Drop In Spring Kit
Thread Starter
|
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,758
Likes: 196
From: Boise, ID
Drop In Spring Kit
I was looking for any bit of advice I can get on installing Progressive Fork springs on my 11 Street Bob. I was going to tear them down to replace seals but it appears I may not have to do this. Which should save me a bit of money.
Everything looks pretty straight forward, but I would like to make sure.
Jack up bike and remove bars to access fork caps.
Loosen top pinch bolts and remove cap (which should be under tension).
Remove old crap and drop in new stuff.
When I cut spacer where should it sit?
Does anyone know how much below top of forks the oil level should be?
Thanks all in advance!
Everything looks pretty straight forward, but I would like to make sure.
Jack up bike and remove bars to access fork caps.
Loosen top pinch bolts and remove cap (which should be under tension).
Remove old crap and drop in new stuff.
When I cut spacer where should it sit?
Does anyone know how much below top of forks the oil level should be?
Thanks all in advance!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 3,410
Likes: 143
From: Palm Desert,CA
I was looking for any bit of advice I can get on installing Progressive Fork springs on my 11 Street Bob. I was going to tear them down to replace seals but it appears I may not have to do this. Which should save me a bit of money.
Everything looks pretty straight forward, but I would like to make sure.
Jack up bike and remove bars to access fork caps.
Loosen top pinch bolts and remove cap (which should be under tension).
Remove old crap and drop in new stuff.
When I cut spacer where should it sit?
Does anyone know how much below top of forks the oil level should be?
Thanks all in advance!
Everything looks pretty straight forward, but I would like to make sure.
Jack up bike and remove bars to access fork caps.
Loosen top pinch bolts and remove cap (which should be under tension).
Remove old crap and drop in new stuff.
When I cut spacer where should it sit?
Does anyone know how much below top of forks the oil level should be?
Thanks all in advance!
As for the oil level, remember to set this with the springs and washers out and with the fork tubes compressed, if you don't have the measuring device then you can make your own. Do you have your shop manual? The level should be in there, I know that my manual had a setting that is different from your model year.
It's a pretty simple task, couple of tips, cover your fork caps with tape or a thin shop towel to prevent marring, don't put your face above them, they'll still pop right out. It's obviously easier to compress the forks with the front wheel and fender off, adds maybe 15 minutes of time to the job. If you're changing oil completely easiest is to remove the fork tubes (unless you have forks with drains).
One last thing, you don't need to remove the bars, if you have your mini apes with short risers on you won't be able to get a socket onto the top caps but you can use a regular wrench (35mm I believe). I did not take my bars off
Have fun!
Thread Starter
|
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,758
Likes: 196
From: Boise, ID
It is pretty straight forward and you have it basically bang on. As for cutting the spacer and where it should sit... If you're not using preload adjusters your best bet is to measure the difference between your stock shocks and the new springs and cut the spacer by whatever the difference is. Then you may need to cut a little more spacer based upon your desired sag setting. If you are adding preload adjusters then you can cut the spacer a little more making the top cap re-install easier.
As for the oil level, remember to set this with the springs and washers out and with the fork tubes compressed, if you don't have the measuring device then you can make your own. Do you have your shop manual? The level should be in there, I know that my manual had a setting that is different from your model year.
It's a pretty simple task, couple of tips, cover your fork caps with tape or a thin shop towel to prevent marring, don't put your face above them, they'll still pop right out. It's obviously easier to compress the forks with the front wheel and fender off, adds maybe 15 minutes of time to the job. If you're changing oil completely easiest is to remove the fork tubes (unless you have forks with drains).
One last thing, you don't need to remove the bars, if you have your mini apes with short risers on you won't be able to get a socket onto the top caps but you can use a regular wrench (35mm I believe). I did not take my bars off
Have fun!
As for the oil level, remember to set this with the springs and washers out and with the fork tubes compressed, if you don't have the measuring device then you can make your own. Do you have your shop manual? The level should be in there, I know that my manual had a setting that is different from your model year.
It's a pretty simple task, couple of tips, cover your fork caps with tape or a thin shop towel to prevent marring, don't put your face above them, they'll still pop right out. It's obviously easier to compress the forks with the front wheel and fender off, adds maybe 15 minutes of time to the job. If you're changing oil completely easiest is to remove the fork tubes (unless you have forks with drains).
One last thing, you don't need to remove the bars, if you have your mini apes with short risers on you won't be able to get a socket onto the top caps but you can use a regular wrench (35mm I believe). I did not take my bars off
Have fun!
First thing...thanks Robby!!
No adjusters will be installed. Just the Progressive heavy duty drop in kit.
I don't have a shop manual, that is one of the things on my list of future purchases. I won't be changing the oil.
If I don't adjust the oil level and just leave what's in there in there, do you think that would be okay? I am under the impression that the oil level is not a really precise measurement. I could be wrong here of course.
I do have the stock mini apes on there, but there really isn't any risers, so I'm guessing I will have to pop the bars loose to slide them out of the way. At least that's not too big of a deal.
I'll wrap a paper towel over the cap. The socket I have coming has the o ring in it but can't hurt to make extra sure. I'll try to keep my face out of range....I need all the help I can get in the looks department! LOL
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 3,410
Likes: 143
From: Palm Desert,CA
You wont need to pull the bars if you use an open wrench, BUT if you're not planning to remove the fork tubes it may make the work easier to have the bars off when fishing/putting in the new springs and then when putting the caps back on.
For the fork oil, it's kind of important that they both be the same and that they're not overfilled. Plus you want to measure with the forks compressed and springs out so if you're keeping the front wheel on during the process you're going to need to lower the jack and get the wheel on the ground to compress the forks (or place something underneath to get them down).
I believe for your year it's around 110mm measured from the top with springs and washer out, forks compressed. Assuming that the new springs are longer than the stock ones there will be more displacement so you'll remove a little oil. Lots of home remedies to make your own measurement and removal tool. Here is an easy one, go to post 17 for pic.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...-i-hope-2.html
Remember to torque those pinch bolts to the right spec, I can look mine up for you tonight if you like or I'm sure google search can come up with it.
For the fork oil, it's kind of important that they both be the same and that they're not overfilled. Plus you want to measure with the forks compressed and springs out so if you're keeping the front wheel on during the process you're going to need to lower the jack and get the wheel on the ground to compress the forks (or place something underneath to get them down).
I believe for your year it's around 110mm measured from the top with springs and washer out, forks compressed. Assuming that the new springs are longer than the stock ones there will be more displacement so you'll remove a little oil. Lots of home remedies to make your own measurement and removal tool. Here is an easy one, go to post 17 for pic.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...-i-hope-2.html
Remember to torque those pinch bolts to the right spec, I can look mine up for you tonight if you like or I'm sure google search can come up with it.
Last edited by robbyville; Feb 12, 2015 at 03:34 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 369
Likes: 31
From: Marlton, NJ
The Progressive drop in kit I installed on my fat Bob had the spacers in the kit. I didn't cut them and it worked out great for me with right at 1" of sag.
Progressive recommends 150mm air space with the forks compressed and no spring/washers installed for the 49mm forks. However, they also say no less than 130mm and no more than 250mm gap so its a pretty broad range for sure.
Since my bike only had 1000 miles on it I siphoned all the oil out with a vacuum oil extractor and replaced with 15wt.
I cut down an aluminum tube to 150mm with a plastic cap on the top. Drilled a hole and ran the oil extractor down into the tube. Filled each fork with oil, worked out all the air, and used the extractor with my home built tube/depth gauge to siphon to the correct level on each side.
Progressive recommends 150mm air space with the forks compressed and no spring/washers installed for the 49mm forks. However, they also say no less than 130mm and no more than 250mm gap so its a pretty broad range for sure.
Since my bike only had 1000 miles on it I siphoned all the oil out with a vacuum oil extractor and replaced with 15wt.
I cut down an aluminum tube to 150mm with a plastic cap on the top. Drilled a hole and ran the oil extractor down into the tube. Filled each fork with oil, worked out all the air, and used the extractor with my home built tube/depth gauge to siphon to the correct level on each side.
Last edited by DrewNJ; Feb 12, 2015 at 03:53 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 3,410
Likes: 143
From: Palm Desert,CA
The Progressive drop in kit I installed on my fat Bob had the spacers in the kit. I didn't cut them and it worked out great for me with right at 1" of sag.
Progressive recommends 150mm air space with the forks compressed and no spring/washers installed. However, they also say no less than 130mm and no more than 250mm gap so its a pretty broad range for sure.
Since my bike only had 1000 miles on it I siphoned all the oil out with a vacuum oil extractor and replaced with 15wt.
I cut down an aluminum tube to 150mm with a plastic cap on the top. Drilled a hole and ran the oil extractor down into the tube. Filled each fork with oil, worked out all the air, and used the extractor with my home built tube/depth gauge to siphon to the correct level on each side.
Progressive recommends 150mm air space with the forks compressed and no spring/washers installed. However, they also say no less than 130mm and no more than 250mm gap so its a pretty broad range for sure.
Since my bike only had 1000 miles on it I siphoned all the oil out with a vacuum oil extractor and replaced with 15wt.
I cut down an aluminum tube to 150mm with a plastic cap on the top. Drilled a hole and ran the oil extractor down into the tube. Filled each fork with oil, worked out all the air, and used the extractor with my home built tube/depth gauge to siphon to the correct level on each side.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 369
Likes: 31
From: Marlton, NJ
I'm thinking the 150mm vs 110mm might have to do with the spring itself. The OEM spring is smaller so it takes up less volume when installed. Just a guess anyway...lol
Trending Topics
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 3,410
Likes: 143
From: Palm Desert,CA
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,758
Likes: 196
From: Boise, ID
Does make sense....
Thanks for all the help on this, I do appreciate it!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post