I’m new to this whole audio thing on a bike. I’ve read a lot of information on piecing this system together. I’m just looking for someone to double check my install plan to make sure I’ve got it all right.
Here’s what I’m working with:

1. Stinger SPX700x4 amp

2. Stinger SVTK 4681 amp wire kit

3. MMATS PA601cx speakers for the fairing

4. BT 355 line leveler

My speakers are installed using the stock speaker wires/connectors. The power wires are run down the backbone. My question is about the amp connections. I’m using my stock Boom 6.5 head unit which does not have RCA jacks like an aftermarket head unit. Here’s how I believe I need to hook it up. Unplug the speakers at the factory molex connectors. The wiring harness that was just unplugged needs to go to the BT 355 line leveler via the factory styled molex connector. Then the other end of the BT 355 needs a short RCA cable to plug into front input RCA harness on the Stinger amp. The line input and rear output will not be used. The grey wires on the stinger amp harness will connect to the molex connector coming out of the inner fairing to the speakers on each side. I will also need to run the blue power wire to the cigarette lighter for a power source that’s tied to the ignition.

As far as the settings on the amp, since I’m only using two channels, the front should be the only one that is relevant.
I've got the front freq set roughly to 80hz. My crossover is set flat. When tuning it I should set the volume at 3/4 and turn the sens dial up until it starts to distort and back off. Leave the BT 355 settings alone as the came from Biketronics. And also turn off the AVC.

The Stinger wiring kit is a nice setup and not cheap. For a 2 speaker setup I’m not sure that I’d go that route again. It can be done cheaper. If I do add speakers at a later date



I should have all I need.

Is a 60 amp maxi fuse correct for the positive cable? That’s what came in the stinger wiring kit.

Am I on the right track here?

Thanks in advance!!

 

I would run new speaker wire from amp to speaker and not use the pigtail inside the pod.

Set amp switch to hpf and about 90-100 hz.
I personally don’t recommend adjusting the pots on the BT355. They are so sensitive that it’s impossible to get them the same.

 

Set amp crossover to HP. Also, I'd recommend just running new speaker wire to your speakers in fairing. It's cheap and allows you to use a higher quality and thicker gauge (16) than the stock wires.
Also on crossover, start around 100. I know it's difficult to tell based upon the dial having 40-400 adjustability. Set gains with a multimeter and a 1000 hz tone based on the sticky on home page of audio forum. It'll yield more reliable results.

Yes turn off AVC. Yes do not adjust BT355. Other than that, you are in good shape.

If you haven't done it yet, the pods will need to be modified for the Mmats to fit. Either a relief hole for magnet or a heat gun and shape them with magnet. I find the hole easier as you can cut it, put the speaker in, and cover with dynamat. I've found the speakers fit better in the fairing when clocked upside down.

 

Is the stinger speaker wire of higher quality than the factory stuff?

 

I got everything together enough to fire it up tonight. Before I turned the gain up it sounded pretty similar to stock. Wow, turning the gain up makes a huge difference. Holy crap, this setup loud compared to stock!

 

Let it break in and then adjust to full potential.

 

where did you mount the amp? Can you post a picture.

 

+1

 

Wish I’d though of the heat gun option.

One option I’d suggest as well even if you don’t cut, is put some dynamat (or similar) to seal off as much as you can. Made a significant difference when I did!

 

lets see pics lol