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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 04:10 PM
  #21  
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That said, you still need to verify that will run from the bowl. This will verify the rebuild. If it will run on starting fluid, but not from the gas in the bowl, you have a problem with the rebuild. Body gaskets, jets, bleeds, diaphragm, etc.

If it runs from the bowl but not from an attached line, you likely have a float/valve problem.

If it runs from an attached line, you have a tank or petcock problem.

Gotta work backwards and eliminate one possible problem at a time.
 

Last edited by cggorman; Feb 9, 2020 at 04:19 PM.
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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 04:22 PM
  #22  
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I will do that next week when I have some more time. For now I took the carb off again to make sure the vacuum line was hooked up correctly and it was. I will stuff a shop rag in for now. I will let you know of my progress,and thanks again Nic.
You know though I rebuilt that I while back and didn't have this problem.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 04:22 PM
  #23  
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I have seen rebuild kits come with body gaskets that have incorrect vacuum or fuel passage holes punched (or not) in them. ALWAYS compare new and old gaskets to ensure the correct holes. Sometimes passages are intentionally blocked by the gasket so you can't rely on the holes in the body casting.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 11:39 PM
  #24  
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I have to say be very careful with starter fluid. I personally would never use it. Way too volatile. Too much, or spray then crank can bent rods, crack pistons.
There are other safer alternatives. WD40 or brake cleaner. If you must use starter fliud be sure to spray while cranking.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 01:23 PM
  #25  
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Some (most? all?) vacuum petcocks have a "prime" function. If yours does, that's the same as "on" for a manual one. It's used to fill the empty float bowl. In fact, I've seen some with no off setting, just normal and prime.

Absent that, get a horse syringe and pull a vacuum on the line while cranking.

You may have another issue, though. If it ran for 10 seconds on starting fluid (I agree, that stuff is bad...) then the bowl should have fuel in it by now.
 

Last edited by John CC; Feb 10, 2020 at 01:25 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 01:48 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Blue Bob
I have to say be very careful with starter fluid. I personally would never use it. Way too volatile. Too much, or spray then crank can bent rods, crack pistons.
There are other safer alternatives. WD40 or brake cleaner. If you must use starter fliud be sure to spray while cranking.
Sorry Bend rods
 
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Old Feb 29, 2020 | 10:03 AM
  #27  
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Well after many phone calls and conversation I learned a bit. The vacuum line from the tank can get a hole in it after years and not allow enough vacuum. I was informed to blow into it and see if that might be the issue. It was not. I took it on my self to try sucking on it and gas flowed.
So I installed it again and tried to prime it. Wouldn't accept any fuel. Took it off again and tried blowing into the fuel intake, and there was the problem.The float for some reason wouldn't allow fuel in. Put the old float back in and it worked fine. Reinstalled and it started right up. Still isn't idling like I would like though. Also learned there is an idol adjustment screw on the front of the carb. That helped a bit, and also learned were the manifold hooks to the cylinder that there is a gasket that can go bad. A guy told me to spay so carb cleaner on it as it is running to see if the rpm rises.
Thanks again for your help. Nic
 
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