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I replaced my stator just last week and the instructions are right. Use a breaker bar on the compensator bolt and the clutch hub nut. An impact can put hard torsional stresses on both the crankshaft and transmission output shaft. With a good breaker bar and having your bike in a wheel chock, strapped down firmly you won't have a problem. Just a bit of initial effort to break them loose.
Will also need to remove the clutch - remember it is left hand threaded
eta - when you install the new stator - RTV the grommet - otherwise it prone to leak
Also remember to use red loctite on the bolt..., and torque in stages..., to 150 FLbs
Ghost
Ghost I know you didn't mean to misinform but the torque spec is bike and application dependent. He could have a late model compensator on a 2006 FXDI which takes I believe 175ft-lb final torque.
Ghost I know you didn't mean to misinform but the torque spec is bike and application dependent. He could have a late model compensator on a 2006 FXDI which takes I believe 175ft-lb final torque.
I F'd up by 10 FLbs / whereas mattVA F'd up by 35 FLbs
Will edit my original post to reflect proper torque setting
Ghost
Last edited by Ghost_13; Apr 18, 2017 at 05:44 PM.
Reason: Fix this crap once and for all
While you got the comp sprocket out, throw it in the recycling bin and install the Baker Comp Sprocket! You should also recycle that chain tensioner and install the Baker Attitude Adjuster.
While you got the comp sprocket out, throw it in the recycling bin and install the Baker Comp Sprocket! You should also recycle that chain tensioner and install the Baker Attitude Adjuster.
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