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Sheared Off Rear Pulley Bolts

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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 09:18 PM
  #71  
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Mud - I know you converted to chain, but for someone just doing a remove-replace on the stock pulley rotor, can I get the specs on what bolts to order? I am ok with buying a new socket or two if that multi-tooth driver system is better than the old hex head. I am fixing to re-lace my wheels and have the hubs coated while I am at it. I'd like to order the pulley bolts ahead of time. Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 06:09 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by macnab_sf
Mud - I know you converted to chain, but for someone just doing a remove-replace on the stock pulley rotor, can I get the specs on what bolts to order? I am ok with buying a new socket or two if that multi-tooth driver system is better than the old hex head. I am fixing to re-lace my wheels and have the hubs coated while I am at it. I'd like to order the pulley bolts ahead of time. Thanks.
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.
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the fasteners on my sprocket use a 12 point socket.
you probably already have them.

as to the specs - parts book says part # 3873. 7/16 - 14 x 2 1/2.

if you go with ARP or other,
you want to consider the threaded length and the unthreaded
in relation to the sprocket thickness.
.
.
.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 06:57 AM
  #73  
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Default Pulley bolts

I know I'm way late on this but does anyone ever use safety wire anymore?? Not real pretty, but it works. In the wind.

Pops
 
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 07:01 AM
  #74  
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I don't see how safety wire will do anything if these bolts are failing in shear
 
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 07:30 AM
  #75  
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Maybe they shear after coming loose a bit. They actualy apperar to be broken off.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 07:38 AM
  #76  
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Like any critical fastener they will fail if you do not use the correct bolt installed properly, it is as simple as that.
Only reason mine failed was I trusted an Indy to know the proper bolts and instead he used bolts that were too short.
A NEW quality Grade 8 bolt at least 2-1/2" long and properly torqued with locktite will not have a problem. I have changed these things more times than I can remember and have had only the one failure.
All it takes is for 1 of these to be loose and it will cause strain on the others which in turn will fail. These are one of the few bolts you truly do need to actually use a torque wrench.
 

Last edited by 8541hog; Mar 20, 2012 at 07:47 AM.
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 10:36 AM
  #77  
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well its hard for me to get to an actual Harley Shop this week and really want to get my wheel back on ... do you all think if I went to a local FASTENAL getting grade 8 bolts would suffice ?
 
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 10:39 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by por2gezo
well its hard for me to get to an actual Harley Shop this week and really want to get my wheel back on ... do you all think if I went to a local FASTENAL getting grade 8 bolts would suffice ?
Yes, , hell I bought my current ones at Home Depot and they have been just fine for over 5000 miles,
 

Last edited by 8541hog; Mar 20, 2012 at 10:42 AM.
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 10:51 AM
  #79  
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Hmmm glad I read this, will have to double check to make sure my '07's pully bolts are to spec, don't want that headache!!
 
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 11:22 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by mud
.
.
.
the fasteners on my sprocket use a 12 point socket.
you probably already have them.

as to the specs - parts book says part # 3873. 7/16 - 14 x 2 1/2.

if you go with ARP or other,
you want to consider the threaded length and the unthreaded
in relation to the sprocket thickness.
.
.
.
I think the part number indicated in mud's post has been updated on 07 bikes. My parts book has the pulley bolts listed as Part# 3109 Screw, 7/16-14 X 2-5/8 hex cap w/washer, lock patch.

Both part numbers come up when using part number search on the new castle hd part look up. This might be something to consider.
thanks,
Pete
 
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