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Interesting info here... I have had it pop up a few times as well. Sometimes on a hot start, other times just at random. What'll usually happen is when I hit the start switch it'll turn over than pause for a second and flash v inner, then it will start. Other times I'll have to take my finger off the start, wait a sec, then try again and it'll fire up. I was able to replicate the problem a couple times by turning the ignition on, flicking the switch to 'run' then switching it back off (never starting the bike, just flicking the killswitch) If I cycled the kill switch twice, without starting, when I went to start it, it would flash the v inner code, then I'd have to wait a sec before starting it up. But each time I've ever seen it, its always started up either right then, or the next try. I dont have any other codes, and battery health checks out.
Just another tid bit to add to the mystery...
I had the problem as well on my 2012 FLD.It happened in the fall just after I installed the Heritage Apes on her. I cleared the code, put her on a battery tender and so far (knock on wood) no V INNER msg. I usually only use the battery tender in the winter months when my bikes (Metrics, this is my first Harley) sat without being ridden. A buddy of mine thats been riding Harley for years said he keeps hi on the tender year round. Maybe thats the problem, dont know.
I've encountered this problem and dealt with it for a long time on my '13 Super Glide Custom. I have around 18.5k miles and just recently I've also had problems with high idling on hot start ups. Last weekend I was on a ride and my engine died on the highway. After removing the battery cover I found the negative battery terminal was melted. My girlfriend and I were wearing heated gear and I thought maybe we were overloading the battery. Then someone at Harley told me a loose battery connection can cause excessive heat and that can happen. I was also told that would explain my engine issues that day.
I put the bike on a tender and found it was running perfectly for the next three days. No engine malfunction, and no V INERR on start up. On day three it was left off a tender and all the symptoms returned, minus the engine failure. I concluded it was a battery issue and bought a new battery. I also read several threads about the V INERR code and saw that many people think it is associated with a bad battery cell, or poor connection somewhere. It's been a few days and so far there has been normal engine performance and no V INERR error. I'm not sure if the new battery took care of everything or not, but so far so good.
V INERR is short for Voltage INput ERRor. It's a general diagnostic code indicationg the voltage to the ECM is out of range, for whatever reason. What the range is I don't know. Since it's just a general measurement at the ECM the actual problem could be the at the battery, charging system, wiring/connections, or the ECM itself.
I had the code popping up randomly last summer, two or three times a week. I knew the battery and charging were good, and battery and ground connections were good also. Reseated all the fuses, relays and connector at the ECM. Never saw the problem after. So I assume mine was just an oxidation problem on some connection, somewhere.
Edit: with the canbus systems the ECM communicates with all control modules, which themselves might have a voltage problem. So you could have more connections to check. In a well designed system the diagnostic code would indicate which module is having the issue, tach, speedo, TSSM, etc.
Last edited by 02fx4dude; Feb 20, 2015 at 07:20 AM.
Do you have a thundermax or other type ECM tuner? Harley should be able to fix the v inner code has to do with ECM Vin and Miles.
I just installed a thundermax that was pre-tuned for my bike. It didn't have the correct VIN format. I entered my VIN and the V inner error code went away.
I do not claim expertise here, but these bike batteries are small. Yes they are 12v but look at their size. Even when parked and turned off your bike is using some battery voltage as all computer controlled vehicles do...so...if you only ride weekly lets say, on weekends etc...you need to keep your bike on a tender. Unless you have grounding issues a tender will keep your battery toped off so to speak. Heck tenders cost about 30 bucks and its the right way to go. If you ride daily more than say 30 miles at 60 mph, you will probably be ok but a tender really is a must for computerized bikes.
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