Hey all,

So I picked up a Streetbob at the start of this season. I started on an 883 last season, and never had any problems shifting. When I first got on the bob, I had some issues downshifting, but I figure that's just due to me needing to figure out the spots on a new bike. Recently, I've been having some other problems.

-I seem to find neutral quite often when shifting to 2nd. This wasn't an issue at first, but is more common now. Possibly me not hitting it right, but I did a lap and just shifted in and out of first, and it didn't seem like using the same amount of force every time solved the problem. It tends to jerk quite a bit from first to second, and has made a loud clunk a few times.

-I tried downshifting from second to first, and got stuck in neutral. It would click a few times but wouldn't find first, then when it did it made a really hard click.

-I was riding in 4th, and my gauge was telling me I was in 6th.

Any thoughts?

 

What year, and how many miles on it? The gauge being off could be a separate electrical issue. My first guess with issues like you're having is clutch adjustment. If you don't have a service manual, pick one up at the dealer for 50-60 bucks. Clutch adjustment won't cost anything if you have the tools (a 1/2 and a 9/16 wrench for the cable, a T27 Torx driver for the derby cover screws, an allen wrench - I wanna say 5/16? - for the clutch pack, and an 11/16 offset wrench for the jamnut on the clutch adjuster), and will solve shifting problems if they're the result of a dragging clutch.

There could be an issue with the shift drum and shift forks, which might explain why the gauge is incorrect, but adjust the clutch first. Are you having issues with the bike jumping out of gear?

 

It's a 2007 with 30 000 plus on it. It hasn't jumped out of gear at all that I've noticed. I do notice that there is a slight whine or like a wind down noise when I shift down to first. It showing 6 when I was in 4 or 5 was like a one time thing, hasn't happened again.

We did have the transmission completely open when I first got the bike to install the mid controls, everything seemed fine and was torqued to the manual.

I should also add that when I got the bike back in April, I had the clutch looked at by a shop.

 

You had the tranny open or the primary? I mean, did you see the shifter, mainshaft, and countershaft with all the gears on them, or two very big gears (stator in the front and clutch in the rear) with a double-row chain linking them?

It sounds like clutch adjustment to me. Even if the clutch checked out when the shop looked at it, it may have worn since then to the point that it needs an adjustment. It's a simple process if that's the case. That's what I'd do first, even if something else was suspect, just to eliminate it as a possibility.

Start at the cable, break the jamnut loose using the 9/16 wrench on the nut and 1/2 wrench on the cable adjuster. Collapse the cable all the way (no threads showing on the adjuster), then take off the derby cover. Break the clutch adjuster jamnut loose with the 11/16 wrench. Take the allen wrench (still not positive on the size, still wanna say 5/16) and slowly run the adjuster in until you feel a little bit of resistance - not much. This is critical, because the resistance you feel is the ball-and-ramp mechanism. If you run it in beyond that point, the clutch will slip while you ride, which will result in less power getting to the tranny, and burnt up clutch plates. Back off the adjuster (I think it's 1/2-3/4 turn on a Big Twin - I'd have to check), and then hold the adjuster with the allen wrench while you snug the jamnut with the 11/16 wrench. Don't put the derby cover on yet, in case you want to readjust it when you're done.
Go back to the cable, and back the cable adjuster off to decrease how much free play you have at the clutch lever. Keep going until you're happy with the free play. There's a spec on it, but as long as the clutch engages completely when you release the lever, and disengages completely when you pull the lever all the way in, it's just personal preference. That done, tighten the jamnut on the cable while you hold the adjuster with the 1/2 wrench, grab the lever a bunch of times to make sure you're happy with it, then either redo the whole thing or put the derby cover on, let it warm up a minute, and test ride it.

 

A good rule of thumb, is no more than the thickness of a dime, between the lever and the lever mount... for the amount of play to have in the lever.

 

Yeah my mistake, we had the primary open. Will look into this today, thanks for the point by point help here. I always worry that I'm being hard on my shifting. I'm getting a tach installed, but are their any pointers you can give me to make my tranny last?

 

Think I found a problem. There isn't any resistance on the clutch adjuster. I spun until I met a bit of resistance, then tried to tighten the nut. I snugged the nut up, but when I used a box wrench to tighten it, it just spun. The threaded piece just spins and doesn't seem to stop at all.

I can freely spin the allan key to tighten it, but it won't tighten at all. It won't pull out easily though, would actually have to spin it out.

 

Dollars to donuts you've stripped the threads in your clutch release plate. I've had it happen before.

The locking nut does not take much to snug it. Something like 75 100 inch/pounds... much more over than that and you risk the clutch pushrod stripping the threads right out of it.

or....

You are not holding the allen wrench/ pushrod, while tightening the jam nut.....

 

I think it was already stripped. I barely felt any resistance, and didn't even get a chance to torque it. I read the manual before saying 75-100, and it wouldn't tighten at all. Might explain why my clutch wasn't engaging. Guess I need a new clutch release plate

 

Yep.. check the threads on your clutch pushrod too... they may have been 'abused' as well.

37903-90 RELEASE PLATE
37090-98A END, CLUTCH PUSH ROD - LEFT SIDE

But hey, it's an easy fix