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Wiring harness removal, PC v install

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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 08:05 AM
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Default Wiring harness removal, PC v install

07 wide glide, need to remove the stock wiring harness from the
ECM. But how?? Tried pulling on it, found a tab on the bottom of it, inserted screw driver, pulled again still no luck. Manual ain't telling me jack about how to get it apart, maybe if I knew what connector type it was I could figure it out??? Anybody know how to get this apart??? Thanx

Update on rear wheel axel, the bigger hammer got it out. It was not rusted, brake side of axel had lots of anti-seize still on it, but the pully side was dryed on it to the point if was difficult to whip it off the axel, same condition as the last time I removed it. Gonna try painting the pully side bearing with anti-seize before reasembling instead of just lubing the axel before inserting it back in. Think too much anti-seize is whipping off by the time it goes thru the pully side bearing, guess I'll find out if I'm right the next time I pull it.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by dwg dave
07 wide glide, need to remove the stock wiring harness from the
ECM. But how?? Tried pulling on it, found a tab on the bottom of it, inserted screw driver, pulled again still no luck. Manual ain't telling me jack about how to get it apart, maybe if I knew what connector type it was I could figure it out??? Anybody know how to get this apart??? Thanx
the tab at the bottom needs to be squeezed in, not separated from the connector. Squeeze the tab in like a clothes peg and work it up and down and sideways with good even pressure and it should come out. Go easy I cracked the plastic on my pcV grey connector using too much force getting it on there :-> (DOH). Not the important side but it got me worried just the same!
 

Last edited by maddghost; Nov 29, 2009 at 09:30 AM.
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 10:25 AM
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Yeah, I broke the tab clean off on mine while trying to get them apart so now it is zip tied just to ensure it stays tight.

Originally Posted by maddghost
the tab at the bottom needs to be squeezed in, not separated from the connector. Squeeze the tab in like a clothes peg and work it up and down and sideways with good even pressure and it should come out. Go easy I cracked the plastic on my pcV grey connector using too much force getting it on there :-> (DOH). Not the important side but it got me worried just the same!
 
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 10:38 AM
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When i did mine i disconnected the battery *Obviously* and took the battery and battery case out so I would have more room to work the wires around to the way I wanted, On the other side i also disconnected the plug wires to the coil so I could also get a little more play around in that area as well..after that i just layed the PCV under the seat after moving the wires around to make it fit..all is well now and love it..Good Luck
 
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 07:59 PM
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+1 to removing the entire battery box--the few extra minutes it takes to remove this pays back huge on time saved and simplicity for the install. Be wary if you cracked or otherwise messed up the harness during removal--that thing is going to be relocated right behind the rear cylinder and needs to be able to seal against grit and water. I didn't like the heat being transferred to it, although it's supposedly okay as long as it's not contacting the rear cylinder. Anyhow, wrapped mine (harness) in some of that ridiculously overpriced silver heatshield-type tape which works so well it almost stays cool to the touch.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by jb1023
Yeah, I broke the tab clean off on mine while trying to get them apart so now it is zip tied just to ensure it stays tight.
Mine isn't broken but I zip tied it to make sure water won't get in since there is only that one rediculous tab holding a crucial connector together.

To Andjh I also zip tied the pcV/Oem connectors to the frame of the bike at least 6 inches away from the cylinder with the black pcV connector facing down to avoid water intrusion. Then some kid at the H-Dealer washed it with a power wash and soaked it for me so I had to start that whole thing over again.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by maddghost
Then some kid at the H-Dealer washed it with a power wash and soaked it for me so I had to start that whole thing over again.
lol, nice...they've never really offered to wash mine, but then again, I never mention it either since I've just got the basic FXD that looks the same clean or dirty--and it would probably peel off some of my decent looking (but undurable I'm sure) rattle can paintwork on the horn, derby cover and belt guard.

I'm going to rearrange my harness farther back as you describe and lose the thermal tape. Moisture tends to get in there and the adhesive is quite weak now, plus I realize that the heat is not a big deal, especially if I can get some decent clearance.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 08:56 PM
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BTW..I also forgot to mention if you need some help on looking to see how tight the fitment is, look for the Vance and Hines fuel pak video on youtube or their site it helps you with the placement of the PCV and makes a little more room as well
 
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