The Official 2014 audio upgrade thread
What are some upper end speaker options for OEM lids? Looking to add an ARC 125.4 amp with Hertz 165 fronts but need a good rear and I really like the look of the OEM lid grill. Maybe a 5x7 to 6.5" adapter but I'm not sure if it will fit the 165s? I would buy these in a minute if I knew they would fit the 165s.
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by Mr_King; Jan 26, 2015 at 08:57 PM. Reason: Bad Link
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 145
Likes: 7
From: Illinois
What are some upper end speaker options for OEM lids? Looking to add an ARC 125.4 amp with Hertz 165 fronts but need a good rear and I really like the look of the OEM lid grill. Maybe a 5x7 to 6.5" adapter but I'm not sure if it will fit the 165s? I would buy these in a minute if I knew they would fit the 165s. Rockford Fosgate Speaker Adapter- 6x9 6x8 5x8 5x7 to 6.5 or 5.25 - YouTube
Thanks
Thanks
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 31
Likes: 1
From: Mass
I installed the Polk MM651's in my fairing. PBR300X2 on top of radio, next to air ride compressor, with a Pilot Remote switchbox mounted on amp. Last night I said the hell with it and ordered the Soundstream Picasso Nano 1 Ch amp and a Lanzar 8" Sub. Im going to build a sealed box with the amp mounted to it that fits in the saddlebag with MOLEX plugs. I dont care how the sub works because its an experiment. If it works out i am going to get 2 decent subs and do both bags.
Novice
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville
Speakers IN!!! Parts Purchased for AMP install
OK, so I posted a couple weeks ago. Seems like this forum is dying out. With that said, take your time and read through the posts. There is a lot of conflicting information on here about amps / Ohms and speakers that work dont work. Speakers that "dont fit" but I found that do. This is what I ended up with. I do have to say thanks to all the posts, even though some conflicting information there is a lot of great info as well. First off, the 2 ohm / 4 ohm argument is null and void if you are putting an amp in. Just make sure if your speakers are 2 ohm, that your amp is 2 ohm stable. If you ARE NOT using an amp, and just upgrading your speakers, use 2 ohm speakers, the harley head unit is 2 ohm stable and is designed to work with 2ohm speakers. OK so here is the gear list.
- 1 set of Hertz ECX 165.5's. I didnt have time to wire in the amp this weekend, but just wired up the head unit to these, they are not as loud but damn sound 100 times better. Crisper highs tight midrange / bass and smooth lower end. I also did lightly pack some batton fill in the enclosures. Wool Fill, closer to fiberglass but without the irritation. Lightly pulled apart.
- Boom Audio Speaker Grills ( I later found out the guys I know at the Stereo shop can custom make speakers grills easily. So check your local stereo shop to see if they can do that for cheaper than 100 bucks... HD rips you off on this part... two pieces of steal that cost less than a dollar to make.) I digress. The stock Street Glide Special speaker covers are thick plastic and would impact the woofer cone surround. The HD metal ones give more room. Also Tweeter does not touch or even come close to speaker grill.
- Cycle Sounds Magic Box. Part # 4405-0265F. (careful on the purchase on these, they are front and rear specific)
- Cycle Sounds HD speaker connectors Part # 4405-0266. (This is put on the Amp output, this way you dont have to cut anything on the loom. )
- Alpine KTP-445U, this little bad boy is 45x4 clean watts. or 90x2 @ 4 ohms. And over all is a tiny amp that fits perfect on the tray above the head unit. Purchase the connectors from harley to patch into the loom for ACC power ( to power amp on, I'll get a part number and modify this later. I dont have the part in front of me right now). An Amp wiring kit. Run power from battery, with a fuse at battery side.
- Patience, removing the speaker PODs from the bat wing fairing takes a bit of time, most of the bolts, are easy to remove, there are three per side that are pretty much a PITA.
- Setting gains on your amp with a osciliscope, this way you can see the head unit / amp at the clipping points. Finding these points, backing down from them and properly setting up your head unit / amp will provide you with the cleanest loudest possible set up without killing your speakers with a squared off sine wave. Sending a squared wave to your speakers will be a quick way to kill them.
Last edited by RocketHD1975; Feb 3, 2015 at 12:03 PM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
OK, so I posted a couple weeks ago. Seems like this forum is dying out. With that said, take your time and read through the posts. There is a lot of conflicting information on here about amps / Ohms and speakers that work dont work. Speakers that "dont fit" but I found that do. This is what I ended up with. I do have to say thanks to all the posts, even though some conflicting information there is a lot of great info as well. First off, the 2 ohm / 4 ohm argument is null and void if you are putting an amp in. If for some strange reason an amp gives a 1 ohm load on the head unit you'd be in for burning up your head unit, but they do not. OK so here is the gear list.
- 1 set of Hertz ECX 165.5's. I didnt have time to wire in the amp this weekend, but just wired up the head unit to these, they are not as loud but damn sound 100 times better. Crisper highs tight midrange / bass and smooth lower end. I also did lightly pack some batton fill in the enclosures. Wool Fill, closer to fiberglass but without the irritation. Lightly pulled apart.
- Boom Audio Speaker Grills ( I later found out the guys I know at the Stereo shop can custom make speakers grills easily. So check your local stereo shop to see if they can do that for cheaper than 100 bucks... HD rips you off on this part... two pieces of steal that cost less than a dollar to make.) I digress. The stock Street Glide Special speaker covers are thick plastic and would impact the woofer cone surround. The HD metal ones give more room. Also Tweeter does not touch or even come close to speaker grill.
- Cycle Sounds Magic Box. Part # 4405-0265F. (careful on the purchase on these, they are front and rear specific)
- Cycle Sounds HD speaker connectors Part # 4405-0266. (This is put on the Amp output, this way you dont have to cut anything on the loom. )
- Alpine KTP-445U, this little bad boy is 45x4 clean watts. or 90x2 @ 4 ohms. And over all is a tiny amp that fits perfect on the tray above the head unit. Purchase the connectors from harley to patch into the loom for ACC power ( to power amp on, I'll get a part number and modify this later. I dont have the part in front of me right now). An Amp wiring kit. Run power from battery, with a fuse at battery side.
- Patience, removing the speaker PODs from the bat wing fairing takes a bit of time, most of the bolts, are easy to remove, there are three per side that are pretty much a PITA.
- Setting gains on your amp with a osciliscope, this way you can see the head unit / amp at the clipping points. Finding these points, backing down from them and properly setting up your head unit / amp will provide you with the cleanest loudest possible set up without killing your speakers with a squared off sine wave. Sending a squared wave to your speakers will be a quick way to kill them.
Novice
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville
UltraNutz, thanks I've read a lot of your input on this forum, THX for that.
Just you so all know, I've taken pictures. I havent posted them yet. I will soon. For some who dont dive into these kind of projects on a regular basis, I would advice to take your time. I work in a very technical trade, and still had my service manual out with wiring diagram open to make sure what I was touching / moving around was something I should be touching. There are brake lines and electrical that are small and can be pinched. So just be aware, and take your time. Its a good 2.5 beer level of difficulty, out of five. Also a lot of the screws you take out are into plastic, be very aware of this, and be very careful not to over tighten. NO GORILLA GRIPPING!!! you can easily strip the plastic. There are torque specs listed for some of these bolts / screws. Again, this project is definitely worth the time and effort. Made me smile big when I was done.
Novice
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville
cool... take pics of sub install.
I installed the Polk MM651's in my fairing. PBR300X2 on top of radio, next to air ride compressor, with a Pilot Remote switchbox mounted on amp. Last night I said the hell with it and ordered the Soundstream Picasso Nano 1 Ch amp and a Lanzar 8" Sub. Im going to build a sealed box with the amp mounted to it that fits in the saddlebag with MOLEX plugs. I dont care how the sub works because its an experiment. If it works out i am going to get 2 decent subs and do both bags.
I've seen some subs in saddle bags. they sound good when parked, but once moving.... I've heard that its almost impossible to hear. I'd be interested on your take and your experience. I am def interested.
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 31
Likes: 1
From: Mass
That's what I'm expecting. That's why I went cheap and it will be drop in quick release. I also mounted the speakers inside the pod last night because I found them rubbing during testing. I thought the specials came with boom grills. Not thrilled with the air flutter leaking from pods . Also my air ride and LEDs are controlled by remote and right aux sw panel. Thought I'd throw that in there. I'll post pics next week
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
flutter? You pods are leaking air?
looking forward to seeing the pics..