Mounting a Power Vision
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 264
Likes: 2
From: USA
Mounting a Power Vision
I picked up a tech mount and was thinking of mounting my Power Vision on my Fatbob bars. Anyone have any tips on routing the wiring back? I'm wondering if I'll have to pull the tank to get the wiring under it.
Anyone mounted a PV to their Dyna?
Anyone mounted a PV to their Dyna?
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 441
Likes: 52
From: Utah
I mounted mine on the left side of the bars. I removed the seat and the bolt on the rear of the gas tank and "lifted" it a little, maybe 4 or 5 inches. Ran the cable along the left side of the frame. Zip tied it to some other cables to hold it. It comes out at the front on the left side between the the tank and the frame.
Sorry but I didn't get any pictures.
Sorry but I didn't get any pictures.
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 69
From: Bay Area, NorCal
I only temporarily mounted my PV-1 to the dash long enough to run through the AutoTune steps several times, then dismounted the unit and boxed it back up.
But there is one tip I can offer: after you pull the fuse panel cover off there is just enough open space in the upper left hand corner to snake the small connector of the PV-1 cable through to the cavity under the seat. Pull all the slack through, then join the PV-1 big connector with the MoCO datalink connector and you're done with that end.
From the seat cavity you should be able to route the PV-1 cable under the tank up to bars where your mount is - you should probably undo the tank bolts and prop it up to give you better access to the underside. Try to hook/loop the PV-1 cable to the existing MoCo wire bundles so that the PV-1 cable doesn't just lay on top of the motor.
Hope it works out for you.
~
But there is one tip I can offer: after you pull the fuse panel cover off there is just enough open space in the upper left hand corner to snake the small connector of the PV-1 cable through to the cavity under the seat. Pull all the slack through, then join the PV-1 big connector with the MoCO datalink connector and you're done with that end.
From the seat cavity you should be able to route the PV-1 cable under the tank up to bars where your mount is - you should probably undo the tank bolts and prop it up to give you better access to the underside. Try to hook/loop the PV-1 cable to the existing MoCo wire bundles so that the PV-1 cable doesn't just lay on top of the motor.
Hope it works out for you.
~
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 264
Likes: 2
From: USA
I only temporarily mounted my PV-1 to the dash long enough to run through the AutoTune steps several times, then dismounted the unit and boxed it back up.
But there is one tip I can offer: after you pull the fuse panel cover off there is just enough open space in the upper left hand corner to snake the small connector of the PV-1 cable through to the cavity under the seat. Pull all the slack through, then join the PV-1 big connector with the MoCO datalink connector and you're done with that end.
From the seat cavity you should be able to route the PV-1 cable under the tank up to bars where your mount is - you should probably undo the tank bolts and prop it up to give you better access to the underside. Try to hook/loop the PV-1 cable to the existing MoCo wire bundles so that the PV-1 cable doesn't just lay on top of the motor.
Hope it works out for you.
~
But there is one tip I can offer: after you pull the fuse panel cover off there is just enough open space in the upper left hand corner to snake the small connector of the PV-1 cable through to the cavity under the seat. Pull all the slack through, then join the PV-1 big connector with the MoCO datalink connector and you're done with that end.
From the seat cavity you should be able to route the PV-1 cable under the tank up to bars where your mount is - you should probably undo the tank bolts and prop it up to give you better access to the underside. Try to hook/loop the PV-1 cable to the existing MoCo wire bundles so that the PV-1 cable doesn't just lay on top of the motor.
Hope it works out for you.
~
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 264
Likes: 2
From: USA
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Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 633
Likes: 1
From: Southern Indiana
What others have said, is what I did. Not tank removal. There is a cable tray running down the left side length of the frame beside the tank. I laid it in there to keep it from rubbing or burning on anything. It came out under the tank and I ran it over to the clutch cable to be zip-tied. I wasn't sure I would keep it on there, but I like the features (engine temp mostly. Throttle position, and fuel computer is cool too)
Used a Ram Mount
Used a Ram Mount
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