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Sheared Off Rear Pulley Bolts

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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 07:34 PM
  #111  
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dynabobster
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Originally Posted by mud
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I don't remember now.
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maybe try the telephone.

.... http://arp-bolts.com/

1 800 826 3045

if you download their catalog it is way easier to navigate

pages 10 - 24 are well worth the read.

and from Smokey Yunick on page 98..
Thanks
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 08:12 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by p51bombay
And lets not forget a new pulley - hard to believe anyone would suggest reusing that wheel, repairing it will only be a band aid until the next time it fails (much sooner) which could hurt (or worse) if it happens at the wrong moment - both the wheel and the pulley belong in the scrap pile.
could make a sweet table base! lol
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 10:48 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by p51bombay
And lets not forget a new pulley - hard to believe anyone would suggest reusing that wheel, repairing it will only be a band aid until the next time it fails (much sooner) which could hurt (or worse) if it happens at the wrong moment - both the wheel and the pulley belong in the scrap pile.
The wheel looks a lot better than JRK5892's did and he successfully repaired his. As long as the wheel is true and the hub face and the lip the pulley locates on is serviceable, there is no reason you can not repair the wheel. I would state that the hub should be drilled and fitted with helicoils since there may be damage to the threads and simply cleaning them up might leave the thread clearances too great and possibly contribute to another failure. By the looks of his wheel it does not appear they came loose and elongated the threads, looks like they simply snapped off at the transition of counter bore and threads and the face of the hub look pretty good, to each his own. I would definitely replace the bearings!
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 01:13 AM
  #114  
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The bores where the un-threaded portions of the bolts register have been buggered and are out of tolerance, now; no amount of Heli-Coil-ing will fix that. It can be Mickey Mouse'd but should be replaced.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 02:28 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by lo-rider
The bores where the un-threaded portions of the bolts register have been buggered and are out of tolerance, now; no amount of Heli-Coil-ing will fix that. It can be Mickey Mouse'd but should be replaced.
And the counter bores are/were significant in what way, nothing located off of them? Even if they are out of tolerance for a helicoil if you set the coil where the original threads began then you are where you were originally from the factory.
Actually, if you reamed two of the counter bores and two of the pulley bores to fit locating dowels like those on a bell housing you might solve the problem.
 

Last edited by dynabobster; Jul 15, 2012 at 02:35 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 02:37 PM
  #116  
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It has absolutely nothing to do w/ the Heli-Coil. The un-threaded portion of the bolts should bear directly on the un-threaded portion of the hole, which it can no longer do because the holes are no longer round.

Originally Posted by dynabobster
...if you reamed two of the counter bores and two of the pulley bores to fit locating dowels like those on a bell housing you might solve the problem.
This falls under the heading: Mickey Mouse-ing.
 

Last edited by lo-rider; Jul 15, 2012 at 02:40 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 06:44 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by lo-rider
It has absolutely nothing to do w/ the Heli-Coil. The un-threaded portion of the bolts should bear directly on the un-threaded portion of the hole, which it can no longer do because the holes are no longer round.
Well you would be right, except that "The un-threaded portion of the bolts should bear directly on the un-threaded portion of the hole" doesn't do that straight from the factory!
The counter bore is larger than the major diameter of the thread and the factory bolts have no shoulder and even the shoulder on the bolt that is pictured is smaller in diameter than the counter bore in the hub, so, there in lies the problem from the start!
And I have not found a bolt that has a shoulder that will fully engage the counter bore and also not bottom out in the hub before it is properly torqued.

In my opinion, It is the shearing action from the torque on the pulley, precisely because the bolt is NOT supported in the counter bore, that causes these to fail. Especially if the installation is half assed.

If you know what your are doing and know the proper procedures for the removal of broken fasteners and thread repair then the repair I recommended is no worse than it was coming from the factory and I would stand behind the repair for myself and I would not do anything that would put myself or anyone else in harms way.

That said, it is also my opinion that the best solution would be a stud installed into the hub that has a shoulder that engages both the counter bore of the hub and the bolt hole on the pulley.


This falls under the heading: Mickey Mouse-ing.
Mickey Mouse straight from H-D!
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 07:00 PM
  #118  
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The Heli-Coil is well established for thread repair in many cases including this one. But unless the bolts shoulders take the shear loads, it will just fail again.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 07:59 PM
  #119  
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I am in agreement w/ dynabobbster...

I've pondered this one a lot...why is the counter-bore a generous clearance hole. This condition also exists @ the upper shock bolt (I've sheared this one once). The support solution for each would be a sleeve sized correctly.

Specific to sheared pulley bolts, I'm in the camp that riding style likely plays a part. Throwing big shifts, and even more importantly, blowing big downshifts puts a lot of force on the pulley. This is the stuff that can scissor cranks, too.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 09:58 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by lo-rider
The Heli-Coil is well established for thread repair in many cases including this one. But unless the bolts shoulders take the shear loads, it will just fail again.
But the OEM bolt does not have a shoulder, in fact the thread appears to be rolled and the un-threaded portion is smaller in diameter than the major diameter of the thread, almost looks like a torque to yield and the aftermarket bolts that I have found still do not engage the counter bore?

Again, I have never had a problem with the OEM bolts and I have swapped them out several times.
Never the less, I do see something that I feel can contribute to this problem and that is the point you are raising and it is an inherent flaw in the design, at least in my opinion.
If you look at the way the hub is machined you would think, at least I do, it was machined for a stud and I think that would be the ideal solution.
 
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