Sheared Off Rear Pulley Bolts
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I don't remember now.
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maybe try the telephone.
.... http://arp-bolts.com/
1 800 826 3045
if you download their catalog it is way easier to navigate
pages 10 - 24 are well worth the read.
and from Smokey Yunick on page 98..
Actually, if you reamed two of the counter bores and two of the pulley bores to fit locating dowels like those on a bell housing you might solve the problem.
Last edited by dynabobster; Jul 15, 2012 at 02:35 PM.
This falls under the heading: Mickey Mouse-ing.
Last edited by lo-rider; Jul 15, 2012 at 02:40 PM.
The counter bore is larger than the major diameter of the thread and the factory bolts have no shoulder and even the shoulder on the bolt that is pictured is smaller in diameter than the counter bore in the hub, so, there in lies the problem from the start!
And I have not found a bolt that has a shoulder that will fully engage the counter bore and also not bottom out in the hub before it is properly torqued.
In my opinion, It is the shearing action from the torque on the pulley, precisely because the bolt is NOT supported in the counter bore, that causes these to fail. Especially if the installation is half assed.
If you know what your are doing and know the proper procedures for the removal of broken fasteners and thread repair then the repair I recommended is no worse than it was coming from the factory and I would stand behind the repair for myself and I would not do anything that would put myself or anyone else in harms way.
That said, it is also my opinion that the best solution would be a stud installed into the hub that has a shoulder that engages both the counter bore of the hub and the bolt hole on the pulley.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
I've pondered this one a lot...why is the counter-bore a generous clearance hole. This condition also exists @ the upper shock bolt (I've sheared this one once). The support solution for each would be a sleeve sized correctly.
Specific to sheared pulley bolts, I'm in the camp that riding style likely plays a part. Throwing big shifts, and even more importantly, blowing big downshifts puts a lot of force on the pulley. This is the stuff that can scissor cranks, too.
Again, I have never had a problem with the OEM bolts and I have swapped them out several times.
Never the less, I do see something that I feel can contribute to this problem and that is the point you are raising and it is an inherent flaw in the design, at least in my opinion.
If you look at the way the hub is machined you would think, at least I do, it was machined for a stud and I think that would be the ideal solution.


