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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
A bit more frequently than you'd think The front is prone to failure due to poor vehicle/engine alignment and oil contamination when removing the oil filter; the oil degrades the rubber of the isolator. The rear seems to hold up better; but the front is a problem child.
I lost my first front at 600 miles on the ODO due to alignment; WGlide was at 1k when his needed replacement. The front is a known wear item.
Do yourself a real favor, change out the OEM front mount for a Predator mount; that mount belongs on every Dyna It's properly engineered and designed to not be affected by oil contamination. Order from the U.K. site; it's cheaper due to the exchange rate and you'll receive it faster via FedEx international priority. You will notice the difference in straight line stability and the neutral/no pushing in the corners with the Predator.
Changing out the front mount isn't a hard job to do, and the difference between the Predator and the OEM is night and day...
A bit more frequently than you'd think The front is prone to failure due to poor vehicle/engine alignment and oil contamination when removing the oil filter; the oil degrades the rubber of the isolator. The rear seems to hold up better; but the front is a problem child.
I lost my first front at 600 miles on the ODO due to alignment; WGlide was at 1k when his needed replacement. The front is a known wear item.
Do yourself a real favor, change out the OEM front mount for a Predator mount; that mount belongs on every Dyna It's properly engineered and designed to not be affected by oil contamination. Order from the U.K. site; it's cheaper due to the exchange rate and you'll receive it faster via FedEx international priority. You will notice the difference in straight line stability and the neutral/no pushing in the corners with the Predator.
Changing out the front mount isn't a hard job to do, and the difference between the Predator and the OEM is night and day...
Some last much longer than others. My original 99 front mount lasted 16 years and 65k miles. Why? No idea.
I got over 40K out of the original mounts but when the vibes got worse new front helped. Bike is a 116 (4 inch bore x 4 5/8 stroke) Tried a Predator, vibes got worse.. Went back to stock.. Changing the back and shimming the front got it to where it was the best.
Hey Tin, how can I tell if my motor mount is bad? I haven't noticed any handling problems (8,000 miles so far on my 16 LRS).
Begin with a visual inspection of the mount; check to see if the rubber is contacting the engine bracket. If the rubber is contacting the engine bracket excessive vibrations and decel shuddering can be expected. If your mount is saturated with old engine oil that is another way they degrade.
HD did have a service bulletin on the front mount, it will show you how to check your front out. If you did find the rubber is contacting the engine bracket I'd just change out the mount; HD's solution is a band-aid
Got about 30k on the first one, and another 30k on the second. Realistically it should have been replaced both times at about 20k... because the first time, it put such stress on my V&H BR2-1, that when the engine 'fell' it broke all but one of the mounts for my front header heat shield. The second time, the engine was close to hitting the frame...
Pictures of the pos stock isolator, and the answer: Predator.
So does anyone have 30 to 40K on the predator? Still working good?
30k, I am about 10% of the way there, but I just put mine on back in February and I was deployed for two of the past 5 months. The riding I have done since this change is night and day handling wise. I changed my original mount out for this at 55k miles, I didn't feel my mount had failed because I couldn't visually tell it had dropped the engine forward, however when I made the change I could tell because I had to lift the motor about a quarter inch or so to get the frame mounting holes to line up.
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