Project FXDXT is underway
As always I am watching this thread to learn tips and tricks. Keep us posted on the chin fairing mods required.
Which chin fairing do you have? I know you mentioned it somewhere but I cant remember now.
Any tips on the rear install? Remove rear master cylinder etc?
Which chin fairing do you have? I know you mentioned it somewhere but I cant remember now.
Any tips on the rear install? Remove rear master cylinder etc?
Your wish is my command 
I used a post here where the OP did the same thing with the oil cooler. I wanted a 10 row because well a 120R... Its mounted with 2 through holes drilled in the front bracket and 4-20 bolts. The original post used tapped non-through holes. I decided the leverage on the bracket was a bit much for that so I used through holes. It doesn't vibrate while running. Sturdy and the engine runs much cooler in high temps and traffic.
Sorry - no help on the true track install, I had the shop do it. Only took them about a hour though. Dyna's are a bit rougher that touring installs I hear. Typically a shop will not do dyna's while you wait like touring frames.

I used a post here where the OP did the same thing with the oil cooler. I wanted a 10 row because well a 120R... Its mounted with 2 through holes drilled in the front bracket and 4-20 bolts. The original post used tapped non-through holes. I decided the leverage on the bracket was a bit much for that so I used through holes. It doesn't vibrate while running. Sturdy and the engine runs much cooler in high temps and traffic.
Sorry - no help on the true track install, I had the shop do it. Only took them about a hour though. Dyna's are a bit rougher that touring installs I hear. Typically a shop will not do dyna's while you wait like touring frames.
Last edited by PhotoRider; Apr 19, 2013 at 12:22 PM.
I'm going tog et an oil cooler that mounts on the down tubes. I am not sure what kind of chin fairing I have as it came ont eh bike when I got it. If I get a chance I will get the wheel on and take this thing home for the weekend. I'll get a few pics without the fairing. I think it looks pretty cool.
But I am sure I'll miss the wind protection at 5am. LOL. Painted picked up teh fairing today so I should avhe it back next week something.
Photorider, your setup looks pretty cool with the oil cooler on the bottom.
For the rear piece I took the rear shocks off and lifted the swing arm out of the way as opposed to messing with the rear master cylinder.
But I am sure I'll miss the wind protection at 5am. LOL. Painted picked up teh fairing today so I should avhe it back next week something.
Photorider, your setup looks pretty cool with the oil cooler on the bottom.
For the rear piece I took the rear shocks off and lifted the swing arm out of the way as opposed to messing with the rear master cylinder.
Yes, I had issues finding a 10 row that would work and didn't want a chin fairing. The touring down tube 10 row will work with the mounts for the smaller one I heard. I need to get stainless steel lines - need to find black one (why I didn't go that route initially).
Your wish is my command 
I used a post here where the OP did the same thing with the oil cooler. I wanted a 10 row because well a 120R... Its mounted with 2 through holes drilled in the front bracket and 4-20 bolts. The original post used tapped non-through holes. I decided the leverage on the bracket was a bit much for that so I used through holes. It doesn't vibrate while running. Sturdy and the engine runs much cooler in high temps and traffic.
Sorry - no help on the true track install, I had the shop do it. Only took them about a hour though. Dyna's are a bit rougher that touring installs I hear. Typically a shop will not do dyna's while you wait like touring frames.

I used a post here where the OP did the same thing with the oil cooler. I wanted a 10 row because well a 120R... Its mounted with 2 through holes drilled in the front bracket and 4-20 bolts. The original post used tapped non-through holes. I decided the leverage on the bracket was a bit much for that so I used through holes. It doesn't vibrate while running. Sturdy and the engine runs much cooler in high temps and traffic.
Sorry - no help on the true track install, I had the shop do it. Only took them about a hour though. Dyna's are a bit rougher that touring installs I hear. Typically a shop will not do dyna's while you wait like touring frames.
just have not had the time to correct it.
Your wish is my command 
I used a post here where the OP did the same thing with the oil cooler. I wanted a 10 row because well a 120R... Its mounted with 2 through holes drilled in the front bracket and 4-20 bolts. The original post used tapped non-through holes. I decided the leverage on the bracket was a bit much for that so I used through holes. It doesn't vibrate while running. Sturdy and the engine runs much cooler in high temps and traffic.
Sorry - no help on the true track install, I had the shop do it. Only took them about a hour though. Dyna's are a bit rougher that touring installs I hear. Typically a shop will not do dyna's while you wait like touring frames.

I used a post here where the OP did the same thing with the oil cooler. I wanted a 10 row because well a 120R... Its mounted with 2 through holes drilled in the front bracket and 4-20 bolts. The original post used tapped non-through holes. I decided the leverage on the bracket was a bit much for that so I used through holes. It doesn't vibrate while running. Sturdy and the engine runs much cooler in high temps and traffic.
Sorry - no help on the true track install, I had the shop do it. Only took them about a hour though. Dyna's are a bit rougher that touring installs I hear. Typically a shop will not do dyna's while you wait like touring frames.
My preliminary thoughts on the Tru Track are that the bike feel s really "tight." The steering and handling tightened up so much that it feels like it handles like a race bike. I am sure I am going a bit overboard, but wow it makes a huge difference.
I also spaced my shocks (JRI) properly so that they sit straight up and down as they are designed to and they are so much smoother. My fault for not setting them up properly. Live and learn. I'm heading out for some canyon and mountain roads bright and early to test out this new setup.
I also spaced my shocks (JRI) properly so that they sit straight up and down as they are designed to and they are so much smoother. My fault for not setting them up properly. Live and learn. I'm heading out for some canyon and mountain roads bright and early to test out this new setup.



