Replacing Handlebars...Where to start?
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 939
Likes: 22
Replacing Handlebars...Where to start?
OK, so I have a couple of sets of risers and handlebars that I would like to mock up on my lowrider, but in order to do so I need to first remove my stock set. I have scoured the service manual and I am still unclear as to what my first move should be to remove my stock handlebars. Ultimately, I would like to remove the handlebars and handcontrols as one unit if possible, but will break it down into separate pieces if necessary.
I know this has been done many time over by the forum posters, so can anyone give me a summary of where to begin (i.e. first disconnect molex connect from the wiring harness).
Thanks in advance.
Mat
I know this has been done many time over by the forum posters, so can anyone give me a summary of where to begin (i.e. first disconnect molex connect from the wiring harness).
Thanks in advance.
Mat
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
From: In Denial
In my opinion, it will be easier to remove the clutch and brake levers from the bars. The clutch cable isn't tough to remove but the brake line is more of a hassle because of the fluid. I'd remove the entire lever. If you want to leave the switches and grips in place, you'll need to disconnect the wires from the plugs (under the frame neck - lots of good write ups already) and disconnect the throttle cables. Wires will pull up through the frame and out through the top triple tree.
I do the same, FIRST THING THOUGH... COVER YOUR TANK!!!!!!!!!! towels and many of them!!!
i pull off the grips first, then take off the clutch side loosen the bars, and remove the brake side... bars off!
i pull off the grips first, then take off the clutch side loosen the bars, and remove the brake side... bars off!
In case you haven't noticed yet, here's a link to some more useful info how to remove the grips, switch housings, clutch and throttle cables:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...ock-grips.html
FXD2003Rider
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...ock-grips.html
FXD2003Rider
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,998
Likes: 14
From: Central Ohio
1. Cover the front fender.
I like removing the tank first. Remove, in accordance with the service manual, the master cyclinder, clutch cable & mirrors. Loosen the throttle cable adjusters & disconnect the cables at the trottle body & unplug the molox connecters. Remove the headlight for access to the riser bolts from under the top tree. Remove the riser bolts & lift the bars off.
2. Install the new risers & bars for a test fit/feel... no controls, levers or grips. It's good to have the bike setting straight up so you can sit on it with both feet on the pegs. Sit there for a while... as long as practicle til some one comes out to the garage & asks, "What are you doing!?"
Repeat step 2 for each set of riser/bars.
3. 'Build' the new bars on the bench... controll wires & controlls (especially easier on the bench if internally wired), the throttle grip & cables & the clutch perch.
The risers should still be on there from the test fit.
4. Install the assembly back on the bike & reconnect everything. If you need to change the brake line, remove it from the bike & the master cyclinder, drain the cyclinder & install it on the bars. Install the new brake line & bleed the air out of it. Re-install & adjust the mirrors.
5. Test ride it.
I like removing the tank first. Remove, in accordance with the service manual, the master cyclinder, clutch cable & mirrors. Loosen the throttle cable adjusters & disconnect the cables at the trottle body & unplug the molox connecters. Remove the headlight for access to the riser bolts from under the top tree. Remove the riser bolts & lift the bars off.
2. Install the new risers & bars for a test fit/feel... no controls, levers or grips. It's good to have the bike setting straight up so you can sit on it with both feet on the pegs. Sit there for a while... as long as practicle til some one comes out to the garage & asks, "What are you doing!?"
Repeat step 2 for each set of riser/bars.
3. 'Build' the new bars on the bench... controll wires & controlls (especially easier on the bench if internally wired), the throttle grip & cables & the clutch perch.
The risers should still be on there from the test fit.
4. Install the assembly back on the bike & reconnect everything. If you need to change the brake line, remove it from the bike & the master cyclinder, drain the cyclinder & install it on the bars. Install the new brake line & bleed the air out of it. Re-install & adjust the mirrors.
5. Test ride it.
Last edited by 08fxdf43202; Nov 25, 2009 at 03:48 PM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 20
From: Trophy Club, TX
Mat, it's a piece of cake.
1. Cover your tank and fender. A technique that I found works great is to get one of those "U" shaped mats that go in front of the toilet (preferably clean) and drape that over your tank with the arms laying down over the front of your tank. The rubber on the back will keep it from slipping.
2. Loosen up your handlebar clamp; you'll see it sag a little bit. When you do, support it with your hand or get someone else to help with it. Once it's off, just lay the bars across the top of your tank.
3. Unbolt the risers and carefully remove them. The key is not to let anything drop onto your fender.
4. Unless your bike's pretty new, I'd recommend replacing your riser bushings. Even so, you might want to replace the stock rubber ones with polyurethane bushings. They make a huge difference.
5. You can easily remove your clutch and brake housings. Watch your mirrors when you do that so they don't fall. This way you can easily slip you right grip off without having to disconnect your throttle and idle cables. I drape mine across the tank or neck. Just watch your cables, especially your brake line.
6. After you remove your left grip, you can now play with any combination of risers and handlebars.
7. Once you have the set up combination that you like, just reinstall everything in reverse order.
Good luck and feel free to ask if you've any more questions.
1. Cover your tank and fender. A technique that I found works great is to get one of those "U" shaped mats that go in front of the toilet (preferably clean) and drape that over your tank with the arms laying down over the front of your tank. The rubber on the back will keep it from slipping.
2. Loosen up your handlebar clamp; you'll see it sag a little bit. When you do, support it with your hand or get someone else to help with it. Once it's off, just lay the bars across the top of your tank.
3. Unbolt the risers and carefully remove them. The key is not to let anything drop onto your fender.
4. Unless your bike's pretty new, I'd recommend replacing your riser bushings. Even so, you might want to replace the stock rubber ones with polyurethane bushings. They make a huge difference.
5. You can easily remove your clutch and brake housings. Watch your mirrors when you do that so they don't fall. This way you can easily slip you right grip off without having to disconnect your throttle and idle cables. I drape mine across the tank or neck. Just watch your cables, especially your brake line.
6. After you remove your left grip, you can now play with any combination of risers and handlebars.
7. Once you have the set up combination that you like, just reinstall everything in reverse order.
Good luck and feel free to ask if you've any more questions.
i also like to get as drunk as possible before i start wrenching on anything on my bike... helps
*this was a joke so dont be jumping down my back
*this was a joke so dont be jumping down my back
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Aurora, IL
I recall seeing you refill your glass quite a few times during your IPB project.
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