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Cooling a WG

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Old Mar 24, 2017 | 10:26 AM
  #21  
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I agree with cggorman, this is a great thread. I have been pondering over different methods for cooling the oil down, can't wait to see the results and how it looks.


The cooling tubes, is the part you trimmed down just a plastic or rubber that covers a metal tube or is it all metal? Would like to know the process you used to trim them.


Maybe when you're all done, can you put together an itemized list of parts and maybe where to get them, along with a rough cost to complete the build.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2017 | 10:49 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Mchad
Never liked the idea of barb fittings for oil under pressure. I know many use them just fine, but that's just me. Was very pleased with AN fittings on my Ultracool oil cooler. Not a drop of a leak. Was a bit nervous tightening them, as there seems to be a shortage of torque specs, at least when I was installing. Mostly "1/4 turn past the point of contact" which I really didn't like. But it's worked so far. When I pick up the filter relo kit I'll get the one with AN as well. Don't recall the maker at the moment though.
this is the relo kit you want...

http://www.3guyz.com/vtwin-motorcycl...tegory=1575036
 
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Old Mar 24, 2017 | 11:26 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by blueangel73
I agree with cggorman, this is a great thread.

I have been pondering over different methods for cooling the oil down, can't wait to see the results and how it looks.
Thank You Sir

One thing I am absolutely committed to - is keeping my opinion the hell out of this..., and allowing the data (temp deltas) to speak for itself

Originally Posted by blueangel73
The cooling tubes, is the part you trimmed down just a plastic or rubber that covers a metal tube or is it all metal?

Would like to know the process you used to trim them.
Tubes are 100% PC'd aluminum

Used a horizontal band saw - but a hack saw would work just as well

Originally Posted by blueangel73
Maybe when you're all done, can you put together an itemized list of parts and maybe where to get them, along with a rough cost to complete the build.

Rounding - $650 bucks.., which includes the reusable oil filter


Wimmer = $300.00

https://www.wimmercustomcycle.com/Oil-Cooler-Dual.php


Hose / connectors / adapters - Summit..., $100

Jegs / Smileys..., or any of a dozen other sources also work

https://www.summitracing.com/search?...eyword=-6%20an

All -6 AN

Hose - 10'
-6 - 90 degree females - qty 4
3/8 NPT to -6 straight - qty 4
1/4 NPT to -6 straight - qty 2 (these fit into the oil filter off set)
-6 straight - qty 2 (then after mock up - have the below on order to allow for better hose routing from the oil filter off set to the oil coolers)

-6 an female hose - 45 degree - qty 1
-6 an female hose - 90 degree - qty 1
-6 an female hose - 120 degree - qty 1
-6 an female hose - 150 degree - qty 1



Oil Filter offset - Amazon..., $150

Amazon Amazon


Oil filter - Amazon.., $100

Amazon Amazon




Ghost
 
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Old Mar 24, 2017 | 08:03 PM
  #24  
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There's not really much surface area on those "cooling tubes", compare to a real oil cooler. It might be slightly better than nothing though.

Also, one can often get higher flow from flexible hose bends, than from AN fittings.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2017 | 11:27 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Ghost_13
<SNIP>Was thinking on this last night - and want to do a straw pole

I do have a digital cooking thermometer - and plan to stick that down the oil fill hole


So - where should I measure temps (w/ the pyrometer)

How long after shutdown..., and within what window of time frame

Nemo

Not to put you on the spot - but you're good at this sort of ****

Any ideas..., and anyone else w/ an idea - also chime in

We get some sort of consensus - then we can use it as a valid comparison

=============

Then..., whether X amount of temp delta is worth it.., or not - is an individual call

Ghost
Hi Ghost,
Just saw this, sorry I'm late to the party,

(1) Where should I measure temps (w/ the pyrometer)
Side of the oil pan where you can get a straight shot at it with the pyrometer, a black surface is preferred, measure the same spot every time.

(2) How long after shutdown..., and within what window of time frame
1 to 2 minute after shutdown.

(3) I do have a digital cooking thermometer - and plan to stick that down the oil fill hole
Good plan, 2 to 3 minutes after shutdown.

Actually its more important to do your temperature sampling at the same time, every time, in the same order for the most accurate data collection. Don't worry about the instruments being dead nuts accurate as your looking a before and after modification temperature change, the differential temperature will most likely be very accurate.

That's all I have... Mike
 
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 09:44 AM
  #26  
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This'll be the testing

Pyro on the oil pan - same points pre / post - 1 to 2 min after shutdown

Cooking thermo probe down the oil fill - pre / post - 2 to 3 min after shutdown

Lookin to see what / if any - temp delta exists

Thank You Both

Ghost


Originally Posted by cggorman
Oil pan or crankcase would probably be a good place to get a decent IR temp reading.

Since we're only concerned with the delta, I'm not sure it makes a whole lot of difference as long as the pre- & post- measurement parameters are the same.

Originally Posted by Nemosengineer

(1) Side of the oil pan where you can get a straight shot at it with the pyrometer, a black surface is preferred, measure the same spot every time.

(2) 1 to 2 minute after shutdown.

(3) digital cooking thermometer - Good plan, 2 to 3 minutes after shutdown.

Actually its more important to do your temperature sampling at the same time, every time, in the same order for the most accurate data collection. Don't worry about the instruments being dead nuts accurate as your looking a before and after modification temperature change, the differential temperature will most likely be very accurate.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 02:18 PM
  #27  
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This unit was given to me from a friend (FREE). He had no use for it an if I could make it work, go for it. A couple of S S U clamps and about an hour to install it works. It also runs 10-15% cooler now.



Cooling a WG-oil-filter-relocate-001.jpg
 

Last edited by fxdli; Mar 25, 2017 at 02:27 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 06:07 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Warp Factor
There's not really much surface area on those "cooling tubes", compare to a real oil cooler. It might be slightly better than nothing though.

Also, one can often get higher flow from flexible hose bends, than from AN fittings.
After reading your post...., I was going to blow it off...., chalk it up to ignorance / or as you being one of the many bullshitters occupying this forum

Yeah..., I was

===================

Originally Posted by Warp Factor
There's not really much surface area on those "cooling tubes", compare to a real oil cooler.

It might be slightly better than nothing though..
Calculate the surface area..., these two finned tubes..., have - in Sq inches

Here's some help

Need tube length..., diameter...., depth of fins..., # of fins..., fin thickness


Now pick another oil cooling system..., or pick a couple - completely your choice

Calculate the surface area of that one.., or those - in Sq inches

Post up the results and let's see how they compare

===================

Cylinders..., especially finned ones - are very deceptive in their surface area

Why I went the direction I did - stealthier install..., while providing ample surface area for cooling

The results of testing pre / post - I plan to run - will either prove I was correct..., or full of ****



Post your calculated surface areas in Sq inch..., of each cooling system..., and let's see if you are correct..., or full of ****

========================

Originally Posted by Warp Factor
Also, one can often get higher flow from flexible hose bends, than from AN fittings.
Not full flow ANs - which I posted..., are being used



========

Aside

I don't mind disagreeing comments..., hell..., I don't even mind being called a stupid M' Fer for the way I'm approaching this

But if you do..., least have your **** together..., and be able to back up your mouth

And/ or.., be prepared to offer up a better thought / idea / approach

Just spouting **** - serves no one..., nor any purpose


Ghost
 

Last edited by Ghost_13; Mar 25, 2017 at 06:39 PM. Reason: Fixed spelling
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 06:10 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by fxdli
It also runs 10-15% cooler now
Care to quantify that for us

Pre / post measurements..., the delta

And the testing process


Thx
Ghost
 
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 06:14 PM
  #30  
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Check out these bad dogs...





 

Last edited by cggorman; Mar 25, 2017 at 06:18 PM.
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