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Sheared Off Rear Pulley Bolts

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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 10:06 AM
  #91  
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From another thread:

Originally Posted by FXD2003Rider
What about using tab washers?

 
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 02:01 AM
  #92  
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IT HAPPENED TO ME !!! All 5 bolts .... snapped ! ... lucky for me ... the pully came lose in my driveway ! after getting home from work !

1000 miles after I followed everyones instructions on getting NEW bolts and using Lots of Locktight ...

How do I now get these bolts out of my wheel ?

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Last edited by por2gezo; Jul 12, 2012 at 02:06 AM.
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 05:01 AM
  #93  
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Man, that sucks. You should be able to pull them with an EZ out and some heat...
 
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 08:14 AM
  #94  
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I use chrome allen head bolts and green locktite.

So far, it has been two years and they have not moved. Just be sure the bolts do not bottom out in the hole just as they are tightened.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 08:38 AM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by Grind
I don't doubt your wisdom, Richard, but chrome plating is a chemical process - very little heat involved. Unlikely that the metal's strength would be compromised in the process.

read about hydrogen embrittlement:

http://www.duro-chrome.com/docs/article.pdf
 
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 11:13 AM
  #96  
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Maybe this is helpful:

My '03 FXDL uses H-D #3737A bolts (7/16-14 x 2.25). The better ARP bolt is #6432250 (12pt/Black) in a 5-pack and above SAE 8. Option of SS bolt.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 11:38 AM
  #97  
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Aren't there pulley bushings that can wear and cause the pulley to torque off parallel?

Thought a buddy of mine said recently on his Street Glide that his pulley bushings were worn, causing play in the pulley, which left untreated can cause issues. He got that message from a dealership so take it for what it's worth...
 
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 11:46 AM
  #98  
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Have an '06 SG and this thread makes me pretty damn uncomfortable!

Sounds like I should replace them.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 12:35 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by por2gezo
IT HAPPENED TO ME !!! All 5 bolts .... snapped ! ... lucky for me ... the pully came lose in my driveway ! after getting home from work !

1000 miles after I followed everyones instructions on getting NEW bolts and using Lots of Locktight ...

How do I now get these bolts out of my wheel ?
What led to you replacing them, did they fail before?
You used New H-D bolts that come with the sealer applied? Torqued to 65ft lbs? Really hard to see why they would fail. I have never had a failure after Removing and replacing the pulley, new OEM bolts with sealer with a slight amount of additional blue lock tight.

To get them out of the wheel:
Block the wheel up to keep it stable and the rotor side from damage.
Carefully center punch the broken fasteners, you need a deep punch mark as close to the center as possible. Using a transfer punch the correct size to locate the center is best.
I would start with a drill no larger than 3/16 and chuck it up as far as you can get it so you don't break a drill. Use a stub drill to start the first hole and if you can not get through then finish with a jobber length drill.
Use some cutting oil, take your time to drill straight and drill All The Way Through The Broken Fasteners!!!!
Incrementally increase the drill size to where you can use the largest size extractor.
I would not use heat it will probably ruin the finish on the hub.
Use a little penetrating lube, let sit a little while and then carefully extract the broken fasteners, don't force it, the last thing you want is to break the extractor off!
Clean the threads and chase them with a thread chaser or a Roll Tap, not a cut tap
Personally I would drill the threads out and and install helicoil flush with the hub where the coil is just below the face of the hub so it does not start to pull out.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 05:56 PM
  #100  
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Great, I really needed one more thing to be paranoid about. Anybody have the correct bolt size handy, so I can add it to my "things I need to keep on hand" list?
 
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