Speedometer issue 2007 FXD
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From:
Speedometer issue 2007 FXD
Hey guys,
I was wondering if anyone could help me track down this issue Im having with my speedometer.
I noticed that my speedometer wasnt working on my way to fill gas. Turn signals and neutral indicator work.
i figure that theres a poor connection somewhere because the speedometer works when the bars are at full turn either way.
it blanks out when the bars are straight.
WHen I move a particular set of wires, the speedometer works.
Im trying to find out how to access this wire bundle to check for shorts or damage.
Would this involve removing the tank?
I just picked up this bike, so its new to me.
Any advice appreciated,
I was wondering if anyone could help me track down this issue Im having with my speedometer.
I noticed that my speedometer wasnt working on my way to fill gas. Turn signals and neutral indicator work.
i figure that theres a poor connection somewhere because the speedometer works when the bars are at full turn either way.
it blanks out when the bars are straight.
WHen I move a particular set of wires, the speedometer works.
Im trying to find out how to access this wire bundle to check for shorts or damage.
Would this involve removing the tank?
I just picked up this bike, so its new to me.
Any advice appreciated,
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 22,998
Likes: 11,439
You know you have either a broken wire or loss connection. First step is look don't go pulling on wires yet. find every connect the goes to the bars and inside head light look at the m first. Then check they are connected feel each wire the runs to them see if it is snug in the connection.
It may take time but you will find it. Have the bars been changed . Did person you got it from remove anything and maybe part stock parts back on ?
It may take time but you will find it. Have the bars been changed . Did person you got it from remove anything and maybe part stock parts back on ?
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From:
smitty,
I got the bike like this. It has aftermarket bars, and I believe they were swapped a while ago.
Funny thing is that everything worked until today when I wen for gas and noticed the speedo wasn't working.
After I got home, I traced the potential problem to a bundle of wires going into the frame from the speedo on the port (left) side.
With the ignition on, I would turn the bars from full left to full right. At full left and right, the speedo worked. With the bars centered, the speedo cut out.
With the bars centered, I moved the aforementioned wire bundle, and the speedo would flicker off and on.
I don't know where that bundle terminates once it goes into the frame. Somewhere under the seat, I figure.
If there's a connector somewhere in that run, it may have worked loose.
It looks to me that the only way to get to those wires is to pull the tank. (I literally just filled it....)
Thanks for the advice.
I got the bike like this. It has aftermarket bars, and I believe they were swapped a while ago.
Funny thing is that everything worked until today when I wen for gas and noticed the speedo wasn't working.
After I got home, I traced the potential problem to a bundle of wires going into the frame from the speedo on the port (left) side.
With the ignition on, I would turn the bars from full left to full right. At full left and right, the speedo worked. With the bars centered, the speedo cut out.
With the bars centered, I moved the aforementioned wire bundle, and the speedo would flicker off and on.
I don't know where that bundle terminates once it goes into the frame. Somewhere under the seat, I figure.
If there's a connector somewhere in that run, it may have worked loose.
It looks to me that the only way to get to those wires is to pull the tank. (I literally just filled it....)
Thanks for the advice.
Last edited by Fixxer; Oct 19, 2020 at 08:32 PM. Reason: spelling
HDF Community Team
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 3,013
Likes: 1,190
From: New Hampsha
You can pop the plastic plug out of the frame where the wires enter and look in there, for starters. Is the speedo attached to the riser clamp? If so, there should be a connector not too far into the frame. If the problem is down in the frame there is a blanking cover along the bottom over the front cylinder that might give you more access.
Last edited by John CC; Oct 19, 2020 at 09:23 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From:
Hi John,
I tried prying on those plastic plugs, but I wasn't sure if they were meant to be removed. I'll try them again.
The speedo is still attached to the bar clamp. I can see a connector that *appears* to be the one connected to the speedo through the hole in the frame.
I'll check out that blanking cover you mentioned, as well.
Thank you!
I tried prying on those plastic plugs, but I wasn't sure if they were meant to be removed. I'll try them again.
The speedo is still attached to the bar clamp. I can see a connector that *appears* to be the one connected to the speedo through the hole in the frame.
I'll check out that blanking cover you mentioned, as well.
Thank you!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 22,998
Likes: 11,439
smitty,
I got the bike like this. It has aftermarket bars, and I believe they were swapped a while ago.
Funny thing is that everything worked until today when I wen for gas and noticed the speedo wasn't working.
After I got home, I traced the potential problem to a bundle of wires going into the frame from the speedo on the port (left) side.
With the ignition on, I would turn the bars from full left to full right. At full left and right, the speedo worked. With the bars centered, the speedo cut out.
With the bars centered, I moved the aforementioned wire bundle, and the speedo would flicker off and on.
I don't know where that bundle terminates once it goes into the frame. Somewhere under the seat, I figure.
If there's a connector somewhere in that run, it may have worked loose.
It looks to me that the only way to get to those wires is to pull the tank. (I literally just filled it....)
Thanks for the advice.
I got the bike like this. It has aftermarket bars, and I believe they were swapped a while ago.
Funny thing is that everything worked until today when I wen for gas and noticed the speedo wasn't working.
After I got home, I traced the potential problem to a bundle of wires going into the frame from the speedo on the port (left) side.
With the ignition on, I would turn the bars from full left to full right. At full left and right, the speedo worked. With the bars centered, the speedo cut out.
With the bars centered, I moved the aforementioned wire bundle, and the speedo would flicker off and on.
I don't know where that bundle terminates once it goes into the frame. Somewhere under the seat, I figure.
If there's a connector somewhere in that run, it may have worked loose.
It looks to me that the only way to get to those wires is to pull the tank. (I literally just filled it....)
Thanks for the advice.
Cruiser
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 193
Likes: 51
From: Cumming, GA
The rubber grommets on either side of the frame are removable and re-installable. They aren't the easiest to work with but its definitely doable. The other access point is behind a plastic insert on the underside of the frame's backbone towards the neck. You can remove the bolt at the rear of the tank, disconnect the quickconnect fuel line coupling on the left side, and then lift the rear of the tank up, and put something like a 2x4 under it to keep it up. That will make it a little easier to get to the wiring without completely removing the tank.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From:
Thanks for the replies, guys!
Looks like I have to remove those grommets from both sides of the frame, and that cover above the front cylinder.
Like I mentioned earlier, I believe I have isolated the issue to one particular wire bundle. When I move this bundle directly, I can get the speedo to power on and off.
Maybe I'll find a connector of some sort not fully engaged.<crosses fingers>
Thanks for the advice on the tank, Harleywashboy. I may have to do this soon.
Looks like I have to remove those grommets from both sides of the frame, and that cover above the front cylinder.
Like I mentioned earlier, I believe I have isolated the issue to one particular wire bundle. When I move this bundle directly, I can get the speedo to power on and off.
Maybe I'll find a connector of some sort not fully engaged.<crosses fingers>
Thanks for the advice on the tank, Harleywashboy. I may have to do this soon.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,171
Likes: 486
From: Northern CA
So your bars are NOT stock. Correct? Are they internally wired? If not great. If so it’s not that big of deal.
Remove the rubber plug on the neck. Brake side.
Remove front gas tank bolt and carefully place a short 2x4 under the tank for clearance wrapped in a cloth to prevent scratch’s. Remove the plastic cover under the tank and pull the cluster out.
Unplug the harness on the brake side and feed up through neck where you removed rubber plug.
once you get the wires pulled out of the neck plug back in and turn on key and you should be able wiggle each wire and determine where your break is.
Previous owner probably extended the wires and there is a faulty solder or connection on one of the 6 or 8 wires. Some of the extension kits are crimp (no solder). Make sure and solder all connections.
Remove the rubber plug on the neck. Brake side.
Remove front gas tank bolt and carefully place a short 2x4 under the tank for clearance wrapped in a cloth to prevent scratch’s. Remove the plastic cover under the tank and pull the cluster out.
Unplug the harness on the brake side and feed up through neck where you removed rubber plug.
once you get the wires pulled out of the neck plug back in and turn on key and you should be able wiggle each wire and determine where your break is.
Previous owner probably extended the wires and there is a faulty solder or connection on one of the 6 or 8 wires. Some of the extension kits are crimp (no solder). Make sure and solder all connections.
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From:
First off, thanks everyone for all the helpful tips! I'll be sure to use them once I get home from work.
For clarification, my bars are not stock. They are also internally wired.
Forgive me if I'm wrong, but it doesn't appear to me that any of the wiring going to the speedometer goes through the handlebars at any point.
I have a FXD, so my speedo is mounted directly to the handlebar clamp.
The "suspect" wire bundle that I mentioned earlier goes through the frame on the clutch side.
At any rate, I'll have to lift the tank to see where this bundle goes and get some more accessibility.
I agree that it's most likely a short or failed connection somewhere in that wiring run.
Thanks again for all the help! I'll update this once I start up again.
For clarification, my bars are not stock. They are also internally wired.
Forgive me if I'm wrong, but it doesn't appear to me that any of the wiring going to the speedometer goes through the handlebars at any point.
I have a FXD, so my speedo is mounted directly to the handlebar clamp.
The "suspect" wire bundle that I mentioned earlier goes through the frame on the clutch side.
At any rate, I'll have to lift the tank to see where this bundle goes and get some more accessibility.
I agree that it's most likely a short or failed connection somewhere in that wiring run.
Thanks again for all the help! I'll update this once I start up again.