Oil Cooler Questions.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,456
Likes: 2,860
From: SW FL-Jersey Shore Emigre
I have a low mount MoCo cooler on my Wide Glide, with an LCD dipstick temp gauge. No problems with either over the past 2 years. The LCD is a pain to read, and I prefer the analog temp gauge dipsticks I have on the softails.
The real question is, is an oil cooler really necessary, especially if one runs synthetic oil?
The real question is, is an oil cooler really necessary, especially if one runs synthetic oil?
Analog Oil Temp Dipstick
I've had a JES Custom Accents analog oil temp dipstick for three or four years and it works perfectly - much easier to read than the digital (just a split second glance tells you what you need to know).
Keep in mind that you need to change out the oil 'spout' casting on the side of the engine to make it work. The unit comes with a replacement casting which straightens out the path for the dipstick, so it doesn't need to bend like current dyna ones.
Mine was chromed and oil-filled but the newer ones for dynas are black and seem to only come in the air-filled version - no idea why.
I've had a JES Custom Accents analog oil temp dipstick for three or four years and it works perfectly - much easier to read than the digital (just a split second glance tells you what you need to know).
Keep in mind that you need to change out the oil 'spout' casting on the side of the engine to make it work. The unit comes with a replacement casting which straightens out the path for the dipstick, so it doesn't need to bend like current dyna ones.
Mine was chromed and oil-filled but the newer ones for dynas are black and seem to only come in the air-filled version - no idea why.
Last edited by Davdoodles; Dec 8, 2015 at 04:49 AM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
Without a way to monitor the oil temp, it is hard to say. It gets really warm down here on the Gulf Coast during mid-summer and I have felt that the engine was getting hot a few times before I put on the cooler but I have no idea how hot or if it was nearing critical or not. I need an analog gauge because I hate idiot lights, they only come on when it all goes to **** anyway, and digital displays are too difficult to read in all light conditions and very cumbersome to quick scan.
I toyed with that fundamental question for awhile but decided that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Without a way to monitor the oil temp, it is hard to say. It gets really warm down here on the Gulf Coast during mid-summer and I have felt that the engine was getting hot a few times before I put on the cooler but I have no idea how hot or if it was nearing critical or not. I need an analog gauge because I hate idiot lights, they only come on when it all goes to **** anyway, and digital displays are too difficult to read in all light conditions and very cumbersome to quick scan.
Without a way to monitor the oil temp, it is hard to say. It gets really warm down here on the Gulf Coast during mid-summer and I have felt that the engine was getting hot a few times before I put on the cooler but I have no idea how hot or if it was nearing critical or not. I need an analog gauge because I hate idiot lights, they only come on when it all goes to **** anyway, and digital displays are too difficult to read in all light conditions and very cumbersome to quick scan.
being over top of the engine is like being a pig on a spit. that's why i put one on my sportster.
the dyna is just plain hotter, even now. there is stupid heat pouring off that thing, i'm preempting summer viscosity breakdown. i'll probably add fans once i can figure out a way to toggle them or have them automated like the ultracool system. i think the ultracool thermostat triggers the fans when it opens.
I have a low mount MoCo cooler on my Wide Glide, with an LCD dipstick temp gauge. No problems with either over the past 2 years. The LCD is a pain to read, and I prefer the analog temp gauge dipsticks I have on the softails.
The real question is, is an oil cooler really necessary, especially if one runs synthetic oil?
The real question is, is an oil cooler really necessary, especially if one runs synthetic oil?
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 8,758
From: Galt's Gulch - MI
I toyed with that fundamental question for awhile but decided that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Without a way to monitor the oil temp, it is hard to say. It gets really warm down here on the Gulf Coast during mid-summer and I have felt that the engine was getting hot a few times before I put on the cooler but I have no idea how hot or if it was nearing critical or not. I need an analog gauge because I hate idiot lights, they only come on when it all goes to **** anyway, and digital displays are too difficult to read in all light conditions and very cumbersome to quick scan.
Without a way to monitor the oil temp, it is hard to say. It gets really warm down here on the Gulf Coast during mid-summer and I have felt that the engine was getting hot a few times before I put on the cooler but I have no idea how hot or if it was nearing critical or not. I need an analog gauge because I hate idiot lights, they only come on when it all goes to **** anyway, and digital displays are too difficult to read in all light conditions and very cumbersome to quick scan.
When I bought my Jagg low mount oil cooler I figured the same and decided cooler is always better. I intentionally mounted my Power Vision so I could monitor engine and cylinder head temperatures when I installed the Jagg, I'd previously had the PV mounted and while mounted I had the PV set to monitor temperatures so I had a pretty good idea where temperatures were typically running. I'm using LiquiMoly 10W-60 full synthetic and did see a drop of around 30 degrees from the previous engine and head numbers... The Jagg may be a bit spendy but it's well worth the price of admission
I intentionally mounted my Power Vision so I could monitor engine and cylinder head temperatures when I installed the Jagg, I'd previously had the PV mounted and while mounted I had the PV set to monitor temperatures so I had a pretty good idea where temperatures were typically running.
bless the forum!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
I have the Mickey Mouse ears tach and speedo setup and really no room to install a 2.25 inch gauge. The MM setup really looks old school, like those metrics and Bonnie I rode back in the beginning so it stays.
An oil pressure setup is good, but, IMO, not as good an indicator of engine health as temp gauge. An idiot light is just as effective as an oil pressure gauge, both will tell you that engine failure is eminent but damage probably has already occurred. Besides, if the oil pressure is low, could it be because the engine is overheating?
Ideally, both are better, but add a cylinder head temp with it and cover all the parameters. However, if I only have room for one, I pick the oil temp over the pressure. Now, if I could just find an indicator that would tuck in nicely around this tach and speedo somehow...
An oil pressure setup is good, but, IMO, not as good an indicator of engine health as temp gauge. An idiot light is just as effective as an oil pressure gauge, both will tell you that engine failure is eminent but damage probably has already occurred. Besides, if the oil pressure is low, could it be because the engine is overheating?
Ideally, both are better, but add a cylinder head temp with it and cover all the parameters. However, if I only have room for one, I pick the oil temp over the pressure. Now, if I could just find an indicator that would tuck in nicely around this tach and speedo somehow...
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 13,402
Likes: 941
From: Illinois
The LED HD dipstick has worked well on my 2000 Deuce since new. No wait! I had to spend money on a new battery three years ago. Piece of crap battery!
I traded in the 11 CVO Ultra last month with the dipstick. So I don't know if it will go past the five year mark or not.
I traded in the 11 CVO Ultra last month with the dipstick. So I don't know if it will go past the five year mark or not.
yeah, i agree. i will cool my engine even if there is no express need, but here in fl, it gets insane hot in june, july, august.
being over top of the engine is like being a pig on a spit. that's why i put one on my sportster.
the dyna is just plain hotter, even now. there is stupid heat pouring off that thing, i'm preempting summer viscosity breakdown. i'll probably add fans once i can figure out a way to toggle them or have them automated like the ultracool system. i think the ultracool thermostat triggers the fans when it opens.
being over top of the engine is like being a pig on a spit. that's why i put one on my sportster.
the dyna is just plain hotter, even now. there is stupid heat pouring off that thing, i'm preempting summer viscosity breakdown. i'll probably add fans once i can figure out a way to toggle them or have them automated like the ultracool system. i think the ultracool thermostat triggers the fans when it opens.
I have spent hundreds of hours working on getting the heat down on 07-up Twin Cams. They run too hot for their own good. I have found the following to be effective on every 07-up TC, whether air cooled, or a wethead.
These are in no particular order-
1. A Jagg oil cooler. Jaggs will provide 30-40% more cooling than the HD brand of the same size.
2. Tank Lift is good for 10-15* drop in engine temp (which will drop oil temps)
3. On Dynas & Softails, a coil relocation will lower the rear cylinder temp by 10*.
4. A good tune, not just fuel, but also tweaking the spark, this can help quite a bit with the heat
5. An air cleaner that does not feed oily, hot, oxygen depleted air into the engine. This helps with heat.
6. Exhaust that is not overly baffled...most any slip-on is better than stock, for heat.
7. A Reusable oil filter, reduce drag on engine (less heat) and has a tiny bit of cooling benefit off of the actual billet case.
8. NO fork wings or umbrella baffles when ambient temps are 70* or more.
9. Ward Parts Werks fans. These are good for 30-50* engine temp drop in stop & go, or just slow city riding. They are good for 10-15* engine temp drop at highway speeds.
Most stock and even "stage I" Twin Cams will have oil temps exceed 300* in hot ambient temps when being run at highway speeds or in slow moving traffic.
A good goal for oil temps is 230*, and if it starts going over 250*, that is getting close to a problem. At 270* damage is occurring.
No one thing will get the temps down to 230*, but when doing the items listed above, all of which do a little, you can ride as hard as you want, in ambient temps up to 110* and still keep your engine and oil temps down around 230*.
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