Sheared Off Rear Pulley Bolts
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 351
Likes: 2
A couple weeks ago, I was leaving work when some clanking in the rear sounded, then no forward power. Rolled to a stop to find that I had sheared/broken all 5 rear pulley bolts...the studs broken off in the rim. Got some buddies to help me get the bike home and rolled the bike in the shop. The next day, I removed the studs from the wheel (fun), and got some new hardware from a local bike shop. The rim was damaged when the bolts broke...threads are stripped in the rim about 1/2" deep on each hole and the lip that the pulley sits on was damaged as well. Here is a pic of the damaged wheel. Is there a way to fix it, or am I about to get a new set of rims? I have it mounted back on the bike with the new hardware, but it loosens gradually...had to tighten 'em up with more loctite today.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
I think the wheel is still usable except getting the bearing out and I think you should replace those bearings. Replacing the bearing may help straighten out the bent lip, otherwise you could grind/shape a piece of steel/aluminum to match the radius and carefully straighten the lip of the bore. The hub pulley bolt holes are counter bored and that is why it appears there are threads missing and in my opinion why the bolts do shear. I would say if your bolts have loosened up you did not use the right bolts and/or properly torque them to 65lbs, there is no reason I can see why you would lose clamping force and if the threads were damaged I would suspect they would pull out under torque. If the bolts have loosened up you need to replace them ASAP or they will definitely shear again since you have most assuredly flexed them. Make sure you replace them with the Factory H-D bolts with the lock compound already applied and the OEM bolts are grade 8. If you ever find a pulley bolt loose you need to replace them all ASAP. In my opinion if the bolts had a longer shoulder that engaged the counter bore or the threads were flush with the hub face there would be no problems. You could drill out the hub for threaded inserts and install them one thread down from flush with the hub face and you would have less flexing of the bolts due to the counter bore. Everyone I seem to see are broken right where the counter bore stops.
The stock bolts, unless they were changed after 05 by the MoCo, are Grade 5, this info is available in the parts manual.
The bolts that are meant to be in there need to have the shoulder down inside the wheel so that the initial contact with the wheel is not at the threads, this is why the wheels are counter bored, it gives it added strength at the critical point. That is why you should not use bolts that are threaded all the way.
If you change your spacer it affects this fit, and may either not allow them to fully seat properly and tighten, or may not allow the shoulder to rest in the counter bore.
Many aftermarket pulley and bolt kits that I have seen include the wrong bolts, too short and/or threaded all the way. This was what the indy that I used installed on mine and they did not hold.
While I cannot say for sure, I think the chroming process weakens these bolts, which is why I will not use chromed bolts in this application. This may also be why formike56 only had 2 out of 12 pass the grade test he conducted.
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee area
I don't doubt your wisdom, Richard, but chrome plating is a chemical process - very little heat involved. Unlikely that the metal's strength would be compromised in the process.
Last edited by Grind; May 14, 2011 at 12:37 AM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
As I said I was not positive about that, but in order for something to be chrome plated, does it not have to be slightly smaller to begin with, so it ends up the correct size? Just wondering.
Road Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 876
Likes: 1
From: Gloucester County, Southern NJ
I had the same issue but I caught it in time. All but one bolt had backed out a little. One backed out just enough to rub the frame (which I heard). I pulled into a local Pep Boys Auto Shop and the mechanics let me borrow a few tools (I thought that was very neighborly of them!) to fix it enough to get home.
Once I was home I pulled each bolt on at a time, applied some locktite, torqued them to spec, and marked each bolt. They have not budged in almost a year.
Once I was home I pulled each bolt on at a time, applied some locktite, torqued them to spec, and marked each bolt. They have not budged in almost a year.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,606
Likes: 29
From: Baytown Tx.
I think some of you are sticking your head in the sand. This problem is WAY more common on 06-later Dyna models than on anything else. It's a bad design that Harley should be addressing with a recall. The fact that the bolts they are using are probably made in China, where quality control is nonexistent, probably doesn't help.
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 351
Likes: 2
I had the same issue but I caught it in time. All but one bolt had backed out a little. One backed out just enough to rub the frame (which I heard). I pulled into a local Pep Boys Auto Shop and the mechanics let me borrow a few tools (I thought that was very neighborly of them!) to fix it enough to get home.
Once I was home I pulled each bolt on at a time, applied some locktite, torqued them to spec, and marked each bolt. They have not budged in almost a year.
Once I was home I pulled each bolt on at a time, applied some locktite, torqued them to spec, and marked each bolt. They have not budged in almost a year.
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 351
Likes: 2
Couple of points that I discovered when this happened to me...
The stock bolts, unless they were changed after 05 by the MoCo, are Grade 5, this info is available in the parts manual.
The bolts that are meant to be in there need to have the shoulder down inside the wheel so that the initial contact with the wheel is not at the threads, this is why the wheels are counter bored, it gives it added strength at the critical point. That is why you should not use bolts that are threaded all the way.
If you change your spacer it affects this fit, and may either not allow them to fully seat properly and tighten, or may not allow the shoulder to rest in the counter bore.
Many aftermarket pulley and bolt kits that I have seen include the wrong bolts, too short and/or threaded all the way. This was what the indy that I used installed on mine and they did not hold.
While I cannot say for sure, I think the chroming process weakens these bolts, which is why I will not use chromed bolts in this application. This may also be why formike56 only had 2 out of 12 pass the grade test he conducted.
The stock bolts, unless they were changed after 05 by the MoCo, are Grade 5, this info is available in the parts manual.
The bolts that are meant to be in there need to have the shoulder down inside the wheel so that the initial contact with the wheel is not at the threads, this is why the wheels are counter bored, it gives it added strength at the critical point. That is why you should not use bolts that are threaded all the way.
If you change your spacer it affects this fit, and may either not allow them to fully seat properly and tighten, or may not allow the shoulder to rest in the counter bore.
Many aftermarket pulley and bolt kits that I have seen include the wrong bolts, too short and/or threaded all the way. This was what the indy that I used installed on mine and they did not hold.
While I cannot say for sure, I think the chroming process weakens these bolts, which is why I will not use chromed bolts in this application. This may also be why formike56 only had 2 out of 12 pass the grade test he conducted.
Need to separate pre '06 from '06 up too.
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my bolts where torqued and loc tited to spec... they where re used (i had taken the pulley off about a year ago) and re used them when i did hte coating work on the wheel... they sheered off... now i do not use HD bolts ordered new ones though Mcmaster car... was a mess!!! i would not shave off the lip file it down or have a machine shop touch it up... i made new sleeves for mine in the shop thank god i have buddies that a master machinests... saved my *** on this one!
you can see it was a sheer
tools for the sleeve
done
you can see it was a sheer
tools for the sleeve
done
