Installing forward controls?
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: encino, ca
The dude at the dealership ( he was a service guy, not sales guy) also said that they would need to bleed the brakes. Is this true, from looking at it, it seems like the brake extender just screws in. ??
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: encino, ca
So are you saying that a piece just gets stuck in the mid holes, and not taken out?
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: encino, ca
I was planning on buying the service manual, but what is the parts manual?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
ORIGINAL: WS6 Formula
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the cheaper 2005 kit with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod that comes with the stronger heim joints (They won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the original, and the kit included cadmium plated shift rods.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/m_3212510/tm.htm
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=84552444229229 3&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302288287&A SSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302288287&bmUID=1 180998448594&bmLocale=en_US
Shift Linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/browse/browse_products.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=25343743 02291395&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442292293&ASSOR TMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302287931&bmUID=122396127 3502&bmLocale=en_US
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the cheaper 2005 kit with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod that comes with the stronger heim joints (They won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the original, and the kit included cadmium plated shift rods.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/m_3212510/tm.htm
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=84552444229229 3&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302288287&A SSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302288287&bmUID=1 180998448594&bmLocale=en_US
Shift Linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/browse/browse_products.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=25343743 02291395&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442292293&ASSOR TMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302287931&bmUID=122396127 3502&bmLocale=en_US
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
Last edited by WS6 Formula; Oct 14, 2008 at 12:35 AM. Reason: added photo
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,722
Likes: 7
You can always pick up a set of Kury forwards online for $300 shipped. Definitely a do-it-yourself job and you don't need a service manual because there is no going into the primary. Just install a cap over the mid-shift spline.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 780
Likes: 18
From: Massachusetts
The Parts Manual shows a detailed diagram of each component of your motorcycle (ie your carburetor), along with the actual name of the part & corresponding HD Part Numbers. It doesn't tell you how to take things apart or put them back together, but it will diagram each part, right down to the screws. It is a big help, especially if you lose or break something and need to order it from HD.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,483
Likes: 39
From: Passaic County, NJ
Parts manuals can be had on ebay usually under $40. I know the one listed for my 2007 wg is around $38.50. I purchased my service manual on ebay from Lake Shore HD. They shipped fast. I will probably go back and buy the parts manual.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,298
Likes: 0
From: CA Desert
Now thats how it is done! Comes with 1st grade instructions,no manual is needed! 1 hr all done! I think putting air in the tire is harder!
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
From: Fairborn Ohio
I put the harley foward controls on my 2009 FXDC. I did not want to cut the mid shaft so here is my solution. Get the beauty cap from Kury and the anti rattle clip that locks the mid shaft out of the way. Problem solved. These parts are from the Kury. kit Go online and retrieve the installation instructions from Kury.
Not a problem, Leslie! The anti-rattle clip is item number 400455
($8.95/each) and the "Beauty Cap" is item 9072 ( $10.99/each). Please
contact us directly to order as item 400455 is not available online.
Not a problem, Leslie! The anti-rattle clip is item number 400455
($8.95/each) and the "Beauty Cap" is item 9072 ( $10.99/each). Please
contact us directly to order as item 400455 is not available online.