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I had a ghost drip like this on my 2003 Low Rider. used the UV dye and black light and traced it back to a bad o-ring on the sensor (speed sensor?) on the right side below the battery towards the back of the engine on the top. might be worth trying the dye. it is cheap enough, and you can narrow it down to one spot for sure. this guy right here, leaked and ran down across the bottom of the pan and dripped. a spot about like a 50 cent piece every time.
Last edited by nashspu; Nov 3, 2019 at 12:20 AM.
Reason: added picture
Not to sound like a dick, but, first thing you should do when you have a dead battery is determine whether the problem is the battery or the charging system...
I assume you checked the leads on battery that they were tight.
Yes indeed. In fact I disconnected completely and pulled it out to check for cracks and leaks. Not a thing. Tested at 10.6v. So there is some juice there,
Originally Posted by John CC
Not to sound like a dick, but, first thing you should do when you have a dead battery is determine whether the problem is the battery or the charging system...
🤨. I did mention the stator or regulator could both be bad. I'm sort of stumped though because if the battery has 10.6v, the headlight and ash lights should come on when I twist the key. So I'm left chasing electrical continuity from the ignition key to the ignition breaker, then through the rest of the system until I get a short. Plus replacing a alternator/stator doesn't really appeal to me. But alas it must be done as money doesn't grow on trees and I cant afford the local hourly rates just to chase this down.
So question for the group. Can a voltage regulator failing at 85 mph, cause the stator to surge the electrical system and pop the 30amp circuit breaker? Also, if it is a possibility, is that a replacement item or can I reset it? I can not find any reference to its operation in any of my manuals.
First is to determine if the battery is bad. Take the battery to your local auto parts store and have it tested. My old RK did about the same thing as you describe (quit going down the road --- then nothing worked) this summer and it turned out to be the battery had gone bad.
I had a voltage regulator go bad, bikes always on a tender so battery's always charged.
Took a log ride (80 miles 1 way) and when I got to my turn around point the bike wouldn't start.
I carry a jump pack and got it home (80 miles back), 8.5 volts at the battery and 8.5 volts out of the charging system. Did the charging system tests, stator was good, so I replaced the voltage regulator.
All good now.
Forgot to add, I think having all the lights LED's reduced the load and helped me get it home. Only the stock TSM was acting up because it didn't have full voltage.
Instead of replacing stuff ***** nilly, follow a logical process. Do you have a service manual, procedures for test should be in there.
1. Will the battery bench charge and hold the charge at around 12.5 - 13.0 VDC once charged? If yes, then voltage reg/alt issue. If no, then a bad battery even if new (shorted cell).
2. If battery is good, install and test Voltage regular output, with engine running, battery charging should read 13.5 - 14.5 VDC. If no, then Voltage Reg issue or stator issue.
3 Test Stator/alt output or check for short to ground. Depends on the stator you have in your bike.
Well I am at work today and was unable t work on the ride yesterday (honey do list). I will check the circuit breaker then all the charging system components as I charge the battery up on the bench. The problem is the bike won't start at all right now. even thought there is juice in the battery (10.6v) not even an idiot light will come on. Ive checked all the leads from the battery and am at the electrical panel for my next round of inspection.
Progress notes to follow!!
Thank for your help and opinions.
Oh, and the darn thing is still leaking!!🤨. Go figure. Im fixit to drain the pan and look at the threads and o-ring groove of the bolt and hole threads and o-ring bevel. Just going to reuse the oil. It has 300 miles on it.
Oh, and the darn thing is still leaking!!🤨. Go figure. Im fixit to drain the pan and look at the threads and o-ring groove of the bolt and hole threads and o-ring bevel. Just going to reuse the oil. It has 300 miles on it.
Oh, and the darn thing is still leaking!!🤨. Go figure. Im fixit to drain the pan and look at the threads and o-ring groove of the bolt and hole threads and o-ring bevel. Just going to reuse the oil. It has 300 miles on it.
Pay a lot of attention to this area... Keep in mind that the drain plug is (obviously) located at the low point of the pan. That means that if anything above this area has a small leak traveling towards the ground, it will follow the surface to the lowest point and then drip. In other words, your drain plug may be leaking. Or not. There may be oil from a different source following an external path to the drain plug, and then dripping. Look carefully.
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