That's very cook Priest and thanks for the pics!
changing to front master cylinder
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 163
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From: south coast nsw Australia
changing to front master cylinder
My new forwards come with its own master cylinder for the rear brake so I will be removing the OEM from my 07 bob, whats involved in organising a new custom hydraulic line. Will i need new fittings ect and what about the brake electrical line. Anyone out there done this mod and has advice. Thanks.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,919
Likes: 23
From: Seattle, WA
I replaced my whole rear brake line when i swapped out to a Softail setup (with the rear brake master cylinder mounted on the forward control bracket). I removed the original master cylinder (mounted below and aft of the transmission).
I used all new lines and fittings but reused some of the hardware. I got new chrome (straight) banjo fittings for the brake caliper and master cylinder, and got a "T" fitting for where the brake light pressure switch goes on. I reused the original switch. I just zip-tied the T fitting to the bracket where the original master cylinder was removed. I used stainless steel braid brake line. I used a 14" line to go from the T fitting to the caliper and 34" line to go forward of the T fitting to the master cylinder. I was a little concerned about how it was going to turn out since I did all the work myself; but, I didn't give myself enough credit, I guess.
Once I got it all tightened up to specs, and properly bled, it works like a champ! Probably put over 3,000 problem-free miles on it so far ....
Good luck!
R/
Priest
I used all new lines and fittings but reused some of the hardware. I got new chrome (straight) banjo fittings for the brake caliper and master cylinder, and got a "T" fitting for where the brake light pressure switch goes on. I reused the original switch. I just zip-tied the T fitting to the bracket where the original master cylinder was removed. I used stainless steel braid brake line. I used a 14" line to go from the T fitting to the caliper and 34" line to go forward of the T fitting to the master cylinder. I was a little concerned about how it was going to turn out since I did all the work myself; but, I didn't give myself enough credit, I guess.
Once I got it all tightened up to specs, and properly bled, it works like a champ! Probably put over 3,000 problem-free miles on it so far ....
Good luck!
R/
Priest
Last edited by SURFOR Chop; Jan 21, 2009 at 11:44 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,352
Likes: 4
From: Augusta, GA
I replaced my whole rear brake line when i swapped out to a Softail setup (with the rear brake master cylinder mounted on the forward control bracket). I removed the original master cylinder (mounted below and aft of the transmission).
I used all new lines and fittings but reused some of the hardware. I got new chrome (straight) banjo fittings for the brake caliper and master cylinder, and got a "T" fitting for where the brake light pressure switch goes on. I reused the original switch. I just zip-tied the T fitting to the bracket where the original master cylinder was removed. I used stainless steel braid brake line. I used a 14" line to go from the T fitting to the caliper and 34" line to go forward of the T fitting to the master cylinder. I was a little concerned about how it was going to turn out since I did all the work myself; but, I didn't give myself enough credit, I guess.
Once I got it all tightened up to specs, and properly bled, it works like a champ! Probably put over 3,000 problem-free miles on it so far ....
Good luck!
R/
Priest
I used all new lines and fittings but reused some of the hardware. I got new chrome (straight) banjo fittings for the brake caliper and master cylinder, and got a "T" fitting for where the brake light pressure switch goes on. I reused the original switch. I just zip-tied the T fitting to the bracket where the original master cylinder was removed. I used stainless steel braid brake line. I used a 14" line to go from the T fitting to the caliper and 34" line to go forward of the T fitting to the master cylinder. I was a little concerned about how it was going to turn out since I did all the work myself; but, I didn't give myself enough credit, I guess.
Once I got it all tightened up to specs, and properly bled, it works like a champ! Probably put over 3,000 problem-free miles on it so far ....
Good luck!
R/
Priest
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,919
Likes: 23
From: Seattle, WA
Not very good shots of the master cylinder and the mounting bracket because my lower fairing obstructs the view. I basically have the banjo fitting angled slightly upward to clear the fairing. Originally, I just positioned it coming off the master cylinder about horizontal. I routed the brake line gently curving beneath the front engine mount and back down alongside the frame. I used some zip ties to secure it to the frame (in addition to securing the T-fitting to the frame). I couldn't get a good photo of the brake light pressure switch--it's behind the T-fitting obscured by the brackets, frame, etc. I just routed the aft portion of the brake line along the original route ... there's a retaining ring affixed to the inner swing arm you can see from the photos. I have the shocks off of the swingarm and the rear wheel is resting on the floor--that explains the unusual angle and the jack stands you can see in a couple of the photos. Hope these help ....
R/
Priest
R/
Priest
Last edited by SURFOR Chop; Jan 22, 2009 at 12:06 AM. Reason: Realized I had another photo that shows floorboard and master cylinder a little better
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 163
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From: south coast nsw Australia
changing position of master cylinder
Thanks Preisty, very much appreciated. Looks simple enough (famous last words). If you like I will let you know how I go, wont be doing it for about 8 weeks, when I get back from Tasmania. All the best mate.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,352
Likes: 4
From: Augusta, GA
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,919
Likes: 23
From: Seattle, WA
Just leafing through '10 "Fat Book" from Drag Specialties and happened upon brake fittings ...
If anyone ever contemplates trying this (swapping out rear brake master cylinder), the "T-fittings" I referenced above are Drag Specialties part number 1742-0156 "Rear brake tee, inline without bracket" (the one I was looking for) ... ended up using one similar to part number 1742-0103 "Rear brake tee, inline with bracket" ... on page 855.
Don't remember if the bracket was bent at the angle pictured, or if I bent it before installing ....
R/
'Chop (fka "Priest")
p.s. Just saw at the bottom of page 860 they have Goodridge fittings ... looks like I might have used P/N "MCHD-016" (with a 'bent' tab)...I wish I'd have found 1742-0051 or MCHD-014 at the time ... would have used on of those ....
If anyone ever contemplates trying this (swapping out rear brake master cylinder), the "T-fittings" I referenced above are Drag Specialties part number 1742-0156 "Rear brake tee, inline without bracket" (the one I was looking for) ... ended up using one similar to part number 1742-0103 "Rear brake tee, inline with bracket" ... on page 855.
Don't remember if the bracket was bent at the angle pictured, or if I bent it before installing ....
R/
'Chop (fka "Priest")
p.s. Just saw at the bottom of page 860 they have Goodridge fittings ... looks like I might have used P/N "MCHD-016" (with a 'bent' tab)...I wish I'd have found 1742-0051 or MCHD-014 at the time ... would have used on of those ....
Last edited by SURFOR Chop; May 18, 2010 at 03:34 PM.
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