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True Track arrived today...

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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 10:03 AM
  #11  
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The rear does suck a bit. I've done it both ways: with rear tire installed and without. Without the rear tire installed you certainly can get up in there to do what you need but it's still tight working in that tiny area.

The front is a breeze.

A 2nd set of hands for the rear install does come in handy, especially when it comes to transposing the two mount bolts.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 05:03 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Hickey
Everyone talks about the install being difficult, it really isnt! I too was intimidated to start it, but it was easy.

just take your sweet time, and the rear will be just as easy as the front.

All I can suggest is, just take it apart. putting the plates on is a million times easier without the linkage. Once the plates are on, the linkage is easy to boot!

Another tip, when doing the front, i was worried about the motor shifting (even with the lift) so instead of removing both front bolts, I just removed the bottom one, installed the front plate with their bolt (just tight enough where it grabs, but loose enough where i can still rotate the plate), then I removed the stock top mount bolt, rotated the plate to where the holes line up and popped in their top front bolt. This way, there is always a bolt in the motor mount.
Great suggestion... Thanks. I will definitely take that suggestion.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 05:05 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by redrubicon2004
Bring it over, I'll put it on for much less than the dealer!
Thanks for the offer, but it seems that might be a long drive. Besides, I am looking forward to doing the work myself.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 06:12 PM
  #14  
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OK, I have been thinking about this too.......somebody post some pics of this contraption and tell me how it rides afterwords!
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 06:26 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by PGDredd
OK, I have been thinking about this too.......somebody post some pics of this contraption and tell me how it rides afterwords!
Search...there is a huge thread on this forum regarding TT. Also, several dozen smaller threads about installs complete with pics.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 08:30 AM
  #16  
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Don't have a torque wrench or lift, so I am going to wait until Saturday to finish, but had time today and did the front end. Really was a breeze, and I already notice a difference in the way it handles and tracks. If the back makes as much of an improvement I will be completely pumped.

Here are the steps I took for the font:

1. Put two 3/4" boards under the kickstand to level the bike out some. Then I put the scissor jack under the motor and opened it (finger tight).

2. Next I removed the stabilizer bar using 9/16" wrench on the lock nut and a 7/32" allen wrench on the bolt and set the washers and spacers to the side, after paying careful attention to the order in which the pieces came off. This left the stabilizer attached to the smaller piece AKA the powertrain bracket.

3. I removed the nuts from the rubber mounting bolts (side) using a 9/16" wrench and a 9/16" socket. I then tapped the bolts back until they were just sticking out a little bit on the side that I was going to attach the powertrain bracket. The bottom bolt was a little tight, but by simply adjusting the jack a little bit to adjust the pressure on the motor, I found I could move the bolt back without using too much force.

4. I put blue loctite on the threads of the powertrain bracket and used the 9/16" wrench on the front bolt to tighten it up most of the way, and used a 9/16" socket with an extension on the back bolt. When they were both close, I went back and tightened the front bolt and then tightened the back bolt. Now the powertrain bracket with the stabilizer bar attached was on the bike.

5. I removed the bottom bolt on the front of the motor mount using a 5/16" allen wrench and replaced it with one of the bolts that came with the kit. I put blue loctite on the threads and screwed the bolt through the frame bracket into the hole in the front motor mount. I only put it in tight enough to allow me to rotate the frame bracket up and down. Then I removed the top bolt and swung the frame bracket into place to check the alignment of the stabilizer bar. I then swung the bracket back out of the way and adjusted the lenght of the stabilizer bar until it lined up with the hole for the bolt I took out. In my case, it needed to be shortened.

6. Then I pushed the stabilizer bar up against the frame and swung the frame stabilizer into place and put the supplied replacement bolt in (blue loctite). Then I replaced the washers, spacers and locknut to re-attach the stabilizer bar, and used the 9/16" wrench on the locknut and 7/32" allen wrench on the bolt and tightened it up. Then I tightened up the bolts on the front of the frame bracket.

7. I next tightened the locknuts on the stabilizer bar, but I had to remove the bolts that attach the voltage regulator with a 3/16" allen wrench, and get the voltage regulator out of the way. I used a 9/16" wrench to tighten the lock nuts. I cleaned up the nuts that were holding in the VR and replaced them using blue loctite.

8. I adjusted the bolt on the powertrain bracket to 3/8". Turns out I didn't have a ruler that was short enough, and my tape measure was a little shady on the end, so I went to the hardware store (2 miles), and ended up purchasing a cheap caliper tool for $9. I used that for the measurement, but if you are planning on using a standard 1 foot ruler, forget it, there isn't enough room (hopefully your tape measure is in good shape). I made the adjustment, and then I used a 1/2" wrench to tighten down the lock nut.

9. Cleaned up and took the bike for a ride.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 09:55 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by PGDredd
OK, I have been thinking about this too.......somebody post some pics of this contraption and tell me how it rides afterwords!
I'm not sure if I posted some pics when I did my install a couple months back but the quality is top notch, hardware, is excellent, the only thing lacking a little is the instructions. I left a good write up a while back too on the install, they are not crystal clear in the position of allen/hex for front or rear, you will see what I mean when you get the kit, but by no means do not let that deter you from getting it, because it's an excellent mod to your suspension.

You want to know how it rides with it, well read my post a couple days back on an incident I had before true track and after, and you decide....

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...es-payoff.html
 
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Old May 6, 2010 | 08:32 AM
  #18  
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Sounds like a good part to install. About how long did it take?
 
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Old May 6, 2010 | 10:02 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 04FXDL
Sounds like a good part to install. About how long did it take?
As long as you want it to take. Couple hours between wrenching, bathroom breaks due to the beer you're drinking and whatever else that can interrupt you.
 
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Old May 6, 2010 | 10:06 AM
  #20  
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looks like up to two weeks! I installed the front without a lift on my own last week, planning on doing the back this past saturday, but the wife had different plans! She invited friends down for saturday and sunday, so I still haven't been able to finish the job. Trying again this saturday.
 
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