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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I think I know the cause of this already, but thought I'd check in before touching wrench to bike....
But I just got my 09 FXDF out from winter storage. At the end of last season I had done a little research and talked to a guy or two here about potentially feeling some new vibrations in my footpegs at lower RPMS (mainly during engine braking). I measured the gap on the front motor mount and of course found it was making contact. A member here advised me to not only deal with the front mount, but also align everything. Well, the snow flew quicker than I could get to it so I haven't done a thing.
That brings me to yesterday. I can definitely feel the extra/new vibrations in my handlbars. Makes the mirrors vibrate to the point they aren't useful. Bike seems fine otherwise, just lower rpm and especially while downshifting and engine braking.
Mine only does it while its sitting there idling, at cruising speed its just fine. Every Harley Ive ever owned does it at idle so its what I call normal. For it to do it at cruising speed it almost sounds like youve got a dead spark plug?
Well, I'd think if it was a dead plug I'd notice it at other times as well.
So, I'm basing my experience on what it "used" to feel like, which can be biased...and to what my wife's street bob feels like, which also is biased. But something isn't quite right because it shakes worse than her 07 sporty did. But when cruising or accelerating shes smooth.
I did go back in my old threads and it appears from what I learned this is the case. The alignment procedure sure looks daunting though.
Try to ride more, check plugs. Also, I noticed on my bike that top clamp was pretty loose - got better after torquing to specs. Motor mount is usual suspect too
Not an expert by any means but I also have a FXDF and wrench a little, if you have performance exhaust and AC with a fuel management module make sure it still has a good map,sometimes the devices fail and things get rough. I just installed a new system on mine and it took a few mins to work itself out and now it runs smoother, but it had excessive vibrations before I tuned it.
Increased vibrations and shuddering on decel? Bet you a 6 pack that front isolator is gone Time for a new front engine mount, a great time to install the Predator instead of the OEM mount.
Order from the U.K. site; I had my Predator in 3 days FedEx international priority; with the exchange rate, exchange fee, and shipping is was $233.33.
WideGlideCVO was experiencing increased vibrations and shuddering, he posted images of the condition of his front mount when he replaced it with a Predator in this thread: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...l#post16085378
HD issued a service bulletin in '12 on Dyna vibration and it shows you how to check your front mount to see if the rubber isolator is contacting the engine bracket...
tin cup! you were the guy that helped me troubleshoot last fall some. The bike only has 13k miles, so I'd be rather less than happy about a primary chain or crank issues. I do have intake and exhaust and a fuelpak, but she does not miss a beat or have any flat spots or deaccel popping - so I'd be leaning towards not being a fuel/intake/exhaust issue. Like I said, cruising and under load shes liquid smooth, just low rpms and esp on deaccel shes shaking my hands.
I think the first thing I must do it address that front isolator. I know for a fact there is no gap.
In that bulletin, step 9a, it looks like they say to loosen the bolts, move the motor up, re-tighten... I'm assuming the bolts between the motor and the isolator right? (not the isolator to the frame...)
Last edited by apblingAEW; Apr 11, 2017 at 12:35 PM.
Oh yea, if there's no gap and the rubber isolator is in direct contact with the engine bracket you'll experience all sorts of decel shuddering; check out those images that WideGlideCVO posted in the link in my previous reply.
Changing out the isolator isn't a tough job and if you need to replace your front, you might as well go with the upgrade
Edit:
In that bulletin, step 9a, it looks like they say to loosen the bolts, move the motor up, re-tighten... I'm assuming the bolts between the motor and the isolator right? (not the isolator to the frame...)
Correct, the engine bracket bolts; I suppose you could try it but to me that's just temporary fix if it did work, once those isolators start to deform and collapse they never quite spring back again. If you're going to support the powertrain and near remove the engine bracket bolts you're only 2 bolts away from removing the isolator completely at that point. I get why HD would do it that way, but a replacement mount is the proper course...
Last edited by TinCupChalice; Apr 11, 2017 at 12:45 PM.
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