I'm getting some chatter too. The dealer addressed it at my 1000-mile service, but it's still doing it. Kinda disheartening that it seems like a PITA to fix.

 

Does the "chatter" occur while applying the front brake, not a hard application but just enough to slow you down? Sometimes the brake pads set up a harmonic noise as they are pushed against the vent holes on the rotors. My older Dynas will do this on occasion.

 

Mine occurs when braking, unless I'm braking hard. Then it'll start the closer I get to stopping.

 

Well, I finally got it fixed (third time is the charm!) and it's a whole new bike now! Evidently, something in the stem was torqued enough. So great not to feel/hear chatter when braking. It felt like ABS kicking in. So annoying!

 

even after i replaced the washer i got it... i loosened the neck bolt, un did the lower trees then tightened it back up, adjusted the fall away... no more noise!

 

The dealer tightened the neck to spec and it's completely gone! So happy!

 

Is there a write-up somewhere on adjusting the fall away? I have the washer on order.

 

I have been going over my front end with a wrench trying to figure out what was making the clunk sound when i hit bumps...

 

actually, i joined the forum to search for this specific issue and ended up reading through tons of great other stuff

 

Here is the info from the service manual. Make sure you use the torque specs from the service bulletin I posted on the first page of this thread.

ADJUSTMENT
Bearing Adjustment (Fall-Away)
1. Support motorcycle in an upright position so the front
end is completely suspended and the vehicle is level.
2. Remove all accessory weight, such as a windshield, that
may influence the way the front end swings. If clutch
cable is routed so it pulls the front end one way or the
other, disconnect it.
3. Place a suitable marking material, such as masking tape,
over the fender tip.
4. Install a pointer so the base is stationary on the floor and
the pointer indicates the center of the fender. The front
end should be straight ahead, however the balance point
may be slightly off center.
5. Check steering head bearing tension.
a. Tap the fender on one side until the front end begins
to “fall-away” by itself. Label this point on the marking
material.
b. Repeat the previous step in the other direction.
c. Measure distance between marks.
6. The distance between the “fall-away” marks must be 2.0-
4.0 in. (50.8-101.6 mm).
NOTE
If distance measured is 2.0-4.0 in. (50.8-101.6 mm) no bearing
adjustment is needed.
NOTE
If distance measured is outside the range given in step 7
bearing adjustment is needed. See Figure 1-37. To access
the adjuster nut (1) the upper triple clamp (2) must be moved
upward.
7. With HUBCAP REMOVER AND INSTALLER (HD-
41494) unscrew and remove stem cap (3).
8. Bend down the fork stem lock washer (4) tab, and loosen
fork stem nut (5).
9. Loosen upper triple clamp pinch bolts and move upper
triple clamp up enough to expose star nut
10. Tighten one pinch bolt enough to hold upper triple clamp
in the raised position.
11. Tighten or loosen the fork adjuster nut until the measurement
is within limits.
a. If the distance is more than 4.0 in. (101.6 mm), turn
the adjuster nut counter clockwise to loosen.
b. If the distance is less than 2.0 in. (50.8 mm), turn the
adjuster nut clockwise to tighten.
12. Lower upper triple clamp and tighten stem nut to 45-55
ft-lbs.
13. Check fall-away. If it is 2.0-4.0 in. (50.8-101.6 mm),
tighten upper triple clamp pinch bolts to 30-35 ft-lbs
(40.7-47.5 Nm).
14. Repeat the “fall-away” procedure to be sure the adjustment
is correct.
15. Bend lock tab on lock washer against stem nut and
install stem cap.
16. Install and adjust clutch cable.
17. Test ride motorcycle.