As many bikes that are out there this is not happening to all and it also seems a majority of those failing are due to other factors, like using the wrong bolts or chrome bolts or a chrome cover and usually after the pulley has been removed and re-installed or when some one found them loose and just re-torqued them, etc. If you find you can tighten the pulley bolts during an inspection then the damage is done and they need to be replaced yesterday! Yes, some have just plain failed and it is my opinion that it is due to the counter bores in the hub, if you look at the pictures just posted, that is where they broke. A bolt or stud with a shoulder that engages the counter bore would probably solve this problem!

 

Possible or remove and retorque each season with fresh locktite. I totally dig my 06 streetbob, had insurance replace my rims and tires after pothole damage so my guess is the stealership got it right or they would be on the hook for that kinda failure.

 

That sounds viable, some bolts you can retorque several times safely but its also easy to mark them and check too. Plus with them all mucked up with locktite better off replacing if removing.

 

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first, for future reference - you do not need "lots of locktite"

bolts this size - 2 drops
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as for "I followed everyones instructions on getting NEW bolts "
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from earlier in this thread...............
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I stand by my advice to stay away from homedickhole etc,

go with a *high quality* fastener.

such as - ARP
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Also the bolts that broke don't look like the OEMs I use and appear to have Chrome washers?

Do those ARP fasteners happen to have the shoulder extend past the pulley/ sprocket and into the counter bore?
ARP on line is a pain to try and figure out a proper bolt, seems all their fasteners have a specific application and you can't just look up a bolt/stud with specific features you want or that may work for your application.

Personally I have never had any problem with the OEM fasteners and I have replaced them several times swapping out my wheels, but my engine is also stock so I am not overly taxing them either.

 

Don't start hyperventilating. These few cases one reads about seem to always involve a highly modified motor, along w/ beating the **** out of it, or an amateur installation w/ lots of paint slathered on everything and giant washers to disengage the questionable bolts' shoulders from their bores.

Not!

Rene--Those tab washers are foolproof if you buy the right bolts. No need to re-torque.

 

New wheel,correct bolts and red permanent loctite.

 

Looks like we all have a new pre-during and after ride check! A quick grab shake and look might prevent a breakdown.

 

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I don't remember now.
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maybe try the telephone.

.... http://arp-bolts.com/

1 800 826 3045

if you download their catalog it is way easier to navigate

pages 10 - 24 are well worth the read.

and from Smokey Yunick on page 98.
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on “little things” to consider.....
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4. Consider the importance in regard to how many exposed
threads are left when fastener is set. Turns out this has a bearing
on necessary torque and ultimate strength of the fastener.
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and on "Examining the “Over-Kill” fallacy".....
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If there’s one thing I’ve heard over and over from visitors to
trade shows and races it’s,“Your fasteners are great. I’m not having
any problems but I’m being told, by your competitors, that ARP is overkill
and therefore I’m wasting some money when I buy ARP pan bolts,
manifold bolts or just about everything except for certain critical
engine, drive train or suspension fasteners.” My first instinct is to
say they are full of _ _ _ _.
But the subject is worth talking about. Cost is an important
consideration when you choose a particular vendor’s offering. Still,
if you use lesser quality fasteners and they were not subject to many
assembly and disassembly cycles, by people with varying skills
from professional to rank amateur. Maybe, just maybe, you could
make a case for minimum grade fasteners that are over designed,
size-wise, to allow a reasonably safe application for conservative
usage.
Now, lets get back in our world. The real world. We can expect
the engines and vehicles to be leaned on, from a little to beyond any
sensible extreme. We can expect 10 or more assembly/disassembly
cycles. We can expect over-torquing, which will leave the fastener
looking 100% but actually in a condition RED, semi-failed mode.
We can expect some fasteners that are minimal in quality to end
up in a critical, high-stress area. We can’t expect everyone to be
able to look at a fastener and determine its quality by looks, or
even by markings. So we leave ourselves wide open for expensive
and possibly dangerous results. For the amount of money saved by
“type rating” every fastener’s capability, and consideration of a long
range view of the best mix of customers, I recommend all fasteners
be of a quality that does exceed the minimum standards.
end of quote from Smokey Yunick.
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from day one it's been pedal on the bellhousing for me.

I had zero issues with the HD fasteners.
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And lets not forget a new pulley - hard to believe anyone would suggest reusing that wheel, repairing it will only be a band aid until the next time it fails (much sooner) which could hurt (or worse) if it happens at the wrong moment - both the wheel and the pulley belong in the scrap pile.