I want to get some 12" hangers for my bob.....only want to go two because I think it will fit me perfect and a bonus shouldnt need longer cables.....

my question is how easy is it to replace the hangers ...Ive mostly worked on cars and have never taken anything apart on a bike.......plus I'll prob change the grips also.......let me know how easy and approx how long for a rookie......

I have a manual but that doesnt say if something is a pain or not....

 

I want almost the exact same as as the factory just 2" higher.....what manufacture should be best??

 

I put bob bars on my superglide. Wasn't really a pain in the but, except one part. I had to change out the throttle/idle cables, f/brake line, and clutch cable. All went well until trying to get the throttle cable clip under the gas tank apart, THAT wasa PITA. Watch out for the switch housings, the little ferules can disappear on ya, and use a little wedge.popsicle stick to put between your f/brake lever and housing when ya take off that unit. If not you could damage the little switch. Theres a warning in the manual on that one. I think it took about three hours to do, if I remember correctly. I did have to pull some more of the wiring harness out of the frame, but there was enough.

 

any more input

 

Is your front brake line the hard line type? If so, you will need a new longer 1

 

I'll have to look at it tonight.....thanks

 

I put 16" on my bob and it wasn't too had at all. You shouldn't have to change the wiring harness, there was plenty under the backbone even to go up to 16". I would say the hardest part of the whole project was changing the clutch cable but even that wasn't too bad.

Rock

 

Get 2" higher risers and use the same apes you now have. Simple

 

For bars, I went with Paughco 1" Ape Hangers - 13" Dimpled(P/N 0601-0539) and only had to replace the brake line and banjo fittings. The brake line I used isRussell Renagade Universal 47"(P/N 1741-0085). The fittings are Russell 3/8” / 10mm banjo x #3 male 90° (P/N 1742-0017) and Russell 12mm banjo x -3 male straight (P/N 1742-0127) - both of which can be found at the previous link. And don't forget to replace the crush washers too. All told, cost me about $130, a couple hours (taking my time)and a few ice cold brews.

I did have to do a couple other simple mods to avoid shelling out for cables, but nothing too involved and nothing that'll put you or your scoot at risk. The "other simple mods" consist of:
[ol][*]Re-routing the clutch cable. Youhave to re-route the cableto theright side of the front motor mount, inside the lower cross-member, exiting between it and the cross-member that the voltage regulator mounts to,up along the right down-tube, crossing over to the left under the neck and onup tothe lever.[*]Removingone of twoplastic fasteners that holds the throttle and idle cables to the frame. The one I'm referringto is the front-most one... hidden behind the front of the gas tank. I have Jackyl's 2" tank lift installed so I have a little more clearance at the mounting tab; and itcleans up the lines of the bike . **[*]Slightly bending the throttle/idle ferrules. I had to bend themfrom the stock 90° to between 70° and 45°; this is somewhat dependant on the position you choose for the bars... I have mine perpendicular to the road. Bending them was easy, I just used the pad of my thumb as a fulcrum and my fingers on the adjuster to apply moderate pressure. You'll want to be careful not to stretch the top, where they mount to the switch housing or you may end up with too much play.[/ol]
**Note
#2 previously stated that you should have enough cable (throttle, idle) without the tank lift... which I've since found to be false. I recently helped a friendwith this mod and found that if you don't have a tank lift (or longer cables) there is too much tension when you turn the bars full left,causing the throttle to stick.

-Rob

 

thanks for the input