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I've pondered this one a lot...why is the counter-bore a generous clearance hole. This condition also exists @ the upper shock bolt (I've sheared this one once). The support solution for each would be a sleeve sized correctly.
Specific to sheared pulley bolts, I'm in the camp that riding style likely plays a part. Throwing big shifts, and even more importantly, blowing big downshifts puts a lot of force on the pulley. This is the stuff that can scissor cranks, too.
Hmmm,, maybe I should calm down when I ride. Sometimes I trend to treat it like its a sport bike with a slipper clutch.. Downshifting hard before corners and stop lights, sometimes the wheel chirps.. Great info in this thread..
Sorry if I'm not expressing it well. It would seem that a true shoulder bolt (whose shoulder was larger than the threads) would be a better option, fitted closely so that all shear forces were taken by the shoulder, and such that the bottom of the shoulder always cleared the bottom of the counterbore.
Originally Posted by Dirknar
...Downshifting hard before corners and stop lights, sometimes the wheel chirps...
You must learn to downshift at the right time and synchronize your downshifts with blipping the throttle so you don't wear your tires prematurely or worse. You're WAY over-stressing your whole driveline.
Last edited by lo-rider; Jul 15, 2012 at 10:37 PM.
Sorry if I'm not expressing it well. It would seem that a true shoulder bolt (whose shoulder was larger than the threads) would be a better option, fitted closely so that all shear forces were taken by the shoulder, and such that the bottom of the shoulder always cleared the bottom of the counterbore.
Are the threads in the hub deep enough to allow for the hole to be drilled to accept a shoulder bolt? Hypothetically speaking.
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