dyna forward controls
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 118
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From: trumann, arkansas
dyna forward controls
can anyone tell me how hard it is to put forward controls on a 09 s/g ? it looks like the primary case must come off so can you take the shifter rod out and plug it or is there a short cut to this and can you use the stock tranmisson gear shifter
agreed bud, use the search there is a how to... you can get walked right though it... i did it, took about an hour... i know several people have done this with out any prior bike work experiance... i would sugest a manual
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
Here's some info below on installing the Harley Davidson forward controls.
Originally Posted by Ws6 formula
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 kit (P/N 49080-03A)with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/437...2008059kp3.jpg
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 kit (P/N 49080-03A)with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/437...2008059kp3.jpg
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,722
Likes: 7
The Kuryakyn forwards kit is designed to be easily installable and not remove the old components. It comes with a chrome cover for the mid-shift spline and a locking clip for the mid-shift rod connection point. I used it, very easy install and I can put the mids back on later if I want very easily.
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,181
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Curious question. How long of a process was it to handsaw through the shifter rod? I spent a good 30 mins and got to where I had no grip left and barely had made a dent in it. I ended up securing the rod lever and cut the rod off in inside the crankcase with a reciprocating saw. Figure I can save removing the lever for a rainy day. I got the left side finished tonight. Right side is tomorrow.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,234
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From: Southern Indiana
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