a start, add some helpful or oops moments and don't be afraid to chime in.
Kris
I learned the best way to compare two different fairing speakers is to put one of each on either side of the fairing...(at Blackpearls shop (Kris))...and let em sing..
My ears told me that the DD AW were outperformed by the MILLES
I learned the best way to compare two different fairing speakers is to put one of each on either side of the fairing...(at Blackpearls shop (Kris))...and let em sing..
My ears told me that the DD AW were outperformed by the MILLES
I recently tested out two 6.5 speakers for my fairing. I put speaker A in the left, and speaker B in the right with no tweeters and immediately noticed speaker B was louder, and played higher in the freqs so I figured that was the winner --- volume! I added some tweeters put 6.5's in both fairing holes and spent about 3 days tuning them (nothing else on the bike). After 3 days, I didn't love them so figured why not lets put speaker A back in with the tweeters connected and dialed in. After about 15 minutes of tuning them they sounded warmer, richer, more accurate that I really couldn't tell if the other speakers were really any louder or just played higher freqs. So I'm keeping speaker A. It's the sound I was looking for. It's difficult to A/B speakers with out having everything playing. Kinda like saying I'm not going to use a certain 6.5 speaker because it can't play under 100hz, when I have a 12 in each bag that can cover that range.
I too have been doing the side by side comparisons lately, PRV 10 to DD 10 yesterday, same amp, tuned separately side to side, and lowers 6.5s with no tuning...guess i need to tune the side by sides with the lowers, but more stuff becomes apparent the more time you spend with it, and TUNING makes a WORLD of difference!!
m
How about, if you ever have a speaker where the polarity marks have worn off.
You can use a double A battery and wire.
If the Positive is on the Positive terminal it will extrude out and if you have it reversed it will suck the speaker in.
**Maybe people didn't know?
Juice
In my case with tinkering I think I wear my ears out sometimes. I will tinker with gains and the DSP and think I've got it real good and do something else or ride the nekkid bikes for a while then come back to the geezer glide and think "hmmm, that's not as awesome as I thought it was..."
How about, if you ever have a speaker where the polarity marks have worn off.
You can use a double A battery and wire.
If the Positive is on the Positive terminal it will extrude out and if you have it reversed it will suck the speaker in.
**Maybe people didn't know?
Juice
I never knew about a AA battery but I have known about that with a 9v battery. Same concept but usually no wires needed
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