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Slight Throttle Issue

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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 11:52 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by TinCupChalice
Can't find it? Wow, glad I stocked up; that was my go-to chain lube.
I have several friends who have been buying this at Lowes as their preferred chain lube, and they have all recently reported that it seems to have disapeared...

Hearsay, so far...
 
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 01:33 PM
  #22  
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As I sit here "working" (LMAO), a thought came to me but it can be way out there. The diameter of the ISO grips is definitely bigger than the stock grips. Is there any chance the idle cable is too short and just can't be adjusted correctly? I just can't get out of my head that once I put the new throttle grip on, and I adjusted the throttle cable to touch the throttle stop, trying to take up slack on the idle was difficult. Not sure the diameter would be that much of a difference.

I guess I am basically just going to take it all apart. Does anyone know where I can find a part number for the screws the hold the master cylinder on the bars? I know the top one is a little stripped and I am afraid if I keep dicking arround I will really have my ***** in a salad shooter when that fully strips. I'd like to have some on hand.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 01:39 PM
  #23  
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The little ones that go into the switch housings are 10-24 x 1/2 BHCS gr.5 torx drive (HD #3658)
The big ones on the lever clamps are 1/4-20 x 1 1/8 BHCS gr.5 torx (HD # 4132)

Dealership should have some. They're cheap. Should be less than $0.50 each.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 01:43 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by cggorman
The little ones that go into the switch housings are 10-24 x 1/2 BHCS gr.5 torx drive (HD #3658)
The big ones on the lever clamps are 1/4-20 x 1 1/8 BHCS gr.5 torx (HD # 4132)

Dealership should have some. They're cheap. Should be less than $0.50 each.
Thanks a ton man!!! Very much appreciated!
 
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 03:14 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Twospot
As I sit here "working" (LMAO), a thought came to me but it can be way out there. The diameter of the ISO grips is definitely bigger than the stock grips. Is there any chance the idle cable is too short and just can't be adjusted correctly? I just can't get out of my head that once I put the new throttle grip on, and I adjusted the throttle cable to touch the throttle stop, trying to take up slack on the idle was difficult. Not sure the diameter would be that much of a difference.

I guess I am basically just going to take it all apart. Does anyone know where I can find a part number for the screws the hold the master cylinder on the bars? I know the top one is a little stripped and I am afraid if I keep dicking arround I will really have my ***** in a salad shooter when that fully strips. I'd like to have some on hand.

Unless HD went real cheap on your '15 you should have more than enough length to the throttle and idle cables. I'm running 2" riser extensions and there's enough extra throttle and idle cable to go another 3". I really think you've got a binding issue in the cables themselves or in the switch housing or, it's an adjustment issue. After you've got maximum slack on the cables and the top of the switch cover off quirt the cable lube down in to the cables and work them back and forth; I watch at the carb/throttle body and keep squirting in lubricant until it's flowing out out of the cables. From there start with the idle cable, no slack with the throttle held closed. Later tonight you're going to post you've got it working right... just a feeling
 
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 03:46 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by TinCupChalice
Unless HD went real cheap on your '15 you should have more than enough length to the throttle and idle cables. I'm running 2" riser extensions and there's enough extra throttle and idle cable to go another 3". I really think you've got a binding issue in the cables themselves or in the switch housing or, it's an adjustment issue. After you've got maximum slack on the cables and the top of the switch cover off quirt the cable lube down in to the cables and work them back and forth; I watch at the carb/throttle body and keep squirting in lubricant until it's flowing out out of the cables. From there start with the idle cable, no slack with the throttle held closed. Later tonight you're going to post you've got it working right... just a feeling
Ok I was doing throttle first because that's what the manual said. I'll try anything at this point! Hopefully I will be posting that message!
 
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 03:51 PM
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That's how I do it too. I take the air cleaner off and watch the slide in the carb while I work the throttle tube with one hand and the adjuster with the other. Full slack in both cables. Hold throttle tube closed, adjust idle cable until it starts to open the slide, then back it off a bit. Then I do the same for full throttle...hold grip to wide open and adjust slack out of the cable. Check action through full throttle range and steering lock-to-lock. Sometimes it takes one or two adjustment tweaks from there but I've always been happy with the result.
 

Last edited by cggorman; Jun 23, 2016 at 03:54 PM.
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 05:44 PM
  #28  
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Proof my Harley dealership sucks... No cable lube at all they have to order it! WTF? They did have the torq bolts though
 
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 07:04 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by TinCupChalice
Unless HD went real cheap on your '15 you should have more than enough length to the throttle and idle cables. I'm running 2" riser extensions and there's enough extra throttle and idle cable to go another 3". I really think you've got a binding issue in the cables themselves or in the switch housing or, it's an adjustment issue. After you've got maximum slack on the cables and the top of the switch cover off quirt the cable lube down in to the cables and work them back and forth; I watch at the carb/throttle body and keep squirting in lubricant until it's flowing out out of the cables. From there start with the idle cable, no slack with the throttle held closed. Later tonight you're going to post you've got it working right... just a feeling
So this is what I got. First pic is showing the adjusters are full down. Second pic is a shot inside the switch housing facing towards the rear of the bike from the front. The kinked cable is the idle cable right below where the ferrul (I'm sure its spelled wrong) is in the hole. Third pic is showing with everything loosened this is fully closed. If I roll the throttle forward to place it in the fully closed position and start turning the idle adjuster I can get to the point where the adjuster fully unscrews and there is still a tiny bit of free play. So I screwed it back on a bit. Then I went ahead and adjusted the throttle cable. By the time I had gotten it almost to the throttle stop there was zero return, it was WAY too tight. I know this is far from rocket science but I can't seem to get this right.

Maybe it's just that kink. I guess I would need to replace that cable. I'm going to try two other powersport stores that are around the area and see if they have cable lube tomorrow. If so I'll try and see if it makes it any better.




 
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 08:34 PM
  #30  
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You'll get it! Thanks for being patient. That's the key.

Try this series of videos. I linked only to the 1st in the series.

 
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