blown tweeter/speaker enigma
Im new to active posting but not to reading the tons of info that this community has. This is a great resource that im thankful is here. Im also not such a newb that im ignorant to some of the amazing talent that lurks here in the audio section. Ive read some great threads here on many topics. With that said Im hoping to get some assistance with an issue. Ive blown not one, two, but 3 speakers in 2 months. Today almost instantly. Now, Ive installed dozens of car audio systems and realize I can throw all that out the window with sleds. I also realize that 3 sets of blown speakers is some type of weird denial that there is an issue that Im missing. frankly its embarrassing...lol.. My setup is a 2020 FLHXS with boom gts, A Soundstream, pn1000D, BT355, "ultra flash". The ultra flash was done a couple weeks ago and I had already blown the 1st set of Polk db652s, and was trying Rockford p1650's that blew this weekend. Today I tried another set of db 652s in the fairing and amp front channel, and Polk mm652s in the lowers on the amp rear channel. I hooked them up, turned the gain on the amp down, ran a 80hz, 100hz, 400,hz and 1kHz 0db test tones and noticed immediately one of the db652 s crackling, distorting, and cutting out, on the front channel of the amp with any tone I tried, nearly 0 amp gain, head unit half or less. I backed out of it for a minute, checked connections, cursed like a sailor, and tried music with the same result. To eliminate the bt355, as that was one common factor with all speaker casualties, I ran straight into the high level of the amp same issue with the front, at this point at least one tweeter was already smoked, then the rear channel and the sound was fine. I didnt expect the front would sound great, as I knew at least one speaker was blown, But I was eliminating possibilities. So, with that long winded story, my question, where should I go from here? Please dont say the rock from which I crawled. Im leaning towards amp? Is it possible to have one channel so messed up that it would do that? I was thinking voltage drop and clip, but that wouldn't make sense for the rear channel to run fine ?... Kinda lost, and frankly tired of buying $100 AR-15 targets... Thanks for listening and any help is welcome and appreciated!!
I'm going to go under the assumption that your amp is fine. Maybe it's not and is causing issues, but here are the steps I would take to try to get on the right track.
Also assuming you're running the four speakers in stereo (one speaker to each channel)
Ultra flash with BT LL is fine. Did you make any adjustments to the BT355? If so, contact Biketronics and see if they'll set it back to original for you. Pain in the butt to ship it back, but would be worthwhile.
Here's my setup steps for a system like yours.
Volume to 4 bars from top on Head Unit
1 khz 0 or -5 db tone. The choice is yours. But make sure it's a clean tone. Nothing from youtube. I recommend these https://www.wccaraudio.com/downloads (DD-1 Test Tracks)
Amp crossover set to Full (All frequencies passing through amp)
Do NOT hook speakers up to amp yet
If you do not have a DD-1 or Oscilliscope, use a multimeter set to AC volts. Find your target watts using calculator for AC volts and the ohm load the amp will see from the speakers.
https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/ele...alculator.html Enter in the ohm rating for your speaker (typically 2, 4, or 8) and the wattage you're looking to get to and it'll calculate your target AC voltage for when you turn up the gain on the amp. Refer to sticky on audio page for video tutorial from JL audio for setting amp gains with multimeter in this fashion.
After finding your target voltage (This is assuming the amp is fine and does rated power without distortion), set your crossover on amp to High Pass at around 100-120 hz.
Turn volume down, pull the USB stick
Plug in speakers to amp
Check with music at low volume and increase as needed listening for any audible distortion or issues. Note your new max volume on your head unit is 4 bars from top. Beyond that and it adds more voltage going to the amp, which increases amp output and increases the likelihood of getting to distortion point and hence speakers take a dump on you. In other words, crank it up to max and everything will fail.
If after going through all of this and you still have issues, it's time to look at your amp as possibly being faulty.
Feel free to shoot me a message if you run into any issues.
But I would first following Dentons directions
Last edited by MikieB; May 21, 2021 at 12:29 PM.
But I would first following Dentons directions
If it is on and you have your volume up your output voltage on the amp will increase considerably when riding putting you past your target voltages when setting the gains.
Also when setting the gains on the amp do it with the bike running. The 2 volt DC input voltage change will also change the your target AC output voltage.
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