130 hp 117
#1
130 hp 117
Guys,
As I'm doing research on motor mods for a LS 117, it seems like a 120 hp +/- and 120 tq +/- is the norm for putting on a good exhaust and dyno tuning the 117 stage 4 kit. Guys raising the compression to 10.8 seem to be getting 124/124 +/-. Is that the max with the 259e cams? Is there any mods you can do to hit 130 hp with that cam, or is it a matter of a larger stick to up the rpm and get 130 hp that way?
Once you hit 130/130, what other mods to the bike are required? Will the LS clutch hold? Is crank welding required? Bearing and oiling mods? I seem to have a hard time locating at what point certain mods are required.
Thanks,
Dave
As I'm doing research on motor mods for a LS 117, it seems like a 120 hp +/- and 120 tq +/- is the norm for putting on a good exhaust and dyno tuning the 117 stage 4 kit. Guys raising the compression to 10.8 seem to be getting 124/124 +/-. Is that the max with the 259e cams? Is there any mods you can do to hit 130 hp with that cam, or is it a matter of a larger stick to up the rpm and get 130 hp that way?
Once you hit 130/130, what other mods to the bike are required? Will the LS clutch hold? Is crank welding required? Bearing and oiling mods? I seem to have a hard time locating at what point certain mods are required.
Thanks,
Dave
#2
My 117 lrs with pv, and fat cat is currently at 105/120 on auto tune. You can always add headwork and dyno tune to bump those numbers up higher. Bumping the compression ratio is gonna help add power, but you may be better off with another cam that works better with headwork and higher compression.
A lot of debate on crank welding, I chose not to. I do suggest upgrading the compensator to a baker, and upgrading the entire clutch assembly (still on my to do list) if you're building 130+. It's also a good idea to upgrade the primary chain and swituch to a manual tensioner. Beyond that I'd leave it alone.
A lot of debate on crank welding, I chose not to. I do suggest upgrading the compensator to a baker, and upgrading the entire clutch assembly (still on my to do list) if you're building 130+. It's also a good idea to upgrade the primary chain and swituch to a manual tensioner. Beyond that I'd leave it alone.
I didn't upgrade the bearings but there's a thread on here about modifying the holes for the oil breathers that I'm going to next time I have some free time
Last edited by Nickd2689; 12-20-2017 at 11:36 AM.
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Last edited by cvaria; 12-20-2017 at 11:53 AM.
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#8
#9
Weld the darn crank you’re already halfway there when it’s gonna be disassembled especially if you’re aiming for 130
all depends if you have a competent builder who can build a bike that matches your riding style
and yea you’ll need to upgrade almost everything think about it you’re taking stock components past their design limits and hoping they’ll run like normal.. won’t last for long
all depends if you have a competent builder who can build a bike that matches your riding style
and yea you’ll need to upgrade almost everything think about it you’re taking stock components past their design limits and hoping they’ll run like normal.. won’t last for long
#10
Mine made 133 hp and 139 ft lbs in the break in tune, it's going to Roeder Racing in the spring. Here's my current setup.
TMan Street Performer Heads
S&S Roller Rockers
Mahle +6cc domed pistons
TMan adjustable push rods
S&S tappets with HL2T limiter
TMan 660sm cams
Welded, balanced and pro plugged crank from Darkhorse with a set of competition rods
R&B Racing Pro Stock Pipe
Barnett Scorpion Clutch with Red springs and billet basket
10.8:1
Attachment 580262
TMan Street Performer Heads
S&S Roller Rockers
Mahle +6cc domed pistons
TMan adjustable push rods
S&S tappets with HL2T limiter
TMan 660sm cams
Welded, balanced and pro plugged crank from Darkhorse with a set of competition rods
R&B Racing Pro Stock Pipe
Barnett Scorpion Clutch with Red springs and billet basket
10.8:1
Attachment 580262