EFI & Power Vision Questions
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 508
Likes: 31
From: California
EFI & Power Vision Questions
Hi dudes, I've had my 2014 FXDB for about 10 days now. Only has about 4500 miles on it. I rode the bike totally stock during that time to get a feel for the engine and just completed all my stage 1 mods in one day yesterday.
I've never owned an EFI Harley before this one and have a few questions:
1) I don't know how else to describe this, but when I take my hand off the throttle, it seems to decelerate/lose momentum WAY faster than my carbed Dyna. Normal?
2) Seems to be a lot more vibration on decel. It's also a noticeably different sort of vibration than at idle or acceleration.
3) Is it possible to have a "dead spot" on the RPM range? The bike seems to hiccup/stutter/flatten out at 2600 RPM no matter what gear I'm in. Problem is that I am often cruising near that number so it's weirdly noticeable.
I installed the Power Vision last night and although the bike is night and day different (BETTER) in every other aspect with the PV, these 3 issues persist. Just looking for some feedback as to whether these are common or not. Thanks!
I've never owned an EFI Harley before this one and have a few questions:
1) I don't know how else to describe this, but when I take my hand off the throttle, it seems to decelerate/lose momentum WAY faster than my carbed Dyna. Normal?
2) Seems to be a lot more vibration on decel. It's also a noticeably different sort of vibration than at idle or acceleration.
3) Is it possible to have a "dead spot" on the RPM range? The bike seems to hiccup/stutter/flatten out at 2600 RPM no matter what gear I'm in. Problem is that I am often cruising near that number so it's weirdly noticeable.
I installed the Power Vision last night and although the bike is night and day different (BETTER) in every other aspect with the PV, these 3 issues persist. Just looking for some feedback as to whether these are common or not. Thanks!
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 508
Likes: 31
From: California
Ok just watched and still have some questions -
I selected a Dynojet Pre-configured tune for my setup. I chose the closest tune for what I have (2-1, high perf intake) and she runs pretty well with that tune, despite the issues I mentioned in the OP. In the video, he is using the autotune feature on top of the original tune, i.e. the one set from the factory that I am no longer running.
Should I start by running the Autotune on top of the pre-configured tune I'm currently using (not factory original)? And each time I run Autotune, do I run the next session on top of the previous session (i.e. use the same slot)?
I selected a Dynojet Pre-configured tune for my setup. I chose the closest tune for what I have (2-1, high perf intake) and she runs pretty well with that tune, despite the issues I mentioned in the OP. In the video, he is using the autotune feature on top of the original tune, i.e. the one set from the factory that I am no longer running.
Should I start by running the Autotune on top of the pre-configured tune I'm currently using (not factory original)? And each time I run Autotune, do I run the next session on top of the previous session (i.e. use the same slot)?
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,758
Likes: 953
From: Out West
Yes again.
I would:
Autotune the one you chose.
When done with the ride save/export the tune you just AT'd.
You flash your bike each time with the new tune.
Repeat 4-5 times and you should be pretty good.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 8,758
From: Galt's Gulch - MI
Suede Blue Man has you covered but a few more tricks: be sure the bike is fully warmed up before you begin an auto tune run. The bike will run poorly during the run so don't be surprised. If you can, mount the PV on your bars and monitor the run, watch the cells fill with data. They'll go from green to a yellow/orange, then to red when they max out. Try and adjust your riding to fill as many of the cells red as you can.
When you're done with the run don't use the ignition, shut down the bike with the kill switch and leave the ignition on. Stop the auto tune, save the new tune and export the new tune before you turn off the ignition.
When you're done with the run don't use the ignition, shut down the bike with the kill switch and leave the ignition on. Stop the auto tune, save the new tune and export the new tune before you turn off the ignition.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,666
Likes: 133
From: TEXAS
you should not have any dead spots or hiccups with stage 1 efi bike.
i would try a couple auto tune runs.
I have a '14 lowrider with stage 1 air cleaner, slip on stage 1 muffler (with cat) and power vision and it runs smooth and consistent. My tune was loaded by the people i bought the tuner from, FUEL MOTO.
I hope to try the auto tune myself soon, thinking of removing the cat and adjusting it with the auto tune.
good luck
i would try a couple auto tune runs.
I have a '14 lowrider with stage 1 air cleaner, slip on stage 1 muffler (with cat) and power vision and it runs smooth and consistent. My tune was loaded by the people i bought the tuner from, FUEL MOTO.
I hope to try the auto tune myself soon, thinking of removing the cat and adjusting it with the auto tune.
good luck
Last edited by hell hound; Jun 28, 2016 at 04:07 PM. Reason: forgot stuff
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Club Member
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: Inland NW
Lots of good advice. It took me a long time, and several tries before I actually ready the damned instructions.
Doing it fully warm is my best advice, as mentioned above.
I still have an issue down low during cold take off, and I am hoping the dyno tuner can help me.
Doing it fully warm is my best advice, as mentioned above.
I still have an issue down low during cold take off, and I am hoping the dyno tuner can help me.
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