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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Honestly and obviously this is just my opinion: I'd skip the dealer download/flash and put that money toward a Power Vision or at a bare minimum the FP3. The true flash tuner like the Power Vision is what will truly give your new Wide Glide the performance you're clearly after. The dealer flash is still EPA compliant, only slightly alters fueling, ups the rev limit a bit but it's still going to be lean.
The Power Vision is a bit spendy but it's one of the smartest things I did for my Wide Glide, the difference from stock to my current tune is staggering
I used a pre-loaded map for se/ac and v&h slip-ons. immediate difference. not quite as raw as the sporty, but definitely got rid of the "pick-up truck" feeling! i'll do some auto tune runs tomorrow
Just a tip, when you finish your auto tune run don't use the ignition switch but rather shut down the bike with the kill switch and leave the ignition on while you save the auto tune run, then apply the new map before you turn off the ignition. Your auto tune run will be more accurate that way due to how the data is saved in the PV...
After you apply the first run go in to Quick Tune, set your decel to 10% and V/E to 12%, save changes then take her for a ride and get a feel for the changes. A few auto tune runs and you're going to be amazed at the improvements, it takes several runs since you can't do wholesale changes all at once with the pre-loaded DynoJet maps.
When you've got her dialed in a bit closer we'll talk about pulling your exhaust baffles and putting in TTI's to prevent reversion in the exhaust
Just a tip, when you finish your auto tune run don't use the ignition switch but rather shut down the bike with the kill switch and leave the ignition on while you save the auto tune run, then apply the new map before you turn off the ignition. Your auto tune run will be more accurate that way due to how the data is saved in the PV...
After you apply the first run go in to Quick Tune, set your decel to 10% and V/E to 12%, save changes then take her for a ride and get a feel for the changes. A few auto tune runs and you're going to be amazed at the improvements, it takes several runs since you can't do wholesale changes all at once with the pre-loaded DynoJet maps.
couldnt wait, went out and logged 6 runs. log-tune-log-tune-n. bike is now just as rippy as my sporty. popping reduced
few questions though.
how many runs to do?
do i leave the decel at 10% and V/E at 12%?
Originally Posted by TinCupChalice
When you've got her dialed in a bit closer we'll talk about pulling your exhaust baffles and putting in TTI's to prevent reversion in the exhaust
i already have a set of 258Ws i bought for my sporty, but decided not to install
couldnt wait, went out and logged 6 runs. log-tune-log-tune-n. bike is now just as rippy as my sporty. popping reduced
few questions though.
how many runs to do?
do i leave the decel at 10% and V/E at 12%?
With you running the pipes and baffles you currently are you may find you'll need to increase your decel and V/E a bit more; before adding the TTI's to my V&H Big Shots Staggered my decel was 20% and V/E was 15%, after adding the TTI's and doing a few additional auto tune runs my decel ended up at 6% and V/E at 13%.
With the percentages I used both before and after the TTI's I could run her up to 5500 RPM in 2nd gear, snap the throttle closed and let the RPM's fall to the point of near stalling out the engine and had zero popping or burbling in the exhaust. The TTI's are more effective at preventing reversion which is why I was able to reduce the percentages; the TTI's also improve low and mid range performance and give the exhaust a deeper tone
Alter the decel and V/E percentages and take a ride listening to the pipes as the RPM's fall, you'll find the sweet spot for your setup. I also tweaked my idle to a -100, oil pressure gauge shows 13 -15 PSI at hot idle so no issue there.
I'd read you only needed to do 3 or 4 auto tune runs but I did something like 11 in total, I got more efficient at the process in the later runs and the bike continued to improve so I kept at it; if you mount the PV on the bars you can watch the auto tune run progress in the fuel cell screen, the cells will go from green to a yellow/orange to red when they default out on max data for the run, I tried to fill as much of the screen with red as I could on each run. You can only alter the map so far during each run and it seemed to me by watching the fuel cells fill with data my later runs were more effective since I could see the areas that were being missed during 'normal' riding.
When you're out riding don't be afraid to run those RPM's up, these 103" engines start making sweet power above 3000 RPM
i broke out the Gordon Freeman Crowbar and tried to yank them... nothing. ideas?
i enlarged one bolt hole in each pipe (and baffle, in case i decide to undo the TTIs to 3/8 and put in new 3/8 bolts and nuts until i figure out this baffling baffle situation.
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Power Vision Tuner appeared
