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when i change from the stock bar with the pullback risers to 8" drags, the wires were about 2" too short. So instead of disconnecting the pins from the wiring harness connectors inside the frame, i cut and solders extensions in. 24 solder joints. Take your time and color code everything with different colored electrical tape and carefully heat shink everything. Worked out great. Good luck.
when i change from the stock bar with the pullback risers to 8" drags, the wires were about 2" too short. So instead of disconnecting the pins from the wiring harness connectors inside the frame, i cut and solders extensions in. 24 solder joints. Take your time and color code everything with different colored electrical tape and carefully heat shink everything. Worked out great. Good luck.
Great advice. I've been looking and I think my stock lines ought to fit. If not I'll follow your line.
That was the best post I found when doing some research before I did the same project. I'm not sure where the rest of his step-by-step went, but it gets your wires free from the connecters. From there, I used a piece of braided string and my shop-vac to create the 'fish line.' Worked out well...
MTBlood, Looks like you had the same stock bars I did. I think my clamps had 2" risers and the bars had 4" rise in them. I went with the street slammers too and everything worked out good. The wires didn't need to be cut as everything was quick disconnect. I went with Magnums platinum chromite II cables and stayed with the stock lengths. They are some of the best looking cables I've seen and haven't had any problems with them turning yellow. I have a picture in my album that shows how bright they are.
Last edited by red devil; Dec 5, 2008 at 12:08 AM.
Looks like, you unplug the individual wires from the connector like in that other thread, then each wire gets an extension. I might feel a bit more confident with something like this vs soldering.
Or, if you have the proper crimp tool (jp cycles again), you could just make your own lines with raw colored wire.. the plug "blanks" can probably be bought over the hd parts counter.. That's how I did my fatboy tail-lights when I boogered up one of the plugs.
Looks like, you unplug the individual wires from the connector like in that other thread, then each wire gets an extension. I might feel a bit more confident with something like this vs soldering.
Or, if you have the proper crimp tool (jp cycles again), you could just make your own lines with raw colored wire.. the plug "blanks" can probably be bought over the hd parts counter.. That's how I did my fatboy tail-lights when I boogered up one of the plugs.
what a great idea. wish I knew. I was able to get all my splices up inside the bars.
Ok, I'm stuck. Been looking at this sucker all day. I've got the disconnects apart and the wires out, but no way is the switch connector fitting through these bars. It looks like it needs cut and then re-spliced. This is my last choice but want to ask what the trick is first. Do the connectors disconnect any at all or are the fixed? I've already decided since I have it apart I'm doing all the finishing touches with braided covers and all.
At one point I decided to say *** it and wrap them, but the bars dont have the indention to accept external wires.
Looks like, you unplug the individual wires from the connector like in that other thread, then each wire gets an extension. I might feel a bit more confident with something like this vs soldering.
Or, if you have the proper crimp tool (jp cycles again), you could just make your own lines with raw colored wire.. the plug "blanks" can probably be bought over the hd parts counter.. That's how I did my fatboy tail-lights when I boogered up one of the plugs.
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